YL90L2-2 single phase dual capacitor motor

[bravestknight]

hello, I've been asked to check out an electric motor for a friend. It's a Single phase dual capacitor electric motor type YL90L2-2 motor. It was tripping the breaker of the outlet plug when plugged in. My initial time to look at it, I plugged it in and it wasn't tripping the breaker for me, so I was called a miracle worker and was asked to install an outdoor outlet for it. Which I did. Upon plugging it in, it tripped the breaker. After rechecking my wiring, I decided to take the motor to an electric motor repair shop. I was charged for replacing electric brushes & cleaning of the contacts. Upon return to the residence, as soon as I plugged it in, it tripped the breaker again. I returned the motor to the electric shop, to which I was informed that no fault could be found. I took the motor to my home and plugged it in and no problems, motor ran. So I installed the motor into the corn cob grinder and attached the belts to a snug fit. Plugged it in, breaker tripped. Removed the motor again, plugged it in, breaker trips every time. I removed the electric cover and discovered that the wiring was not matching the name plate wiring shown for ccw rotation. So I corrected it. Now the motor runs, however it has no starting torque or running torque. If one holds the pulley by hand, it will not start turning when plugged in. Once it is running, if one grabs the spinning pulley by hand, it will stop with the grips of ones hands.

The name plate says the following:
power - 2.2 KW
Volts - 110 volts
Hz - 60
Amps - 13.4
RPM - 2800
Ins - B
Ip- Ip44
Starting-cap - 250uF/250V
Run-cap - 45uF/450V


The capacitors actually on the motor are
Start - 500uF+/- 30/10% 250VAC
Run - 50uF +/- 5% 450VAC



I am requesting information to get this motor running correctly.

Obviously something is awry. Please help.

Thank you in advance.

I purchased a new start capacitor 216-259MFD 330VAC, however, I have done nothing with it, as of yet.

 

[Minder]

Strictly speaking that motor should be on at least a 20amp 120v outlet, as it is ~3HP.
The inrush current will be fairly high at switch on. Especially if there is also a load at start up.
I question the shop you took it to if they "charged for replacing electric brushes & cleaning of the contacts".
If a split phase induction motor it has no brushes and the only contacts are in the centrifugal starting switch.
I would confirm it first on a outlet of sufficient capacity first.
Especially as it ran off load.
You have obviously now re-connected it in error!
M.

 

[bravestknight]

Strictly speaking that motor should be on at least a 20amp 120v outlet, as it is ~3HP.
The inrush current will be fairly high at switch on. Especially if there is also a load at start up.
I question the shop you took it to if they "charged for replacing electric brushes & cleaning of the contacts".
If a split phase induction motor it has no brushes and the only contacts are in the centrifugal starting switch.
I would confirm it first on a outlet of sufficient capacity first.
Especially as it ran off load.
You have obviously now re-connected it in error!
M.

Hello Minder, excellent reply. Upon reading what you wrote, I see I had left out the breaker size that was tripping. It is a 20 amp breaker. I am in agreement with you concerning the motor shop. My intention is to follow up with the owner of Allen Southern Electric in Mobile, Alabama. As for the error in reconnecting, please know that I have only changed wiring on the top side of the terminals to match the name plate diagram. I have not changed any of the 5 wires on the underside of the terminals coming directly from the motor windings. In addition, I feel that I had done something right in the re-wiring as the motor now will run w/o tripping the breaker, it just has no starting or running torque, as I mentioned.

Are you offering a solution? My thought is that the capacitors are in the wrong position. Or that the winding wires are in the wrong location. Whatever the case, it is HELP that I am seeking. Perhaps you could help?

 

[Bluejets]

Breaker and more than likely associated wiring no where near large enough. Also, when rectifying this, look at appropriate curve breaker for motor start.

 

[Minder]

As for the error in reconnecting, please know that I have only changed wiring on the top side of the terminals to match the name plate diagram. I have not changed any of the 5 wires on the underside of the terminals coming directly from the motor windings. In addition, I feel that I had done something right in the re-wiring as the motor now will run w/o tripping the breaker, it just has no starting or running torque, as I mentioned.

Obviously there is some mis-connection due to no torque now.
Can you post a pic of the motor plate/connections etc?
M.

 

[bravestknight]

Obviously there is some mis-connection due to no torque now.
Can you post a pic of the motor plate/connections etc?
M.

Obviously there is some mis-connection due to no torque now.
Can you post a pic of the motor plate/connections etc?
M.

Here is a photo of name plate. Wires are presently wired as shown on name plate for ccw rotation (120 volt power source at U2 & V2). Run capacitor at Z1 & V1. Start capacitor at U1 & V1.

 

[bravestknight]

Breaker and more than likely associated wiring no where near large enough. Also, when rectifying this, look at appropriate curve breaker for motor start.

Breaker issue is taken care of as motor will now run w/o tripping breaker, it just has no start or run torque. And motor start taken care of, it just has no torque.

 

[Minder]

Could be you have the start and run winding's reversed. The run winding (no cap in series) is the one with the lowest resistance, the higher resitance start winding has both caps in series, the larger value one gets switched out by the internal switch.
M.

 

[Bluejets]

Breaker issue is taken care of as motor will now run w/o tripping breaker, it just has no start or run torque. And motor start taken care of, it just has no torque.

I'd like to be as sure of winning lotto that the breaker problem returns when your torque issue is sorted.

 

[bravestknight]

I'd like to be as sure of winning lotto that the breaker problem returns when your torque issue is sorted.

The impression here is that you have no desire to help, just simply add to the frustration. Why even bother to comment if you have no desire to offer a solution??

 

[bravestknight]

Could be you have the start and run winding's reversed. The run winding (no cap in series) is the one with the lowest resistance, the higher resitance start winding has both caps in series, the larger value one gets switched out by the internal switch.
M.

Thank you, I will check.

 

[Minder]

I realize I may have mislead, I meant both caps in series with the start winding, not with each other.
M.

 

[Bluejets]

The impression here is that you have no desire to help, just simply add to the frustration. Why even bother to comment if you have no desire to offer a solution??

Difference is I know what I am talking about and you seem intent on supplying answers to your own problems. If you do not require my assistance or any from anyone who suggests something which differs from your own diagnosis, that's fine by me.