Sturdy Frequency Counter Recommendation

[Leonard Martin]

Hello! I've been reading the mail with pleasure. But I'm sad that it
seems like electronics has progressed so much that it's hard to have fun
with if you're only half-smart, like me. My solution is to work on old
tube radios.

For this I need a frequency counter that goes to maybe 500 MHZ (I might
want to use my ham ticket on VHF someday). I'd like it to be fairly
cheap (no more than $300) and above all reliable and sturdily built. I'd
like it to be new. I want this thing to last!

I've completely lost track of who makes such things and which makers are
good. Would anyone care to recommend a company or model or both? Even
the simplest knowledge would be more than I have now.

Thanks in advance

Leonard

 

[James Sweet]

Hello! I've been reading the mail with pleasure. But I'm sad that it
seems like electronics has progressed so much that it's hard to have fun
with if you're only half-smart, like me. My solution is to work on old
tube radios.

For this I need a frequency counter that goes to maybe 500 MHZ (I might
want to use my ham ticket on VHF someday). I'd like it to be fairly
cheap (no more than $300) and above all reliable and sturdily built. I'd
like it to be new. I want this thing to last!

I've completely lost track of who makes such things and which makers are
good. Would anyone care to recommend a company or model or both? Even
the simplest knowledge would be more than I have now.

Thanks in advance

Leonard

You could look at some older high end counters on ebay, might find a
bargain there.

 

[Mike Berger]

Don't look for a bargain, look for good value. Some of those older
counters are extremely accurate and well made.

 

[DaveM]

Hello! I've been reading the mail with pleasure. But I'm sad that it
seems like electronics has progressed so much that it's hard to have fun
with if you're only half-smart, like me. My solution is to work on old
tube radios.

For this I need a frequency counter that goes to maybe 500 MHZ (I might
want to use my ham ticket on VHF someday). I'd like it to be fairly
cheap (no more than $300) and above all reliable and sturdily built. I'd
like it to be new. I want this thing to last!

I've completely lost track of who makes such things and which makers are
good. Would anyone care to recommend a company or model or both? Even
the simplest knowledge would be more than I have now.

Thanks in advance

Leonard

I recommend that you go for one of the HP 5328A counters that are on Ebay
quite frequently. They are workhorses, very well built, and the military
models with a 500MHz C channel and hi-stability time base are exceptional
values. You should be able to find one of those counters for $75 - $150
easily, and a copy of the manual for $10 (on CD). You'll never be sorry
with one of those units.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Leonard Martin]

I recommend that you go for one of the HP 5328A counters that are on Ebay
quite frequently. They are workhorses, very well built, and the military
models with a 500MHz C channel and hi-stability time base are exceptional
values. You should be able to find one of those counters for $75 - $150
easily, and a copy of the manual for $10 (on CD). You'll never be sorry
with one of those units.

I agree. In fact I did just that 5 years ago! But the HP 5328A I bought
back in 2000 died a couple of weeks ago. That has made me think that
maybe surplus test equipment, especially this model, just doesn't have
much life left in it. In addition, I have had disappointing experiences
buying other test equipment on the main emporium for such, eBay.

So after that experience I would kind of like to buy a NEW basic and
sturdy counter (no fancy menus, please) for $300 or less. In addition to
maybe getting longer life than the 5328A gave me I would like to get a
counter with a smaller footprint on my workbench.

What are the standard bench test equipment brands these days? Does
anyone have any favorite models within those brands?

Leonard

 

[Dr. Anton T. Squeegee]

Hello! I've been reading the mail with pleasure. But I'm sad that it
seems like electronics has progressed so much that it's hard to have fun
with if you're only half-smart, like me. My solution is to work on old
tube radios.

Nothing wrong with that. Many of my fellow hamateur radio folk
feel the same way.

For this I need a frequency counter that goes to maybe 500 MHZ (I might
want to use my ham ticket on VHF someday). I'd like it to be fairly
cheap (no more than $300) and above all reliable and sturdily built. I'd
like it to be new. I want this thing to last!

Well, that being the case... My own choice was a Fluke 1953A that
I got from a local surplus place for about $50. It goes up to over
500MHz on the 'C' input (explanations in a moment). It's built very well
indeed, has a simple front panel, and is relatively easy to service if
something goes phooey.

