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Sir poorcol1964 . . . .
Obviously . . .if the OTHER end of the screw has an accessible Phillis or standard cross slot head, just do your tightening at that end.
Or if . . . .
You just have a few units to deal with, and the situation is dealing with standard machinists profile . . .wherein the
internally installed screw is expected to be extending 2-3 threads out of the nut . . . . . but no more..
Amongst all of my long nosed pliers collection, I have a few that will let each end nib extend down into those slots.
I just hold the open ended handle of the pliers cross handed have them just drop down in the slots and use my second hand to span the very ends of the pliers to compress and hold the nibs down within the slots.
Then both hands rotate the pliers in tightening, until a new grip is required.
Third option is to pick an alum-i-ninny-yum-yum spacer that is already tapped or has a hole within it that just a bit larger than the external thread size of the screw. Then you either use a Dremel with cut off wheel / or / flat mill file to reduce the end of the spacer to that to a reverse of the required mating profile. The other end of the spacer then
is transitioned to a "T" or 'L" profile with an inserted long screw.
Or you chuck it in your adjustable tap wrench . . . or a la Neanderthal style . . . just grab the end with a pair of Vise Grip pliers.
Only now, just now having seen his closely timed Minders answer . . . . I have also done that with a standard screwdriver and a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the central slot IF there is no long extended screw involved, or it can be cut back..
73's de Edd
Obviously . . .if the OTHER end of the screw has an accessible Phillis or standard cross slot head, just do your tightening at that end.
Or if . . . .
You just have a few units to deal with, and the situation is dealing with standard machinists profile . . .wherein the
internally installed screw is expected to be extending 2-3 threads out of the nut . . . . . but no more..
Amongst all of my long nosed pliers collection, I have a few that will let each end nib extend down into those slots.
I just hold the open ended handle of the pliers cross handed have them just drop down in the slots and use my second hand to span the very ends of the pliers to compress and hold the nibs down within the slots.
Then both hands rotate the pliers in tightening, until a new grip is required.
Third option is to pick an alum-i-ninny-yum-yum spacer that is already tapped or has a hole within it that just a bit larger than the external thread size of the screw. Then you either use a Dremel with cut off wheel / or / flat mill file to reduce the end of the spacer to that to a reverse of the required mating profile. The other end of the spacer then
is transitioned to a "T" or 'L" profile with an inserted long screw.
Or you chuck it in your adjustable tap wrench . . . or a la Neanderthal style . . . just grab the end with a pair of Vise Grip pliers.
Only now, just now having seen his closely timed Minders answer . . . . I have also done that with a standard screwdriver and a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the central slot IF there is no long extended screw involved, or it can be cut back..
73's de Edd
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The nuts are to secure brass contacts on the underside of a ruhmkorff induction coil box , the threads protrude about 5mm
If you look on "ebay" or whatever most of the cheap few quid screwdriver sets have the bit you need.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45-Multi...=item2825f3bcaf:g:Uv0AAOSwEZdZ8KP-:rk:32:pf:0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45-Multi...=item2825f3bcaf:g:Uv0AAOSwEZdZ8KP-:rk:32:pf:0
That particular link has many screw head types BUT none for chainring nuts.
As I said, you will more than likely have to make a tool, small ones not easy to find.
davenn
Moderator
actually it does have one bit for that purpose
BUT is it the right size for what the OP needs ??
davenn
Moderator
Nope, chainring nuts are different - the driver for those has 3 tips; two on the outside with a 3rd longer one in between.
The correct name, at least as I know it, for ... ahem, the OP's nut ... is a 'slotted spanner nut' (different to a pin or spanner nut, which has holes, not slots). Strangely enough, the tool is known as a "slotted spanner nut driver"
.Wiha makes some nice ones in smaller sizes, but don't seem to sell a set. Nobody seems to have sold the fully-hollow ones (made to take a normal slotted screwdriver down the centre e.g. for adjusting a screw locked by a slotted spanner nut) for years - mine came from a toolkit I inherited as an apprentice 35 years ago.
i think that somehow its not that simple , looking at the photo size comparison modern 5p coin !
i have 10 to tighten altogether and some of the slots are thinner than 99% of small electrical screwdrivers
i have 10 to tighten altogether and some of the slots are thinner than 99% of small electrical screwdrivers
A device that looks like the spanner used to tighten cutting disks on to an angle grinder seems appropriate.
You could fashion one from a small piece of GRP PCB material and use a couple of small bolts as the 'pins' that protrude: these are actually known as 'straight pin spanners' - filing the sides of the pins flat would give better purchase.
You could fashion one from a small piece of GRP PCB material and use a couple of small bolts as the 'pins' that protrude: these are actually known as 'straight pin spanners' - filing the sides of the pins flat would give better purchase.
Sir poorcol1964 . . . .
M m m m m m m m m . . . . . . . RUHMKORFF COIL . . . . . . (drool )
( I have one of those from a physics lab that's about ( US measurements ) 18in widex 10 in tall x 6 in deep + very Looooooong sparks.
I INITIALLY did not know how much the screw extended through the the nut.
Now . . .knowing its 5 mm . . . and the 18 mm diameter of the 5 Pee.
I would still be rummaging for an ~ 20 mm square of steel of the proper thickness gauge that just snugly fits into the slot of the nut.
Then cut a slot in one side at its center that is a wee bit deeper than the required 5 mm.
Try the unit to confirm fit within the nuts slot width and protruding screws length.
Also, see how much of the excess width of the square on either side, needs to be ground down to mate to the max width of the nut.
Finally drop the tool in place and wind it tight, just as you would do to an old age alarm clock.
Looking at the screw that would be used within that nut, over here on the other side of the pond, we bastard colonists would see that as being right at a 10-32 size screw.and nut.. That's maybe like an # 8 0r 9 metric ?
73's de Edd
.....
M m m m m m m m m . . . . . . . RUHMKORFF COIL . . . . . . (drool )
( I have one of those from a physics lab that's about ( US measurements ) 18in widex 10 in tall x 6 in deep + very Looooooong sparks.
I INITIALLY did not know how much the screw extended through the the nut.
Now . . .knowing its 5 mm . . . and the 18 mm diameter of the 5 Pee.
I would still be rummaging for an ~ 20 mm square of steel of the proper thickness gauge that just snugly fits into the slot of the nut.
Then cut a slot in one side at its center that is a wee bit deeper than the required 5 mm.
Try the unit to confirm fit within the nuts slot width and protruding screws length.
Also, see how much of the excess width of the square on either side, needs to be ground down to mate to the max width of the nut.
Finally drop the tool in place and wind it tight, just as you would do to an old age alarm clock.
Looking at the screw that would be used within that nut, over here on the other side of the pond, we bastard colonists would see that as being right at a 10-32 size screw.and nut.. That's maybe like an # 8 0r 9 metric ?
73's de Edd
.....
Try keyword "destuffing" tool...
----> https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=destuffing+tool&opensearch=true
tool...
----> https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=destuffing+tool&opensearch=true
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