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Maker Pro

Sony PSP 3003 plaything

N

N_Cook

Arcing and sparking reported. 2x3mm piece of broken off spark erroded
phosphor bronze spring dropped out of the case, on opening. This came from a
2 way power socket of size that could probably take mains V but not 2A it
would seem, wired to the power-in connector and position under the LCD.
Between that and fuse? marking F6602 2.5A on the overlay, a large area of
smoke staining. Cleaning off most of the smoke, one 2 land SMD seems a bit
pitted and which lump is / was? the fuse , some spark erroded pcb trace,
anyone know of a decent pic of this area.
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/images/PSP_fuse/Td-Fuse.jpg
off
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/PSP_fuse_repair.htm
seems a different model, the white block , the 2 wire connector to power
socket is the same
While at it ,the battery only measures mV , will it recover or some sort of
active sw/relay inside?
 
N

N_Cook

Anyone know what a blown one of these tiny sort of TD or LD fuses look like
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/images/PSP_fuse/Ld-Fuse.jpg
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/images/PSP_fuse/Td-Fuse.jpg
a component that size, as far as I can trace, is the only link to the rest
of the mobo and is o/c to ohms and 2V diode test. It is not burnt-pitted as
I thought but is a neat designed pit and otherwise no burnt appearance. Has
a labelled cover blown off , perhaps the fusing element passes through this
pit to the other land. Being black and only x30 scope, difficult to make
out, let alone probe
 
N

N_Cook

Pit was rectangular about 100 x 150 micron, off centre, with a small blob of
ex-molten ? metal, no hole seen . Decided that was the 2.5A fuse not the
5x3.5mm "tensile test piece" shaped intact metal lump nearer the marking.
Under some tinplate screening there were 2 more of these 1.8x.8mm lumps this
time marked LB , not blown apart and 1A on overlay, F0011 open , F7001
closed.
Bridged the first with 3A fuse and second with 1A. Now have current from 5V
supply , pulsing from base level of 5mA to 16mA draw, power sw moved to on
or not, battery in or not. Better than my previous likely timewasting-
inside a Kodak digital camera. Now to find time to track down where the
powerFET is. I would have thought such basic tech info would be out there
somewhere, a "roadmap" of major components, obviously not a schematic
 
M

Meat Plow

Better than my previous likely timewasting- inside a Kodak digital
camera.

Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.
 
N

N_Cook

Meat Plow said:
Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.


At least the one I looked at failed for a respectable reason, Owner decided
to use an opposite polarity supply.
This PSP looks as though it initially failed from pbfitis at the solder
point of internal secondary power connector at the pcb trace, then heat
melted plastic , arcing broke a bit of phosphor bronze . The user accessible
power soocket , unusually, is nicely decoupled from user induced mechanical
failure as it uses wire tails, not soldered to pcb of any sort
 
M

Meat Plow

At least the one I looked at failed for a respectable reason, Owner
decided to use an opposite polarity supply.
This PSP looks as though it initially failed from pbfitis at the solder
point of internal secondary power connector at the pcb trace, then heat
melted plastic , arcing broke a bit of phosphor bronze . The user
accessible power soocket , unusually, is nicely decoupled from user
induced mechanical failure as it uses wire tails, not soldered to pcb of
any sort

I have a Kodak V1253 I'm working on. Waiting on the owner to provide me
with the proprietary interface to USB mini so I can attempt to reflash
the firmware which seems to be corrupted. I have read much negativity
on this particular model mostly firmware-oriented. The camera does just
about everything it's supposed to except take pictures or video. It
doesn't even attempt to enter those functions. And certain functions when
invoked actually invoke different functions than requested. No chance
send back to repair, would cost as much as new. The odd functions plus
all the blogging on camera oddities leads me to think a firmware refresh
or update may cure the thing. If not, the owner doesn't want it back. Has
a nice large panel on the back that could be useful for other stuff.
 
N

N_Cook

Meat Plow said:
I have a Kodak V1253 I'm working on. Waiting on the owner to provide me
with the proprietary interface to USB mini so I can attempt to reflash
the firmware which seems to be corrupted. I have read much negativity
on this particular model mostly firmware-oriented. The camera does just
about everything it's supposed to except take pictures or video. It
doesn't even attempt to enter those functions. And certain functions when
invoked actually invoke different functions than requested. No chance
send back to repair, would cost as much as new. The odd functions plus
all the blogging on camera oddities leads me to think a firmware refresh
or update may cure the thing. If not, the owner doesn't want it back. Has
a nice large panel on the back that could be useful for other stuff.



Hopefully with PSPs , the schottky across the i/p and 2.5A fuse , would
knock out fuse before shottky going o/c, in reverse powering. Kodak seemed
not to have that basic protection. Hot chippery resulted in the kodak case.
At least I learnt how to deal with ultra miniature 0.5mm spcing ribbon
connector ALPS KS 8E302 (30x microscope read this), wedge goes in the other
way to usual and see-saw style grip to the ribbon lands. Nothing elucidatory
googling on that connector system
 
N

N_Cook

I think this "tensile test piece" is the tab of the powerfet, active part
completely blown off the tab and as no trace of die, presumably isolated tab
, as also on a ground plane. Or could the 0V line be switched? Cannot even
see what orientation as no top-side traces to G,S,D and no pads seen.
Desoldering the tab and then desolder wicking does not totally remove the
solder and just a neat solder rectangle on the pcb, very odd.
 
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