Failing that, HP, Tektronix, and Optelectronics Corp. all make
(made as well) decent counters. Here are a few sample listings from
Greed-bay of units that I would consider if I needed to shop for one.

http://tinyurl.com/d4e84

http://tinyurl.com/b64tp

http://tinyurl.com/eyw8k

http://tinyurl.com/8n2qg

Another source for such hardware is ham radio swap meets. You can
locate such in one of two ways. First is to try the specialized search
engine at this link:

http://www.arrl.org/hamfests.html

Second would be to locate a ham radio club close to you, and query
some of its members or officers. Listings of clubs may be searched at
this link:

http://www.arrl.org/FandES/field/club/clubsearch.phtml

That should keep you busy for a while. Happy hunting.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

 

[DaveM]

I agree. In fact I did just that 5 years ago! But the HP 5328A I bought
back in 2000 died a couple of weeks ago. That has made me think that
maybe surplus test equipment, especially this model, just doesn't have
much life left in it. In addition, I have had disappointing experiences
buying other test equipment on the main emporium for such, eBay.

So after that experience I would kind of like to buy a NEW basic and
sturdy counter (no fancy menus, please) for $300 or less. In addition to
maybe getting longer life than the 5328A gave me I would like to get a
counter with a smaller footprint on my workbench.

What are the standard bench test equipment brands these days? Does
anyone have any favorite models within those brands?

Leonard
--

Just because your surplus used counter had a failure doesn't mean that a new
one won't fail just as quickly, or much faster. For analogy, would you
throw away your car just because it failed to start the next time you want
to go shopping?

I have two of those surplus HP 5328A counters that I bought in 1996 at a
hamfest in Atlanta, and they're still going strong. Best counters I've ever
used. I don't use them daily, but 2-3 times a week and they've never
failed to perform.

Your counter may be repairable. What failed in the unit, or did you even
bother to investigate? I have a nearly complete unit that I bought just to
have spare parts, but so far, I've never had to use anything from it.
Finding parts for these units is not a big problem as it might be with some
other counters, especially those that are uP driven.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Fred McKenzie]

I agree. In fact I did just that 5 years ago! But the HP 5328A I bought
back in 2000 died a couple of weeks ago. That has made me think that
maybe surplus test equipment, especially this model, just doesn't have
much life left in it. In addition, I have had disappointing experiences
buying other test equipment on the main emporium for such, eBay.

So after that experience I would kind of like to buy a NEW basic and
sturdy counter (no fancy menus, please) for $300 or less. In addition to
maybe getting longer life than the 5328A gave me I would like to get a
counter with a smaller footprint on my workbench.

Leonard-

Your price range dictates buying used. Stick with the higher-end brands
like HP and Fluke if you want reliability, even with older models.

Four or five years ago I purchased a used HP 5334B with the high frequency
and crystal oven options. The only problem has been one that may be
common to your 5328 - an open thermal fuse in the crystal oven. (It turns
out to be unnecessary according to an HP engineer on one of these
newsgroups.) I have a rubidium oscillator to set the timebase using an
oscilloscope, and it is impressive how stable it is. It has been about
three years since I adjusted it, and it is still less than 0.1 Hz off at
10 MHz, or 0.01 ppm.

If you are willing to trade reliability for the smaller footprint and
lower price, there may be some other brands to consider. Two that come to
mind are Startek International Inc. of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, and
Optoelectronics, also of Ft. Lauderdale. (I found both web sites with
Google.)

Fred

 

[Leonard Martin]

Just because your surplus used counter had a failure doesn't mean that a new
one won't fail just as quickly, or much faster. For analogy, would you
throw away your car just because it failed to start the next time you want
to go shopping?

I have two of those surplus HP 5328A counters that I bought in 1996 at a
hamfest in Atlanta, and they're still going strong. Best counters I've ever
used. I don't use them daily, but 2-3 times a week and they've never
failed to perform.

Your counter may be repairable. What failed in the unit, or did you even
bother to investigate? I have a nearly complete unit that I bought just to
have spare parts, but so far, I've never had to use anything from it.
Finding parts for these units is not a big problem as it might be with some
other counters, especially those that are uP driven.

This has been great advice. I realized the next day after I wrote about
the failure of the HP 5328A that just because one fails after 5 years,
that doesn't mean they all will.

You know, it did seem to be the time base that had failed in my 5328A.
Testing showed signals being squared up at the input circuits. The
display was working completely. The unit would just not count anything,
period. I do not feel competent to work on such equipment. My hold on
electronic knowledge has always been shaky. It might go far enough to
fix simple old tube radios, but more complex stuff, either theory or
hands-on troubleshooting techniques, just doesn't stay with me. After
years of breaking electronic things worse trying to fix 'em, I know my
limitations.

