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Thermal Fuse Ghd please help..

Hi, I have purchased a thermal fuse to repair a pair of Ghd hair straighteners. I have the crimps the insulation sleeving and eyelets. I'm just not sure what wire to connect to the thermal fuse with the crimps. It has to be able to withstand up to 240° heat. It's the red wires in the photo that I need to know what the wire is called... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Amy
 

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Might be easier to make a visit to your local electrician/ appliance repair shop which should have some fibreglass cable for stove/cooker repairs.
 
Mme Amy . . . . . .

If being my situation . . . and MY problem to solve . . . . .

FACTOID . . . . . . . .

The biggest error a person could make in replacing these thermal units is the damaging of the units by the soldering of their connections and damaging the element by excessive heat.
Thus the preferred use of a compressed ring connection to establish a clinched connectivity, thereby no possibility of heat damage.
This methodology, you have already agreed upon.

The connecting wire which is currently in place and in use has been deemed as adequate by the manufacturer.
Examine the length of one wire used and at its mid point in length bend it 90 degrees to get the " feel "of the wire flexure at that point.
Move back to the end of the wire that you are wanting to include in the wire crimp joinure.
Do a like bend at that point and compare the two tests. If the two positions respond alike, all is well to proceed.

Two adverse conditions to watch out for are the softening of the copper and inversely transitioning to either a rosy or darkened copper state.
The other situation is the insulation having hardened to the state of not being able to flex as before or possibly even fracturing / breaking.

In the two latter situations, the overall wire length needs to be cut off and shortened, back to an original state of the wire, that' s usually not being much more than an inch.
With your proper ends prepared by scraping VERY shiny and twisted to bind strands tightly together you are ready to pressure crimp to the thermal fuse lead (s ).

A proper crimping tool should also be used / borrowed, so that the connector is encircled / cradled on one side and then a single centered compression cog comes in to press down into in the center of that area.
Its much akin to a 2 cog gear on one side and a centered single cog centered on the opposite side coming together to fully mesh . . .in comparing to a meshed gear pair.
Pliers and vise grips wont duplicate this action.
Seems like I have seen crimpers available at almost at Dollar store prices.

My crimpers are being akin to this :


omega-BBS_BBP_RLNC_TOOL-HeaterHook-upWireAccessories.jpg


Your forthcoming comment . . . pre-answered . . . . But my wire(s ) length is TOO short to do that .

Then go to its other end and . . . where it wil be cool city . . . . in comparison to the thermal fused end.
There you splice on a like gauge of wire extension, where the temperature experienced there is of less consequence and do a double heat shrink covering, to insulate it.

The other situation / alternative :

This above info was relevant to your NEEDING to crimp connections . . .at the below sources you can get units with a slightly stepped up temp rating and installation is merely by two screw connections to ring terminals.
PLUS amongst all of the supply video tutorials, you should find your same units info on repair as well as the fact that substandard clones are runing around in the marketplace.


GHD . . . . . REPAIR PARTS SUPPLY SOURCES:

<a
href="https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=AwrTcXUAHJxYGJgA4EyJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBsZ29xY3ZzBHNlYwNzZWFyY2gEc2xrA2J1dHRvbg--;_ylc=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-?gprid=JVj6IglyTfqrxGCayt2g.A&pvid=NoxCITIwNi7cpX66UvwsvAHCMjYwMgAAAAAKRNCg&p=Ghd+hair+straighteners+bad+thermal+fuse&fr=crmas&fr2=sb-top-images.search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt#id=11&iurl=http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7etYkpOA3DY/hqdefault.jpg&action=click"

target="_blank" class="externalLink">GHD REPAIR SUPPLY SOURCES</a>



HOWTODOITTOITVIDEOS:







https://youtu.be/O-UvxZomjT8

FAKE . . . . . GHD Units . . . . identifying

https://youtu.be/UWh3OlSgrso


FREEBIES ! . . . . . . . Hook Up Wire

Locate a car stereo aftermarket installation shop ( PLUS all of the wierd stuff that they also pitch, like
THUMPA - THUMPA - BOOOOOM BOOOOOM speakers . . .electric windows . . .doorlocks . . .alarms . . .GPS . . . powered sun roofs . . . auto-cold engine startup . . . . Lamborghini swing up doors . . . ya da . . . ya da . . . yah.)

In their dumpster you should find a constant stream of cast off hook up wire with / or in their installed equipments original packing boxes.

I am now up to a filled 55 gallon white plastic drum, using 1 gallon zip lock bags sorting the colors.
I then only have to select the wire gauge and length needed.
PLUS . . . . most of these wire have their temp rating marked at some point along the wire .


73s de Edd.
 
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Thank you so much for the extremely detailed replies. They've been so helpful and I really appreciate you taking the time out to reply.
In regards to using the hook up cables from car stereo installation... I tried to source it today.. But no joy. Is there any description I can type in online to have this cable delivered to me? Car hook up cable isn't returning many results haha.
 
The reason for giving you so many options is that I thought that at least one of the options would exactly fit your units situation .
There is a possibility that you cut the wires of the old unit about right in the middle and you have found a new unit which is actually just the naked "Little Silver bullet " that will require crimping to a new set of wires, since you have clipped the original whole set of wires to such a shortened condition .
If this is being true , are you sure that the new unit senses for failure at 240° instead of the old units 212 degrees temperature threshold ?
I would just be ordering one of the new ceramic encased units, with the proper wires already connected, with their ring eyelet connecting terminals.
Has testing of the old thermal fuse unit,revealed it to be open circuited, when using an ohmmeter ?
 
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