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Sir Rick79. . . . . . .
Good show !
What with that cap meter not working for you, that replacement is about the only way to know, when you are dealing with the equivalency of a non polarized electrolytic.
Did you ever get to my mention of establishing the cut out point with establishing a marked reference position on the volume control ?
Or maybe, you have done it sooooooo many times, that you just KNOW where it is . . .relatively.
Can you now get the unit operational, in the respect of getting the unit to cut out with volume advance until cut off..
Then you shut down and jumper across R3 and do a quick run up of the volume again, to confirm that the amp might NOT go into cut off at all, this test time.
If so PULL the jumper from across R3.
Then I hope that you bought more than 2 of those caps to go ahead and observe its install polarity and solder tack a new unit across C12 position and test for cut off. If that has no result, un tack it and sub it in across C10 position and test for cut out.
The last test position, if required, would be to sub it across C7 position .
However, that last positions function, is more relatable to causing your difficulty in getting the unit to eventually / reliably latch on during system power up.
Should you have only bought 2 of those new capacitors I think that we might gamble on using either of the
two pulled / replaced capacitors with short wire extensions soldered on to facilitate connecting the other ends..
Thasssit
73's de Edd
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