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thrustmaster t300rs wheel dead no power

hi
i have a thrustmaster t300rs ffb wheel for pc i had it for 6 months and all of a sudden it died with no power at all
i cracked it open and found that the internal power supply is giving (30 volts) instead of (25 volts).
i replaced it with a laptop power supply with 25volts and 2amps max but still not getting any power and the power light is off.what component might be burnt ?
 

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Welcome to EP!
Looks to me like the negative terminal of that big 2220uF cap hanging off the board has a dry joint with the board, with charring around it and the adjacent black connecting wire. Also, the big electrolytic (C88?) at bottom left seems to have leaked/cooked (or is that just shadow?).
 
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davenn

Moderator
Looks to me like the negative terminal of that big 2220uF cap hanging off the board has a dry joint with the board,

I see that regularly on boards ... it appears to be well soldered on the other side

with charring around it and the adjacent black connecting wire

That ground wire joint does need checking


Also, the big electrolytic (C88?) at bottom left seems to have leaked/cooked (or is that just shadow?).


looks like lots of solder flux

@mohanad please show a better photo of around that cap mounted to the side of the board
and BOTH sides of the board


chances are that the fault is elsewhere
 
t
Welcome to EP!
Looks to me like the negative terminal of that big 2220uF cap hanging off the board has a dry joint with the board, with charring around it and the adjacent black connecting wire. Also, the big electrolytic (C88?) at bottom left seems to have leaked/cooked (or is that just shadow?).

thank you for the reply,i have high res photos of the board but when uploaded it gets compressed,how to get around that ?
 
I see that regularly on boards ... it appears to be well soldered on the other side



That ground wire joint does need checking





looks like lots of solder flux

@mohanad please show a better photo of around that cap mounted to the side of the board
and BOTH sides of the board


chances are that the fault is elsewhere

thank you,i will take close ups og that section,do you know how to upload high res photos this site compress it to a small size?
 

davenn

Moderator
thank you,i will take close ups og that section,do you know how to upload high res photos this site compress it to a small size?

just do closer in images but make sure you keep your focus
the resolution u used on the other pix isn't a problem

programs like IrfanView are great for simple resizing and compressing image files
 
great quality but wrong end of the board ;)
want to see both sides of the board of that top right section where that capacitor is bent over to the side of the board

here you go

i posted 5 photos no.3 is the other side
 

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davenn

Moderator
no.3 is the other side

sorry, I missed that, the pix in the thread were of the other end LOL

it all looks good

so the real problem is ... what has failed ???
can you indicate where you were measuring that 30V and how you think it is supposed to be 25V ?
 
sorry, I missed that, the pix in the thread were of the other end LOL

it all looks good

so the real problem is ... what has failed ???
can you indicate where you were measuring that 30V and how you think it is supposed to be 25V ?

it has an internal power supply written on it output:25 volts and 2 amps when checked with the voltimeter it says 30 volts
 
do you see the plug with the 4 pins,this is where the power supply goes,when connected to the pc the usb sends 5 volts through this plug which goes to the power supply which activates a switch on it (triac) which make the current pass through to the board and the wheel powers on
 

davenn

Moderator
in this pic of yours I see a little solder tail going off to the side .... see the red arrow
probably not a problem as it probably hasn't penetrated the PCB coating, but gently scrape it off anyway

2 1.jpg
 

davenn

Moderator
it has an internal power supply written on it output:25 volts and 2 amps when checked with the voltimeter it says 30 volts

ummm OK

a higher voltage ( open circuit voltage) tends to indicate that it is not being loaded down by the circuit it supplies

The other thing it could be is that the PSU itself has failed and is just putting out unregulated voltage

sooooooo show us the PSU
 
ummm OK

a higher voltage ( open circuit voltage) tends to indicate that it is not being loaded down by the circuit it supplies

The other thing it could be is that the PSU itself has failed and is just putting out unregulated voltage

sooooooo show us the PSU

as i told you i used i laptop psu with 25v and 2amps and hoocked it directly to the board through the 4 pin connector (only used two pins) still i get no power
 

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davenn

Moderator
as i told you i used i laptop psu with 25v and 2amps and hoocked it directly to the board through the 4 pin connector (only used two pins) still i get no power

OK so the PSU is unregulated, it could quite easily show 30V when it's not under load

on this section with the PSU socket .... 1 and 2, which is the 25V pin and which is the control pin ....

33.jpg
 

davenn

Moderator
trying to go beyond those first few components without a service manual or at minimum a schematic is going to make a repair somewhere between difficult and impossible
 
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OK so the PSU is unregulated, it could quite easily show 30V when it's not under load

on this section with the PSU socket .... 1 and 2, which is the 25V pin and which is the control pin ....

View attachment 30689

1 and 2 are the control pins the other two are for 25v,too bad i thought it was fixable i have two of these and both are broken,thank you for your help
 
Can we say it is normal to have a higher viltage under no load condition ? if this is the case then may be one of the caps is bad ?
Whats happens if a cap is bad ?does cut or break the circuit ?
 
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