Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Bizarre TV project/question

well.........I really didn't think it would be this involved. I just
thought I could take it off of the board and extend it out about 30".
I can't believe its this difficult.
 
B

b

[email protected] ha escrito:
well.........I really didn't think it would be this involved. I just
thought I could take it off of the board and extend it out about 30".
I can't believe its this difficult.

it shouldnt be. it is as complicated or as simple as you choose to make
it.
start with the simple first- just get a length of the screened cable
mentioned earlier ( to avoid the risk of parasitic interference on your
ir line), and solder your ir detector to one end and the other to the
tv chassis pcb. worry about all the other stuff like optical solutions
later, IF that doesnt work!
good luck and post your results please! ;-)
B.
 
T

**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**

It is really not that difficult, what is critical is:

1) The TV "might" have a hot chassis, so be careful nothing you extend
outside the game cabinet has any continuity to either of the tabs on the
AC power cord. Check with an ohmmeter for "leakage" using the megohm
scale. This includes any mounting screws from your brackets which
penetrate the exterior of the game cabinet.

2) The IR sensor is a sensitive circuit, once you locate the active
terminals versus the ground terminal (case) of the IR sensor module, use
shielded cable for the active and the shield for the ground return.
Route this wire away from the high voltage and CRT. Remember to replace
the red IR filter over the module when you install it.

3) As an option you could mount the remote control inside the cabinet
and remote a pushbutton from the AV switch outside the cabinet. You
would have to remember to change the battery once in a while.

well.........I really didn't think it would be this involved. I just
thought I could take it off of the board and extend it out about 30".
I can't believe its this difficult.

--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"©

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P
 
I don't feel much further along on this than when I first posted. I
think that I'll pick up some mic cable on tuesday and just give it a
go. I was a good life!
 
tmp83010ao.jpg


drivercabinetpictures0014xx.jpg


if you guys are able to open these pictures, maybe they can help?
 
A

Arfa Daily

I don't feel much further along on this than when I first posted. I
think that I'll pick up some mic cable on tuesday and just give it a
go. I was a good life!

That's a shame. I think it's all getting over complicated now. As a couple
of us said at the top of the thread, what you are trying to do is quite
straightforward, and if you keep the infra red receiver tucked away in your
console, represents no danger. There is no danger whatsoever in doing the
job either, as long as you make sure that the TV chassis is completely
disconnected from the wall supply when you do the job.

Get your mic cable from Radio Shack. It is called single screen twin. That
just means that it is a twin cable ie two seperate insulated wires,
surrounded by a woven wire shield or screen, the whole lot then being
encased in a round plastic jacket. The idea of the screen is that being
grounded, it forms an electrostatic shield around the two internal wires,
and protects them from interference pickup. There are a lot of high
intensity electromagnetic and electric fields in a TV receiver, and just
extending the IR receiver with open wires, could result in erratic
operation. It might not. But likely would.

To prepare the ends of the cable, strip off a half inch of the outer plastic
sheath. This will reveal a copper or silver coloured multiwire shield -
probably a bit like TV coax. Unwrap or unplait this braid, then twist it
into a pigtail. Strip an eighth inch from the ends of the two internal wires
( probably one red and one white ). You now have the three wires that you
need to connect to the IR receiver's three pins and the three vacated print
pads.

You now need to determine which of the three pins is the ground connection.
Looking from the front, it's usually the right pin, but not always. If the
module has a pair of metal wings soldered into the board at either side,
like you say, they may well be grounded, so look for which pin connects to
the same piece of print. Failing this, you'll have to use an ohm meter to
check for a zero reading to something like the tuner can, as someone else
suggested.

Once you've found the ground pin, connect this one to the pigtailed screen
wire. You can slip a bit of sleeving over the pigtail before you solder it
if you like, to make it a bit more like a 'real' wire. Solder the pigtail at
the other end, to the corresponding place on the board, where that pin came
from. Now solder the other two wires to the other two pins. Doesn't matter
which to which, so long as they correspond correctly back at the board end.

As far as making a new IR window goes, you can buy IR sheet plastic, but
it's quite expensive. Best place to get a new window is off the front of an
old remote control. If you haven't got one laying around the house, your
local friendly TV repair shop will have them coming out their ears.

Hope that helps to get it all back into perspective, and helps you to
actually carry out the job. It's easy for those of us who do the work
professionally, to forget that hobbyists need terms and such explained in
detail, so sorry if we've confused you, and put you off your little project
.... Stick with it and you'll get there in the end d;~}

Arfa
 
Arfa,
finally someone that understands my madness! I have renewed hope now
in this project! Now all I have to do is determine the ground pin.
You explained it quite well by the way. I'll keep you all posted on my
progress. Hopefully by tuesday I will have the results that I'm
looking for. Thanks again.
 
