Technics SL1200/SL1210 headshell problem

[n cook]

Intermittant loss of signal to one channel
I have the service manual for these classic record decks but there's very
little on the tone-arm.
Does anyone know how to remove the collar that locks the standard cartridge
headshell plug/socket to the tone-arm.
The headshell is no longer locked tight, the collar and headshell can move
slightly on the end of the tonearm and only forcing the headshell in a (in
to deck centre ) direction will make reliable contact to the sprung contacts
inside the tone-arm part of the connection.
Or any other advice ?

 

[n cook]

Intermittant loss of signal to one channel
I have the service manual for these classic record decks but there's very
little on the tone-arm.
Does anyone know how to remove the collar that locks the standard cartridge
headshell plug/socket to the tone-arm.
The headshell is no longer locked tight, the collar and headshell can move
slightly on the end of the tonearm and only forcing the headshell in a (in
to deck centre ) direction will make reliable contact to the sprung contacts
inside the tone-arm part of the connection.
Or any other advice ?

I eventually saw 2 watchmakers screws on the under side of the arm and
managed to find a small enough and angled enough screwdriver to remove.
Have now been able to remove the end of the arm. I can only assume that due
to very light spring action on each of the recessed springs that it doesn't
take much bunching of the wires in the arm to interfere with the spring
action so breaking contact.

 

[Arfa Daily]

I eventually saw 2 watchmakers screws on the under side of the arm and
managed to find a small enough and angled enough screwdriver to remove.
Have now been able to remove the end of the arm. I can only assume that
due
to very light spring action on each of the recessed springs that it
doesn't
take much bunching of the wires in the arm to interfere with the spring
action so breaking contact.

If you get stuck with this, the whole tone arm is available from Panasonic
at a very reasonable price - about 30 quid as I recall from last time I had
to get one.

Arfa

 

[n cook]

If you get stuck with this, the whole tone arm is available from Panasonic
at a very reasonable price - about 30 quid as I recall from last time I had
to get one.

Arfa

Wedging a bit of brass shim in there seems to have stopped the problem, the
socket section could waggle in the tube of the tone-arm , now I have to work
out how to put the tiny screws back in place

 

[Arfa Daily]

Wedging a bit of brass shim in there seems to have stopped the problem,
the
socket section could waggle in the tube of the tone-arm , now I have to
work
out how to put the tiny screws back in place

You can actually remove the tone arm from the gimbal mount quite easily, by
slackening the locking nut ( not really a nut 'cause it's round with a slot
in, but I'm sure you know what I mean ) and then taking out the pivot screw.
When you put it back, tighten to the point where you can feel it just start
to pinch in the ball race, then back off about a quarter turn, hold in
place, and retighten the locking nut.

Arfa

 

[n cook]

You can actually remove the tone arm from the gimbal mount quite easily, by
slackening the locking nut ( not really a nut 'cause it's round with a slot
in, but I'm sure you know what I mean ) and then taking out the pivot screw.
When you put it back, tighten to the point where you can feel it just start
to pinch in the ball race, then back off about a quarter turn, hold in
place, and retighten the locking nut.

Arfa

Yes, ta for that, was very much easier than trying to work half-blind upside
down.
When I first read your piece I thought you meant removing the whole arm and
pivot from underneath which I've also never done.
The slotted lock ring+ conical pointed screw is at the very top of the arm
pivot, details again not in the service manual.
I've been wary of messing with these pivots since doing something similar,
years ago, to a different tone-arm pivot, and 20 or so tiny ball bearings
cascaded all over the place.

 

[Arfa Daily]

Yes, ta for that, was very much easier than trying to work half-blind
upside
down.
When I first read your piece I thought you meant removing the whole arm
and
pivot from underneath which I've also never done.
The slotted lock ring+ conical pointed screw is at the very top of the arm
pivot, details again not in the service manual.
I've been wary of messing with these pivots since doing something similar,
years ago, to a different tone-arm pivot, and 20 or so tiny ball bearings
cascaded all over the place.

Yes, I've done it often on these. The ball races on them are proper little
complete items. I see a fair few with the tone arm broken. I do work for a
local Panasonic dealer, and the local DJs who use them, always take them to
him. When you order a new arm, it comes complete with the gimbals, but it's
quite an involved job replacing the whole arm assembly. Much easier to just
leave the existing mount and gimbals in place, and sub the new tone arm in.
I guess that strictly speaking, there's some precise torque level that the
pivot screws should be done up to, so that there is no play, but also,
*zero* friction, or mechanical distortion of the races. Based on the fact
that these things are going to get immediately abused again though, I reckon
that the arm substitution method is perfectly valid.

Arfa