J
John Fields
Odd how that is hard to tell now that you've snipped away the context.
Hmm. :-/
Odd how that is hard to tell now that you've snipped away the context.
Hmm. :-/
Only so far as what he posted. I thought he made his skill level fairly
clear.
That's completely beside the point.
Just like the fact that it wouldn't have worked anyway.
And you think that is something to brag about?
LMAO I'm not the one
touting myself as a "professional circuit designer".
I'm in it for the hobby and I've never pretended any different.
Perhaps you should have
told the OP that your circuit was untested and unsimulated, because even
I made the mistake of figuring that you actually posted stuff that you
knew would work.
I will certainly view your schematics from the proper perspective
from now on.
First off the sheez part wasn't addressed to you. You might have
deduced that from the punctuation.
Secondly I was being sarcastic, you
should have been able to tell that from the entire context of my post.
At any rate, you are the one setting the precident around here of
jumping down someones throat when you don't like the accuracy of their
posts.
Or did you already forget about the photocell and resistor
fiasco in your unending love/hate relationship with Larry?
It certainly woke you up didn't it. :-D
At any rate, the sole reason that I even mentioned you was because you
had already made your attempt at setting me up. Given your typical
behavior lately, I knew what was coming next. I figured my way of
pointing out your mistake was just beating you to the punch. Obviously
I was correct, since you are now so pissed over it.
I certainly didn't cuss you out over it though.
Where did I lie?
That was his choice. Like you, I reserve the right to respond when and
how I want.
And?
No need to sue, you are doing enough damage to your business and
reputation all by yourself.
You accused me of weaving and bobbing, so I figured that I hadn't been
plain enough for you.
Then, why did my comment upset you? I was only prompting you to fix
your error. I didn't call you any names, or use an cuss words so why
did you find it so upsetting?
I think I can still tell the difference between current, power and
energy.
I think you know that too or you'd be filling your posts with
links to all my past errors.
Not half as weak as someone that feels a need to dominate a basics
newsgroup just cuz they're an expert in the field.
Perhaps if you acted a little more civil around here, I would be
inclined to be nicer to you. As it stands, you certainly are
demonstrating that you deserve far less courtesy than I've shown you.
John Fields said:---
No it's not. The point was that a 0.6mA was a typo and the relay
would have clicked in whether that typo was there or not. Or do you
think there's some sort of entanglement between a typo and a physical
circuit which will keep it from working?
Most of us who have been around these technical newsgroups for any
length of time realize that unless it's explicitly stated that the
circuit has been tested or simulated, it hasn't. I see you have yet
to learn that. For the most part, most of the stuff we post is off
the top of our heads and is usually either right on or pretty close to
it, because it's stuff we do every day to make a living. However we
_do_ make errors from time to time, and some sharp individual will
usually catch the error and provide feedback. Luckily, Fred Bloggs
was there to catch mine and to graciously provide a solution.
You, on the other hand, seem to be interested in little more than
assuaging the effects that "current hogging" incident had your ego.
---
---
Yes, you should. Consider them documents from which you can learn how
to catch mistakes. However, I suspect that you'll miss even the most
glaring of technical errors and report back, scathingly, on all the
typos you find, LOL!
---
---
Well, duhhh...
If you can't write properly, how can you expect people not to
misunderstand you?
---
---
I'd hardly call that a fiasco; more like a disagreement, and it
started like this:
"
R1 = 6.2k
R2 = 400 -> 15M
R3 = 620
R1 (R2 + R3)
Rt = --------------
R1 + R2 + R3
6200 (400 + 620)
Rt1 = ------------------ = 875.9 ohms
6200 + 400 + 620
6200 (15e6 + 620)
Rt2 = ------------------- = 6197.4 ohms
6200 + 15e6 + 620
875.9 ohms to 6197.4 ohms isn't 1k to 5k.
"
BTW, I don't think my comment was all that bad, certainly not an FU or
anything like that. I noticed that Mike pointed out your error and
you didn't respond. I thought you might like to know about it.
---
Bullshit. You figured that since I called you on that
"curent-hogging" stupidity you'd try to throw a little barb to get
even.
---
---
You said: "I didn't feel the need to jump in and make a scene though."