I

inty's world

Arfa,
finally someone that understands my madness! I have renewed hope now
in this project! Now all I have to do is determine the ground pin.
You explained it quite well by the way. I'll keep you all posted on my
progress. Hopefully by tuesday I will have the results that I'm
looking for. Thanks again.

uhm... you need only three wires..
no special cables, no optical fiber ecc ecc
 
inty's world said:
uhm... you need only three wires..
no special cables, no optical fiber ecc ecc

IR remote sensors are amazingly unreliable when they're not properly
shielded and given dirty power. They contain a very high (and variable)
gain amplifier that goes nuts if there is any inductance on the leads.
Like Arfa said, it -might- work if you just use wires, but if I was
going through the trouble, I would do it right the first time.
 
M

Mike Berger

Can you run a piece of lucite or fiber optic cable from a small
hole in the cabinet to the remote sensor? That might be the
easiest solution.
 
OK guys, bare with me. Went to radio shack today and purchased what
turns out to be the wrong cable for this project. I'm bummed. I ended
up buying shielded microphone extension cable for about $7 and came
home ready to dive in and when I cut the top off of the cable I found
that it has an outer shielding and a single wire on the inside (not two
wires like I expected!) I'll try again tomorrow for a different cable.
Hope I don't make another mistake like that one. This could get
costly quick.
 
Arfa, is this a suitable choice of cable from radio shack???


Go the distance.
Flexible and durable, this 2-conductor, shielded cable can be used as
an extension cable for microphone connections.


Can be used with most professional quality microphones
Shielding reduces hum & noise
1 end has a 3-pin XLR jack, the other a 3-pin XLR plug

What's in the box

Microphone cable








Read the owner's manual
See technical specifications
See Features of this product


Print Email a friend

15-Ft. XLR-to-XLR Microphone Cable




$21.99
Model: 33-4002
Catalog #: 33-4002


Online: In stock
Usually ships in 1 - 2 business days


Order online with peace of mind



Free shipping on orders of $50 or more. More details





Shipping

Usually ships in 1 - 2 business days
What shipping method is right for me?


Other ways to get it

In store:
Available at most stores, find it near you

By phone:
call 1-800-843-7422





Customer reviews
Add your own review

Be the first to review this product




Pricing and availability: May vary outside the contiguous 48 United
States








Stuff you may want



Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone

$24.99







See all needs and wants

Need to back up a bit? Try looking in Microphone cables.
 
A

Arfa Daily

Arfa, is this a suitable choice of cable from radio shack???


Go the distance.
Flexible and durable, this 2-conductor, shielded cable can be used as
an extension cable for microphone connections.


Can be used with most professional quality microphones
Shielding reduces hum & noise
1 end has a 3-pin XLR jack, the other a 3-pin XLR plug


An XLR wired microphone cable is balanced, so yes, this is the correct
cable. However, do Radio Shack no longer sell cut cable from the reel over
there ? Would be cheaper, I guess, as the XLR connectors that are prewired
to this extension cable, are not cheap items, belonging as they do to the "
professional " series.


Arfa
 
Just wanted to let everyone that helped me out with their input that I
was successful in wiring up the remote sensor! I used the shielded
twin cable the Arfa suggested and it worked perfectly...and I didn't
even get zapped, which was a big plus! I'll post a snapshot of where
my project is currently for anyone interested in where my madness was
going. Thanks again to everyone that responded.
 
A

Arfa Daily

Just wanted to let everyone that helped me out with their input that I
was successful in wiring up the remote sensor! I used the shielded
twin cable the Arfa suggested and it worked perfectly...and I didn't
even get zapped, which was a big plus! I'll post a snapshot of where
my project is currently for anyone interested in where my madness was
going. Thanks again to everyone that responded.

Really glad that it all worked out ok. There's nothing worse than seeing a
hopeful non professional just get shot down on here, when they ask a
reasonable question. Well done, and I'm sure we'd all be interested in seing
pictures of the project.

Arfa
 
Thanks again Arfa. I agree. I've posted on other google groups and
have always recieved great help. I'll post the pics when I get most of
this back together and it really looks like something. I'm just
starting to assemble it today so sometime this week make sure you check
back.
Rich
 
A

Arfa Daily

Thanks again Arfa. I agree. I've posted on other google groups and
have always recieved great help. I'll post the pics when I get most of
this back together and it really looks like something. I'm just
starting to assemble it today so sometime this week make sure you check
back.
Rich

Will do

Arfa
 

Similar threads

J
Replies
0
Views
817
James Sweet
J
J
Replies
188
Views
7K
Terry Given
T
W
Replies
11
Views
1K
John Woodgate
J
Top