Maker Pro
Maker Pro

100 step rotary encoder

N

N_Cook

Getting a bit flakey on a Behringer SL2442 mixing desk.
Just 3 control lines out , ground and 2 lines taken high via 4K7 to 5V. What
would be inside , 2 sets of 10 resistors? All wrapped up again , different
problem repaired and only noticed at final checks so cannot investigate.
Owner only uses one effect so fingers-crossed will not need replacement or
its fellow
 
N

N_Cook

Gareth Magennis said:
The ones I've seen have 2 printed concentric zero ohm tracks, in a "square
wave" pattern.
Each track is supplied with 5v by the pullup resistors, the wiper shorting
out the tracks as it is turned, producing 2 square wave outputs.

The tracks are printed such that turning it one way makes one output lead
the other, turning it backwards makes it lag the other.

It is then possible to use these as data lines to a uP port, where software
determines direction of rotation and increments or decrements a counter to
show how far it has been moved.

Obviously it is not possible to determine absolute position.



Gareth.

And then non-volatile memory storage of the last stored position . So
presumably you can turn the control when powered off and it will display the
stored setting when powered on again.
So there is a good chance of getting inside one to clean etc and return it
to productive use .
 
M

Mark Zacharias

Arfa Daily said:
Interesting that you've found that. I have had total success cleaning the
ones that are fitted to hifi's, for years now. The rotating encoder rings
and the wiping contacts are normally gold plated, and the intermittency
issue is caused by the 'stirring treacle' grease that's used in them,
migrating down the shaft and onto the contacts. When removed from the pcb,
these encoders are easily stripped. A little drop of IPA on a cotton bud
turns the grease to a sort of 'jelly', which is then easily picked out
with tweezers. Once it's all clean, I normally retension the contacts, and
add a single drop of cleaner / lubricant before reassembling. I can't
recall ever having to replace one, and have done scores of them over the
years. It was a favourite problem in many of the Aiwa models that were on
the market a few years ago.

Arfa

I found a couple very common types available very cheap from Onkyo in the
U.S.
About $1.00 each.

I've had good success cleaning them for the most part, but I did have a very
nasty re-do on a JVC stereo which had a slightly different encoder, seemed
to work after cleaning, then wound up having to order the original part from
JVC when the unit came back.

It was buried on a sub-board in the front panel of a tabletop stereo, so the
double extra-special labor to get in there a second time probably cost me

As cheap as they are, I generally replace them with the Onkyo parts, since
most models use one of the two Onk parts I stock.

I did have a Marantz SR-18U recently which had a "special" one, and no
longer available from Marantz. I cleaned it, and it worked OK, but I was
kind of sweating bullets on that one...

Mark Z.
 
N

N_Cook

Gareth Magennis said:
These are the type typically found in Mr Cooks mixer, FX units etc.

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/ec11e09204a4/encoder-vertical-11mm-18det-9ppr/dp/
2064980

At £2.05 for a new one I am certainly not going to bother trying to bodge a
few extra months out of a knackered one!
(The official parts from manufacturers (Yamaha, Roland, Korg etc) can
admittedly sometimes cost up to £10 after postage/packing etc)

But that's more my policy than anything else - Do I charge the customer
labour for bodging, or do I, in my opinion, do the right thing and replace
the faulty part instead?
If the customer finds it goes dicky again less than a year after I've
charged him at least an hours labour to supposedly fix it, my reputation is
going to take a hit.

With a new one, it feels all nice and new again, its easily within an hours
labour plus parts, the customer is well chuffed, and it should last the same
amount of time again.
No brainer, IMHO.


Cheers,


Gareth.

This one has a co-axial switch for the memory change function and as far as
I remember no where in that 2x3 foot panel , any space to squeeze a switch ,
apart from having to cut a new hole in the top pannel.
So recondition of the existing or constrained to the main-dealer for supply
of a direct replacement
 
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