After you said: "Hey Fields, are you ever going to acknowledge/correct
your mistake in S.E.D about max collector current on the 2N4401?
sheez...."
If you can't see that as making a scene, then saying that you didn't
feel the need to, then you're even stupider than I thought.
---
And, in view of the fact that you've proven yourself to be a liar, and
a stupid one at that, I maintain that you actually meant 'current
hogging' and decided that 'power hogging' would be a nice little
phrase to switch to to get you out of a jam.
---
---
You were plain enough, the bobbing and weaving part was about the
transfer to the "power hogging" ploy, the intent of which was to make
it seem like you knew what you were talking about, but merely used the
wrong choice of words to describe what you meant. What I'm saying is
that I think you were being intellectually dishonest in that there is
no use of "power hogging" in the context into which you cast it.
"Power hogging, in all the cases I've been able to find refers to one
device, alone or in parallel with others connected to a common power
supply, which draws what seems to be an inordinate amount of power
from the supply.
I know nothing about you which precedes your "current hogging" faux
pas, and I'm _certainly_ not interested in the genealogy of the huge
family of errors I'm sure you've procreated over the years.
I don't feel a need to dominate the NG, sweetie, but what I do like to
do is bring down self-important little bullshit artists like you, just
for fun. And as far as being an expert goes, I could be a complete
moron and you'd still have to consider me an expert.
BTW, what happened with running those numbers to see whether the power
dissipation spec of an LED with Vf max in series with an LED with Vf
min and If running through _both_ of them would be exceeded?
---
.
.
.
If you'd pull that narcissistic little head out of your ass you might
come to the realization that you're not the arbiter of who's deserving
of what, and you might find that I am, in fact, civil. That doesn't
mean that when a disingenuous little twat like you wanders in here and
starts playing games that she's not going to be called on it.
However you wish to see it John, though I didn't use any cuss words.
I'd go with jumpers on a micro. They're cheap and highly configurable.
An SSR doesn't qualify as a relay?
The same goes for test equipment, soldering stuff etc.... It's just one
more tool that you need, nothing more. A good PIC programmer is less
than $100. Compared to the $150 I spent on my audio frequency generator
that I almost never use, it's a great investment.
But it would be worth buying a DMM, a soldering iron, solder, etching
stuff etc.....?
Well, I guess that I see PIC chips like you see 74xx's
Burning yet another straw man, you really are a fire bug. I don't
recall asking anyone to spend money on equipement to be used once.
As I "self agrandised" before, if I was adamently suggesting a PIC to
someone, I'd be offering some help to go with it. You can make of that
what you wish.
Er um, because I don't want to. You really ought to stop trying to
control things around here. Ordering people around on usenet is not
likely to win you many friends.
Programmers and dev tools don't count. We've already covered this.
They are in the same category as all other dev tools and electronics
equipment you own.
It's certainly not half as expensive when you factor in a board and the
rest of the common parts. The difference quickly shrinks to ~10% or
less, now doesn't it?
Admittedly for one off, it's pretty hard to be cheaper using an 8-bit
micro. A 4-bit proc would do the job, and it would be cheaper. BTW,
your quoted prices were a bit low as shown on Digikey, so things aren't
as bad as you wish to make it seem. Of course your price was 70 cents
yesterday and now it's only 63 cents, so why am I not surprised?
According to Digikey, the fairchild 4060 is 77 cents in single qty, the
ST part is 55 cents each.
What about the electronics learing curve? It's only about 1000 times
larger, be for real. That's the same old tired mantra formerly sung by
"professional tube circuit designers" when whining about having to learn
yucky old transistor theory.
configurable.
---
Not as a relay with mechanical contacts, but it doesn't matter. The OP
asked for something which could _drive_ a relay, which is what I gave
him. I showed a mechanical relay because that's what he said he was
going to use, but if he wanted to switch to an SSR, that would be up
to him.
---
---
You'd need that stuff whichever way you decided to go, but you'd only
need the other stuff if you were going to implement the device using a
micro, so it would be stupid to go that way when the other way is so
simple.
---
I doubt it. I work in both camps as well as in analog, and so far
you've demonstrated no skill with anything other than some alluded-to
ability to substitute programming for hardware you admittedly don't
understand and don't want to "take a lifetime to learn", or something
like that.
