Wahl "Peanut" Electric Razor blown

[SHesington]

I just returned from the UK last week, and while there I plugged my Wahl razor into an outlet using an adapter. However, apparently it wasn't a convertor as well, because my razor "popped" and was instantly dead.

Is this repairable? If so, can I do it myself or do I need to have it done by an expert?

 

[Alec_t]

Welcome to EP!
The most likely fault is a burnt-out coil. I doubt repair would be economical.

 

[kellys_eye]

I would suspect the manufacturers anticipated this possibility and fitted some circuit protection device - likely and in-line fuse or such. It should be readily apparent if it is a 'replaceable' item.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir SHesington . . . . . . .

I would fully expectorate that you hit the unit with a FULL . . . and that's being hea-veeeee on the FULL . . . 220/40 and it zapped the hash inductor that passes off AC to be converted to DC with the Full Wave Bridge and then goes directly into the units "Peanut " powered 5 Watt 120VDC motor.
Pull out ye olde tyme ohm metre and see that the motor was probably saved, but the 47uh inductor is open circuit, while some of the 4 junctions of the FWB might have also crunched down.

INTERNAL REFERENCING:

73's de Edd

 

[davenn]

Sir SHesington . . . . . . .

I would fully expectorate that you hit the unit with a FULL . . . and that's being hea-veeeee on the FULL . . . 220/40 and it zapped the hash inductor that passes off AC to be converted to DC with the Full Wave Bridge and then goes directly into the units "Peanut " powered 5 Watt 120VDC motor.
Pull out ye olde tyme ohm metre and see that the motor was probably saved, but the 47uh inductor is open circuit, while some of the 4 junctions of the FWB might have also crunched down.

INTERNAL REFERENCING:

73's de Edd

no image to see

 

[VladTheImpala]

In a moment of naïveté I had basically the exact same experience today.
Got an instant 'pop' sound and sudden feeling of being an idiot

I was able to disassemble my Peanut, here's what we've got:

This thing is the 'low end' model of the Wahl lineup, as I understand it.

If I had a voltmeter, how might I confirm the thing is FUBAR or not?

I'm not sure but I'm not seeing an obvious fuse, at least I don't think so (is the black round bit a capacitor?)

The green resistor has clearly seen better days, and I suppose it needs to be replaced, assuming it's possible to repair.

 

[ratstar]

test the motor with a source of power, it might be the motor thats dead?

 

[Alec_t]

is the black round bit a capacitor?

No. It's a bridge rectifier to convert the AC mains to DC for the motor.

 

[VladTheImpala]

No. It's a bridge rectifier to convert the AC mains to DC for the motor.

Thanks, that of course makes sense

 

[VladTheImpala]

test the motor with a source of power, it might be the motor thats dead?

The motor doesn't seem to have a rating on it. Is there a way to deduce its expected amperage based on the bridge rectifier?

UPDATE:
I checked the housing of the unit and it revealed 3W.
Seems I'm on the hunt now for some appropriate power source that can do 120V @ 3 Amps.
Don't have a lot of experience working with AC - what might be a reasonable way to power this for testing purposes?

 

[Bluejets]

120 x 3 = 360w bulb in series.
100w for a short time should be no problem.

As always, be aware you are "playing" with mains supply here and it IS lethal, especially in the wrong hands.

 

[VladTheImpala]

120 x 3 = 360w bulb in series.
100w for a short time should be no problem.

As always, be aware you are "playing" with mains supply here and it IS lethal, especially in the wrong hands.

Thanks Bluejets, precisely why I'm asking for "reasonable" ways to test.
I think I misspoke before - 3W @ 120V should be, if my math is right, 0.025 Amps. (P = IV)
If possible I'd prefer to test with non-mains source, e.g. an inverter hooked up to some batteries maybe. Is that viable you think?
There's also an electronics shop nearby with a workbench intended for customers. I've soldered there before - wondering if there might be some kind of power supply product I could ask to borrow? What would it be called?

In the meantime this is what I got when I looked up the resistor details. (if I understand right the resistor seems quite likely to need replacing)

 

[ratstar]

(the motor)
you could probably run it off any power source, wouldnt be ideal but you could tell it was working or not.

Maybe a millifarad capacitor charged full block from a power supply might be able to pulse it, but maybe not I've only dealt with little motors up till now, this one is a big sucker, i bet it could rip your face off! =)

 

[Bluejets]

Vlad....Start changing info in your posts and nobody knows where the hell they are......... just saying.

 

[Harald Kapp]

ou could probably run it off any power source,

The printing on the motor states 120 V DC , 32 mA. 120 V DC is not just "any power source".

The resistor has blown some of the insulation. It is probably open circuit now. Try to identify the original colors and find a replacement. I see you have done so. If you're confident about your readings, get a 150 Ω resistor for replacement. Wattage should be 1/2 W or higher.
The bridge rectifier can easily be checked with a multimeter with a diode testing range. Just check all four diodes for correct operation.
The motor can be tested by verifying at least that is is not open circuit. It should show a resistance somewhere in the low kΩ range.

 

[VladTheImpala]

The printing on the motor states 120 V DC , 32 mA. 120 V DC is not just "any power source".

The resistor has blown some of the insulation. It is probably open circuit now. Try to identify the original colors and find a replacement. I see you have done so. If you're confident about your readings, get a 150 Ω resistor for replacement. Wattage should be 1/2 W or higher.
The bridge rectifier can easily be checked with a multimeter with a diode testing range. Just check all four diodes for correct operation.
The motor can be tested by verifying at least that is is not open circuit. It should show a resistance somewhere in the low kΩ range.

Thank you Harald, this is exactly the advice I was hoping for. I will keep my expectations low and hope for the best!

 

[TheTopal]

Thank you Harald, this is exactly the advice I was hoping for. I will keep my expectations low and hope for the best!

Hey everyone, i've just had EXACTLY the same issue as you... connected the peanut to 220v, instantly blown the thing up
I stripped it apart and it looks exaclty as the picture you showed...
did u managed to repair it?

ill be waiting for your kind reply.

greetings from uruguay