Therefore I just threw this fine old piece of equipment away. It was
like parting with a sleek grayhound who just hadn't worked out as a pet.

Leonard

 

[DaveM]

This has been great advice. I realized the next day after I wrote about
the failure of the HP 5328A that just because one fails after 5 years,
that doesn't mean they all will.

You know, it did seem to be the time base that had failed in my 5328A.
Testing showed signals being squared up at the input circuits. The
display was working completely. The unit would just not count anything,
period. I do not feel competent to work on such equipment. My hold on
electronic knowledge has always been shaky. It might go far enough to
fix simple old tube radios, but more complex stuff, either theory or
hands-on troubleshooting techniques, just doesn't stay with me. After
years of breaking electronic things worse trying to fix 'em, I know my
limitations.

Therefore I just threw this fine old piece of equipment away. It was
like parting with a sleek grayhound who just hadn't worked out as a pet.

Leonard
--

Good of you to admit your abilities. Sorry that you threw the old
instrument away.. I would have taken it off your hands in a heartbeat. If
the problem was, in fact, the timebase, it could have been fixed in just a
few minutes.
I have a couple of the HP high stability oscillators that the 5328A counters
use as a timebase oscillator. Am planning to build a GPS-controlled
frequency standard with them. Now, before all you folks start blasting me
about it, I already know about the HP Z3801A GPS receivers. But I want to
build one from scratch, just for the fun of it. I have a GPS receiver
module, a couple oscillators, and some uP's to glue it all together. I'm
thinking about what the software has to do to make it all work. will be an
interesting project, for sure.

Back to your original post, I still recommend another 5328A (or the military
version) as a replacement., for all the reasons already posted. And if you
should have trouble with any of your instruments in the future, please ask
here before doing anything so drastic as trashing it without an attempt at
repair. Even if you decide to trash, I'm sure somebody here would love to
take it off your hands in an attempt to revive.

Cheers
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[James Sweet]

This has been great advice. I realized the next day after I wrote about
the failure of the HP 5328A that just because one fails after 5 years,
that doesn't mean they all will.

You know, it did seem to be the time base that had failed in my 5328A.
Testing showed signals being squared up at the input circuits. The
display was working completely. The unit would just not count anything,
period. I do not feel competent to work on such equipment. My hold on
electronic knowledge has always been shaky. It might go far enough to
fix simple old tube radios, but more complex stuff, either theory or
hands-on troubleshooting techniques, just doesn't stay with me. After
years of breaking electronic things worse trying to fix 'em, I know my
limitations.

Therefore I just threw this fine old piece of equipment away. It was
like parting with a sleek grayhound who just hadn't worked out as a pet.

Leonard

Dang, should have put it on ebay, probably would have got $50 for it as
a parts unit or fixer. I know I would have at least paid shipping to
have it sent to me.

 

[Leonard Martin]

Dang, should have put it on ebay, probably would have got $50 for it as
a parts unit or fixer. I know I would have at least paid shipping to
have it sent to me.

To tell you the truth, I was also angry at it. I still feel guility
though!
It is iust like getting rid of the purebred faithful, but sickly, dog.

Leonard

Leonard

 

[DaveM]

To tell you the truth, I was also angry at it. I still feel guility
though!
It is iust like getting rid of the purebred faithful, but sickly, dog.

Leonard

Yeah, I know what you mean... I did the same sort of thing a few years
ago, but with parts and components that I had accumulated over the years.
Among the things that went into the garbage were a dozen or so Raytheon
CK722 metal case transistors still in their original plastic bubble wrapper.
Collectors' items now!!! Lots of other old-but-nice-to-have transistors,
ICs, etc.. <heavy sigh>
At the time, I was recovering from a divorce that sent me spiraling into
depression, and before I knew what happened, it was too late. I also threw
away a bunch of used, but still good vacuum tubes that would be worth $5 -
$15 each in today's market. I chunked a couple old HP 200CD oscillators
that were on my bench begging to be restored, but, alas......

Anyway, I've learned my lesson, and hope you have too... Even if you
REALLY want to get rid of something, advertise here or on Ebay.. Chances
are that somebody will take it off your hands and you'll make a few bucks in
the process.

Cheers!!!!!!
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!