---
It's not a straw man at all.
When you insist that using a µC is a better solution than using
"discrete" logic, then if that insistance bears fruit, the requirement
for the equipment necessary to implement your solution will become
de rigueur. If the breadth of the project is the yield of a single
unit with a cost basically down in the noise compared to the required
expenditure in time and money to complete the project, then doesn't it
seem stupid to you to do it that way when doing it in hardware would
be so much faster and less expensive?
You really ought to follow your own advice, hypocrite. You telling me
to stop trying to control things around here is you trying to control
me. Friends I've got. Insignificant gadflies like you I don't need.
---
Other than your just being obstinate, I fail to see why, (without
even going into the learning curve part of it) you think that paying
money for dev tools which will only be used once is better than not
having to pay for the dev tools, yet winding up with exactly what you
want anyway.
---
That's a good point but, bottom line, you still save about 50 cents if
you don't do it with a micro and you don't have to learn how to do it
and buy all the stuff to do it with if you're not going to do it
again.
---
Dumbass, the OP over on SED wasn't interested in spending a great deal
of time and some bucks on learning how to design a µC timer; what he
wanted was something quick and easy which he could solder up, probably
on a piece of perfboard, which would do what he wanted. That's what
he got, and I got private email from him thanking me for the circuit
and letting me know that he'd let me know how it worked out. Rest
assured that I'll post the good news when I hear it.
Now, do you have any comments on whether it'll work or not? Why don't
you build one and find out? It'll only cost you five bucks or so and
we'll learn whether you know how to solder or not. Or wire-wrap. Or
whether you're just plain ol' fulla shit.
The point had nothing to do with whether it worked or not. The point
was your mistake, or "trypo" as you like to call them.
I never bothered to look that close. Obviously Fred is well aware that
you often post non-working circuits.
It might be different if I was actually looking for errors in the
schematic, but I simply wasn't. I just noticed the glaring "trypo" in
the text.
Do you think that I have no other skills, or is circuit design all that
is important?
Kinda like the pretense where you come off as a civil human being?
Actually, I meant that in a gullable sort of way. I've got your number
now though.
Actually, I've been getting a kick out of watching you blow your top.
![]()
I seriously doubt that I'll be reporting back much of anything about any
of your circuits.
I do suspect that I will be hearing from you more often in the future though.
My comments in the original post were rhetorical, haven't you figured
that out yet?
[/QUOTE] ^^^^^^^^^What's to defend, I admitted my little faux pa.
Really? Do ya think so?
As I said before, I didn't see a need to make a scene when I first saw
your mistake in SED. After that, when you posted your little trick
setup question in SEB, I felt a bit different. And then after Watson's
snide little remark about attrocious advice, I posted my little ^^^^^^^^^^
atrocious
sarcastic rant. And now here we are. Is that timeline really so hard
to grasp?
See above.
[/QUOTE]As I originally posted in reply to your little trick query:
<quote>
Perhaps "dissipate more power" would have been more appropriate than
"hog more current".
</quote>
So as we can all plainly see, 'current hogging' is your own little
fabrication of terminology that I never used.
Do you think that you've somehow proved that I didn't know the
difference?
Again, like as stated earlier. I was originally going to say "juice"
not current and not power. Again, I wish that I had just so I could see
how you could have twisted that around.
Is juice power, or is it current or maybe even energy?
Again, my original intent was not to use the word power either,
even though it would have been the "most correct" term.
Hard to believe that set you onto a personal crusade to prove me
a liar.
What type of reply do you think you deserve at this point in our
relationship?
Why do I think that no matter what I posted you would ridicule it?
As you have so aptly demonstrated, you would leave no stone unturned in
order to crucify me.
Too funny.
I never said that I thought you were smarter than me. Only that you
knew more about electronics. Don't flatter yourself, there is a
difference.
Self important bullshit artist? That's got to be the most serious case
of projection I've ever seen. Do you see me waving my credentials
around? Do I have a sig line making bodacious claims?
That's not far from how I see things right now.
I don't know, what happened? How about you pick your own experiments,
and I'll pick mine.
