Valves badged Orange , rebadged what make?

[N_Cook]

Anyone know?
No underlying idents , only 3 years old at most

 

[N_Cook]

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better

 

[Phil Allison]

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better

** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


...... Phil

 

[N_Cook]

I've been buying and fitting JJ Tesla valves exclusively for the last 5
years or so. I bought a whole bunch straight from the factory (EL34, EL84,
6L6, ECC83 - not tried any JJ6550's, usually get Svetlanas as required).

I can't remember seeing any amps come back with a failed JJ Tube I fitted.
When I do see an amp back I recheck the bias current and they are always
still closely matched.
They are priced well towards the cheaper end of the quality tube market.


(Last Orange amp I had, a Rockverb 50, I replaced 4 x 6V6 with JJ's, haven't
seen it since)


Gareth.

I take it from that , that the Orange amp reputation as valve-eaters is due
to whether Chinese or whatever Orange re-badged valves they use, for
reliability replace with good named brand ones at the first opportunity.

 

[Meat Plow]

"Nutcase Kook"


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and
EL34s you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output
valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil

I've heard that EH stands up well. I'm not a Svetlana fan. Have had
limited success with JJs. Best for my concern would be some NOS Mullards
or RCA.

 

[Meat Plow]

Sorry, that post reads a little curt, but for example:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EL34-CV1741-MULLARD-NOS-MATCHED-

PAIR-/310210519111?
pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item4839fce047Blimey.Gareth.

I know a few that wouldn't bat an eyelash at that price.

If all my posts don't help everyone, tough shite.

 

[N_Cook]

While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

 

[N_Cook]

While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

They sound like absolute garbage. Were Orange amps ever any good?

+++++

They must be esceedingly good because they are exceedingly expensive.
Makes you wonder what the difference is , in Sterling terms, the money going
out to China for making the things compared to the UK selling price.

 

[N_Cook]

While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

They sound like absolute garbage. Were Orange amps ever any good?

++++

The other notorious Orange problem - intermittant loss of one channel,
whether by sw on front or footswitch.
Although they use latching 1/4 inch spade connectors, just because they will
not dislodge, does not necessarily mean they retain electrical connection.

 

[Meat Plow]

You could experiment to see if any of them could really tell the
difference in a properly controlled double blind test.

I am highly suspicious of any opinions regarding "sound quality"
obtained otherwise.


Gareth.

You left out durability factor.

 

[N_Cook]

The owner had lived with the "shaver" noise for months,but had gradually got
worse. Masked by the demand effect, no music - light buzz, high music
volume - loud buzz.
Absolutely quiet transformer now. Just hope the other end "E" does not play
up as that would require removing the Tx and its wiring from the chassis. It
is now tight up against the bobbin now so not too likely .