-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
blew out a battery capacity tester. where to start?
- Thread starter brandnewb
- Start date
btw, this capactator tester can't handle anymore than 185 watts. If I get a bigger more badass mosfet can I then draw more power assuming it is only the mosfet that is blown?
My battery pack theoretically can deliver 48V * 280A = 13.44Kw. I'd love to run a cap test at that power and see if the pack can run for an hour before reaching 40V
And heat up the house for no good reason in the process
My battery pack theoretically can deliver 48V * 280A = 13.44Kw. I'd love to run a cap test at that power and see if the pack can run for an hour before reaching 40V
And heat up the house for no good reason in the process yeah never mind, I figured after a good night sleep that I'll have to replace all the components along the whole path from the battery source leads + and - and get an insane 48V dc immersible heater. That is something for when I am a bit less newb
I must apologize but I really do not know. I am really new to electronics and everything related. Hopefully someone else knows
Oh. I thought YOU were the one who had removed the component from the board. Am I mistaken? I had mentioned it in an earlier comment way up there somewhere. ^^^^^
Oh, when I looked at the picture you supplied of the component off of the board, I thought you did fine. The board just needed a bit of cleanup and the new component would have soldered back in. No worries about the soldering though, we all had to learn how at some point. So are you going to try and source the components and replace them, or are you done with it now?yes I removed it, but one can desolder without knowledge of what the component is and how it works to be able to desolder it. and truth be told I did a sloppy job
My best guess is that that hole aids in heat dissipation. And yes I will continue testing components and replace those that are blown
The "hole" I am talking about appeared to be by the top most pin of the component in your first picture of the the then circled (squared) photo that was edited by someone else (Mr Kapp) up there ^^^. If you can take a close up pic of the larger of the three components (the IRFP260) of the back side (not the side with the component numbers/letters) and post it, maybe I can tell then.
I guess you are talking about different holes, are you?
@H2814D mentions the spot that is barely visible in your first picture in the top left corner of the mosfet. That one may, on closer inspection, be a hole in the case where excess heat punched the case to vent hot gases. One will need a close up to inspect that point in more detail.
@brandnewb mentions the big hole in the center of the mosfet's tab. That one is a mounting hole to secure the component to a heatsink by a screw.
@H2814D mentions the spot that is barely visible in your first picture in the top left corner of the mosfet. That one may, on closer inspection, be a hole in the case where excess heat punched the case to vent hot gases. One will need a close up to inspect that point in more detail.
@brandnewb mentions the big hole in the center of the mosfet's tab. That one is a mounting hole to secure the component to a heatsink by a screw.
I agree. And that component is very easy to source, so I don't want him giving up too soon.
can I post a link to what I bought or is that breaking forum rules? Anyway i'll list them for now
5Pcs--IRFZ44N--49A/55V
5Pcs--IRF510N--5.6A/100V
5Pcs--IRF520N--9.7A/100V
5Pcs--IRF530N--17A/100V
5Pcs--IRF540N--33A/100V
5Pcs--IRF640N--18A/200V
5Pcs--IRF740--10A/400V
5Pcs--IRF840--8A/500V
5Pcs--IRF3205--110A/55V
I've got half a mind to start with the IRF3205 lol. assuming the 2 schotkkies are still working perhaps I can then crank up the amps a bit more
I did not find a IRF260 that would be here tomorrow so I am hoping I can use one of the above. Should the tester not show signs of life I'll start with the skotkkys to see if they might be blown as well.
5Pcs--IRFZ44N--49A/55V
5Pcs--IRF510N--5.6A/100V
5Pcs--IRF520N--9.7A/100V
5Pcs--IRF530N--17A/100V
5Pcs--IRF540N--33A/100V
5Pcs--IRF640N--18A/200V
5Pcs--IRF740--10A/400V
5Pcs--IRF840--8A/500V
5Pcs--IRF3205--110A/55V
I've got half a mind to start with the IRF3205 lol. assuming the 2 schotkkies are still working perhaps I can then crank up the amps a bit more
I did not find a IRF260 that would be here tomorrow so I am hoping I can use one of the above. Should the tester not show signs of life I'll start with the skotkkys to see if they might be blown as well.
ahh no, that would fry things again as a fully charged battery bank is 58V. or is pushing the limit a bit by 3 volts something seasoned board builders do from time to time and get away with it?
Most seasoned board builders use components well within their ratings, for reliability.
I think I would have replaced the component that tested bad with the same replacement to make sure the thing worked again, before I started messing with anything else. You do know the original was an "IRFP260," right? I haven't checked compatibility, but all of your components you listed are minus the "P".can I post a link to what I bought or is that breaking forum rules? Anyway i'll list them for now
5Pcs--IRFZ44N--49A/55V
5Pcs--IRF510N--5.6A/100V
5Pcs--IRF520N--9.7A/100V
5Pcs--IRF530N--17A/100V
5Pcs--IRF540N--33A/100V
5Pcs--IRF640N--18A/200V
5Pcs--IRF740--10A/400V
5Pcs--IRF840--8A/500V
5Pcs--IRF3205--110A/55V
I've got half a mind to start with the IRF3205 lol. assuming the 2 schotkkies are still working perhaps I can then crank up the amps a bit more
I did not find a IRF260 that would be here tomorrow so I am hoping I can use one of the above. Should the tester not show signs of life I'll start with the skotkkys to see if they might be blown as well.
Similar threads