John Fields said:---
I think I already admitted that but, just in case you missed it, here
ya go: I made a typographical error. Happy now?
---
---
Well, since this _is_ an electronics group, I post circuits. Some
have technical errors in them, some don't. They usually get fixed.
The point is, _I_ post circuits. You, OTOH, critique typos when
someone catches you in a technical error.
It's what I do for a living, so that makes it my profession. So I put
what I do in my .sig, what's wrong with that?
Interestingly, the fact that I do seems to thoroughly irk you since
you've mentioned it in a derogatory way more than once. Perhaps it's
because I choose to include "Professional" and you think that I should
be more humble and merely post "Circuit designer"? Perhaps you need
to get over yourself and come to the realization that not everyone is
going to accede to your whims as to what does and what doesn't
constitute proper behavior.
electronics and the ability to communicate. In seb, it's also
important to be able to render technical criticism
non-confrontationally in order to not scare off the newbies.
---
though.
---
Perhaps.
I will say one thing now, though, and that is that after having
checked your posting history last night I found that you do seem to
know what you're talking about, technically, most of the time, so I
apologize for any inaccurate broad-brush slurs I may have made
earlier.
However, as far as the PIC VS "discrete" logic thing goes, you're
still all wet.
---
[/QUOTE]---
^^^^^^^^^
precedent
^^^^^^^^
someone's
their posts.
---
---
Wellll... yeah.
After all, you say "WTF" so you can pretend that that's not saying
"What The ****", which is a pussy trait because pussies dont like the
"F" word, and you say that you don't use "cuss words" when the
acronym embodies the 'cuss words' you know the reader will expand
mentally to yield the 'cuss words' you want to wield, but can't.
So, your saying that you don't use 'cuss words' is a lie and lying is
another pussy trait.
saying now is that you're now attaching conditions which made it OK to
make a scene. Can't you see that that's an ex post facto violation of
the first statement by the second?
"Please, Mommy, Oh, pleeeease make him give me back my marbles...
is
Do you think that you've somehow proved that I didn't know the
difference?
---
That's not far from how I see things right now.
---
Ah, a double entendre; how delicious! Intended?
---
I don't know, what happened? How about you pick your own experiments,
and I'll pick mine.
---
Awww... baby demurs. And here I thought I was going to get to see
some good stuff.
OK, _I'll_ do it.
Here's the circuit:
E1
|
[R1]
|
+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Unfortunately, the data sheet at the link you provided:
http://www.epitex.com/Catalog_PDF/08_Point_source_LED/L590CE-34F.PDF
doesn't show Vf min, and I couldn't find any Vf min for white LEDs so,
since you said that Vf can vary 2:1, looking at a Vf max of 4.0V for a
"typical" white LED at 20mA yields a Vf min of 2.0V. Also, 100mW
seems to be a pretty typical max dissipation, so if we redraw the
circuit with that in mind, and with LEDs with equal low Vf's we'll
get:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[R1]
|
4.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
The choice of 9V for E1 is based on the assumption that E1 will be
regulated and will give 1V of headroom if DS1 and DS2 are both at Vf
max.
Now, since the current in a series circuit is everywhere the same,
solving for R1 with 20mA of LED current yields:
(E1-E2) 5V
R1 = --------- = ------- = 250 ohms
It 0.02A
and the LEDs will each be dissipating:
P = IE = 0.02A * 2V = 0.04W
so everything will be fine.
Now, though, let's select a high Vf LED for DS1 and see what happens.
Here's the circuit now:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
6.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Since we now have a 3V drop across R1 the current will fall to:
E 3V
I = --- = ------ = 0.012A
R 250R
and the power being dissipated by DS1 will be:
P = 0.012A * 4V = 0.048W
So, if the LED is rated for 100mW max, it will be dissipating 48mW
and everything will still be fine, except the light output will
suffer.
If we have two Vf max LEDs in the circuit it'll look like this:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
8.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
4.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
and the current in the circuit will fall to:
1V
I = ------ = 0.004A
250R
So, while everything will still be fine from a power dissipation
viewpoint, the light output from the LEDs will be greatly degraded.
Although it would be possible to fiddle with supply voltages and
series resistances in order to come up with a solution which would
allow a greater light output without overdriving the LEDs regardless
of the Vf spread, It would be more practical, IMO, to drive them with
a constant current.
