Advice with power tool battery

[karl_flg]

Hi good day!

Well I have this little weekend project, using my cordless circular saw as a table saw. I've did it before with another tool brand, however the connectors in the battery of my newest tool is completely different.

The battery has 5 connectors (-) (N) (B1) (B2) (+) and only (-) (N) (+) are connected to the tool's pins. In the (+) connector I want to put a switch to start and turn off the tool, but not sure what (N) is, and here is were I need your advice guys.

I've added an image with a little description of the connections I've planned.

Thanks in advance

 

[Bluejets]

Most battery devices use a temperature sensor to cut out if the battery gets too hot.

It's there for a good reason. Any search on youtube for lithium battery explosion will show you why.

Would be difficult to find any factory schematics to confirm the pinout of this battery though.

Where did you plan to put the additional switch connections...??

I'm guessing in the handle of the saw would be the best.

You'll probably be violating just about every law known whatever modification you make.

I'd be inclined to add an extra emergency cut switch, maybe a "press and hold to operate" foot switch.
Trying to reach for an on-off switch in an emergency would be a bad design.

 

[karl_flg]

Hi!

My idea is to use 3 cables AWG 12 to connect each pin of the battery to the corresponding pin of the tool. The (-) pin on battery will be connected directly to (-) on the tool, and the (N) pin on battery will be connected to the (N) pin on tool. But the cable assigned to the (+) pin, will have a switch to open and close the circuit and the trigger on the hande will be permanently pushed, so the tool will be started or turned off with the switch on (+) cable.

My concern is, if this improvised adaptation is safe to use with the tool. I did it before with another saw but in that case the battery only had two pins, positive and negative, but this one have that extra (N) pin.

 

[Bluejets]

You might find that method of connection between the battery terminals and that of the drill to be a bit iffy given the originals are a flat pin with set dimensions.
Replacing with a round section conductor has very little surface area.
Given 12awg will handle 20A or so, it's a bit of an overkill for conductor size.

As to whether your mod is safe or not depends on what you are guaging the safety level on.
Switch idea and your layout seems plausible though.

 

[karl_flg]

Thanks a lot for your advice, I'll give it a try this weekend, hope it works!

Best regards!

 

[claudias88]

Thanks for the overwhelming support.I was confronting with the similar issue.I want to add on another thing that
I am facing a lot of hindrances regarding the signal issues for Blackmagic and Arlo.I want to include I was not getting at all any image when I am adding the Intensity Shuttle as a shot in Wirecast 8.3, in Black Magic Media Express.For a couple of weeks I am facing the signal issues with both Arlo Ultra and Blackmagic.I have followed the suggestions as guided and also the manuals as directed by the arlo pro add on camera.Suggest us what to include into it.

 

[Martaine2005]

@claudias88
Do you want a switch on that?
I think you pasted here by mistakeeee...

Martin