Anthony Fremont wrote:
In my case: 30 mA is max, so feeding them 22 mA shouldn't be that bad.
Moreover, the LED died when the circuit at
http://johnbokma.com/pet/scorpion/detection-using-uv-leds.html
was connected to 9V, or maybe even 7V (less then 12V anyway).
Well duh, that would be the appropriate thing to do wouldn't it?
Did I say that somewhere? Since you mentioned it, don't you find the
word professional to be tiny bit redundant?
Why do you feel a need to tell the world that you really do get paid?
Translation: Yes, you probably do know a bunch of stuff that I don't
know, but since I don't know it, it's not relevant.
Have I not communicated well enough?
Modicum and acumen in the same sentence. No wonder it took you all
night to respond.
OMG, I can't believe it. That must have been really hard.
Maybe we can coexist then.
OK, here we go:
First I said, "Maybe I could help make amends by belittling others,
nit-picking posts and posting a bunch
of OT crap?". Then I said, "Lets see if we can't get on to the road to
recovery now." That's all kinda the setup up indicating that sarcastic
and rhetorical remarks may follow. And then they did. I jibed Watson
since he tossed the first punch and you for what amounts to several
reasons (mainly your setup question when I've never slapped at you
before, I knew what you were trying to do and it torqued me off,
finally I've frankly found you to be a bit offensive lately and without
cause to other people namely Larry). So while it may not have been
entirely rhetorical, I really didn't expect this outcome.
Why are spell checking my old posts now?
Actually I use the "F" word plenty well, I just tend to not spell it out
in usenet articles. Just trying to consider the children. ;-)
Yes, it's all about what serves your agenda best, isn't it?
And I thought by saying "dissipate more power" that I made it perfectly
clear that I knew what you were hinting at. How direct does something
need to be before you can see it?
See, there you go making prejudicial statements again. You have no
idea.
Awww... baby demurs. And here I thought I was going to get to see
some good stuff.
OK, _I'll_ do it.
Here's the circuit:
E1
|
[R1]
|
+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Unfortunately, the data sheet at the link you provided:
http://www.epitex.com/Catalog_PDF/08_Point_source_LED/L590CE-34F.PDF
doesn't show Vf min, and I couldn't find any Vf min for white LEDs so,
since you said that Vf can vary 2:1, looking at a Vf max of 4.0V for a
"typical" white LED at 20mA yields a Vf min of 2.0V. Also, 100mW
seems to be a pretty typical max dissipation, so if we redraw the
circuit with that in mind, and with LEDs with equal low Vf's we'll
get:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[R1]
|
4.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
The choice of 9V for E1 is based on the assumption that E1 will be
regulated and will give 1V of headroom if DS1 and DS2 are both at Vf
max.
Now, since the current in a series circuit is everywhere the same,
solving for R1 with 20mA of LED current yields:
(E1-E2) 5V
R1 = --------- = ------- = 250 ohms
It 0.02A
and the LEDs will each be dissipating:
P = IE = 0.02A * 2V = 0.04W
so everything will be fine.
Now, though, let's select a high Vf LED for DS1 and see what happens.
Here's the circuit now:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
6.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Since we now have a 3V drop across R1 the current will fall to:
E 3V
I = --- = ------ = 0.012A
R 250R
and the power being dissipated by DS1 will be:
P = 0.012A * 4V = 0.048W
So, if the LED is rated for 100mW max, it will be dissipating 48mW
and everything will still be fine, except the light output will
suffer.
If we have two Vf max LEDs in the circuit it'll look like this:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
8.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
4.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
and the current in the circuit will fall to:
1V
I = ------ = 0.004A
250R
So, while everything will still be fine from a power dissipation
viewpoint, the light output from the LEDs will be greatly degraded.
Although it would be possible to fiddle with supply voltages and
series resistances in order to come up with a solution which would
allow a greater light output without overdriving the LEDs regardless
of the Vf spread, It would be more practical, IMO, to drive them with
a constant current.
So there we have it, the OP has been proven wrong. His LED's could not
have possibly failed.
Rich said:If you really used that exact circuit, with three LEDs in series
in each leg, then you have not killed any LEDs - 9V is simply
not enough to make them conduct. With three LEDS with a forward
voltage of 3.6V each, that's 3.6 * 3, or 10.8V, before any
current will flow at all. It's probably somewhat lower,
but
once the forward threshold voltage is reached, the current
increases exponentially, which is why you limit the current,
and let the voltage find its own value.
Try two in series with a 91R resistor, as others have suggested,
or use a 12V source, like on the website,
and put three in series
with 60 ohms - 62 is the nearest 5% value, I think.
---
paid?
---
Actually, it's more of an ad than anything else, and has brought in
some work from time to time, so it's important in that sense.
---
---
Interesting that you find it necessary to try to put words in my
mouth. Sounds like you're so unsure of yourself that you have to
manufacture situations in which parts of imaginary conversations fill
in the empty spaces.
What you were doing was using sarcasm and invective vituperatively in
order to retaliate for your feelings of having been belittled.
And because I feel like it.
Besides, any "children" who hang out here have heard it all before
just in case you've been away from the planet for a while.
Yes, it's all about what serves your agenda best, isn't it?
[/QUOTE]And I thought by saying "dissipate more power" that I made it perfectly
clear that I knew what you were hinting at. How direct does something
need to be before you can see it?
at you, and you're _still_ not over it. For an 'old hand' on usenet
you sure have thin skin!
---
Awww... baby demurs. And here I thought I was going to get to see
some good stuff.
OK, _I'll_ do it.
Here's the circuit:
E1
|
[R1]
|
+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Unfortunately, the data sheet at the link you provided:
http://www.epitex.com/Catalog_PDF/08_Point_source_LED/L590CE-34F.PDF
doesn't show Vf min, and I couldn't find any Vf min for white LEDs so,
since you said that Vf can vary 2:1, looking at a Vf max of 4.0V for a
"typical" white LED at 20mA yields a Vf min of 2.0V. Also, 100mW
seems to be a pretty typical max dissipation, so if we redraw the
circuit with that in mind, and with LEDs with equal low Vf's we'll
get:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[R1]
|
4.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
The choice of 9V for E1 is based on the assumption that E1 will be
regulated and will give 1V of headroom if DS1 and DS2 are both at Vf
max.
Now, since the current in a series circuit is everywhere the same,
solving for R1 with 20mA of LED current yields:
(E1-E2) 5V
R1 = --------- = ------- = 250 ohms
It 0.02A
and the LEDs will each be dissipating:
P = IE = 0.02A * 2V = 0.04W
so everything will be fine.
Now, though, let's select a high Vf LED for DS1 and see what happens.
Here's the circuit now:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
6.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
2.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
Since we now have a 3V drop across R1 the current will fall to:
E 3V
I = --- = ------ = 0.012A
R 250R
and the power being dissipated by DS1 will be:
P = 0.012A * 4V = 0.048W
So, if the LED is rated for 100mW max, it will be dissipating 48mW
and everything will still be fine, except the light output will
suffer.
If we have two Vf max LEDs in the circuit it'll look like this:
9.0V-+---->E1
|
[250]
|
8.0V-+---->E2
|
[DS1]
|
4.0V-+---->E3
|
[DS2]
|
GND
and the current in the circuit will fall to:
1V
I = ------ = 0.004A
250R
So, while everything will still be fine from a power dissipation
viewpoint, the light output from the LEDs will be greatly degraded.
Although it would be possible to fiddle with supply voltages and
series resistances in order to come up with a solution which would
allow a greater light output without overdriving the LEDs regardless
of the Vf spread, It would be more practical, IMO, to drive them with
a constant current.
So there we have it, the OP has been proven wrong. His LED's could not
have possibly failed.
---
But since there _was_ a failure, if LEDs with the range of Vf's you
said was possible were hooked up as shown and the supply voltage and
series resistance were as shown, it would have been impossible for an
overcurrent situation to cause one of the LEDs to fail, so _your_
analysis of the failure mode was in error!
In all fairness, though, I don't recall what the situation surrounding
the failure was or anything about the circuit other than that it was a
couple of LEDs hooked up in series with a current limiting resistor of
some kind and a power supply. If you can supply the details we can
get to the bottom of it.