Sir bluesatsuma . . . . . . ( not to be confused with redsatsuma)
Considering that this is the
DAB that has the LCD display of stations.
There is the sealed unit at the far right with its components shown in the GREEN boxed in area.
Also the battery container shown as the
BLUE boxed in area .
Then the cabling out of the
GREEN box going to the left to the
CNT1 connector at far left center.
The "transformer" is actually a filtered DC power supply outputting +7.5 VDC at up to 800 ma max.
ROAD MAP . . . . let this trip begin !
BATTERY OPERATION . . . . .
The battery operated power routing path is thus . . . consulting the
Batt Powered label and its
PINK boxed outline.
NEGATIVE VOLTAGE CONNECTION to the battery, initially goes right and then drops down until it has to veer a sharp right to go into
#3 of DC jack and then up through a leaf switch, that is closed and makes a pass through connection to
#2 and initially routes left and then goes up until it veers left and goes all of the way to the
CNT1 P-GND of the radio.
POSITIVE VOLTAGE CONNECTION to the battery, initially goes right and then drops down until it has to do a sharp left turn to then flow all the way to the left and ends up at the
VCC - IN of
CNT-1 and into the radio.
A.C. LINE POWER OPERATION. . . . .
NEGATIVE CONNECTION . . . . .
Consulting the far right
YELLOW A.C. Line Operated label and its
PINK boxed outline inset.
When you insert the Power connector barrel connector, it makes contact with an appendage of the leaf switch between connections
#2 and #3 at the
BLACK circle point.
That then leaves you with the leaf switch staying opened and your negative connection from the power pack routing power out of #2 connection and flowing left all the way to the
CNT-1 P-GND connection.
Secondarily, your battery's negative connection is opened up, between
#3 to #2.
This is dependent upon the barrel connector . . .being the PROPER outer diameter.
POSITIVE CONNECTION . . . . .
The inner portion of the barrel connector will mate with the center pin of the
DC jack at the
RED circle and you should expect
POSITIVE voltage present at the
#1 connection of the
DC jack. It then routes via the
ORANGE path to the left and then makes an upward bend to connect to a
D200 Schottky steering diode (one - way ) and passes thru and goes up until it takes a sharp bend left and routes all the way to
VCC IN at the
CNT-1
connection.
Like above, you are dependent upon the hole in the center of the inner contact, being of the proper diameter.
QUICK CHECK . . . . .
DC voltage check of the power pack to see if proper polarity of
~7.5 VDC is present at its barrel shell and the inner connector . . .
PASS ?
Plug in connector and do a voltage check at pins 1 and 2 DC jack . . . .
O.K. ?
Then a voltage check at
CNT-1 for the supply voltage.
TRICKY DICKY SITUATIONS . . . .
The power packs wiring right at the connector has
failed from
metal / wire strand fatigue , from bends at the connector from
HIGH usage or connector
YANKS.
The DC jack has been used and experienced enough connector pressures and wiggles, that solder breaks / rings have developed and broken connection(s) at
DC Jack #s . . .1-2-3 ?.
All of this is assuming that you are using
THE ORIGINAL and correct power pack and its plug and that you are not using an improper pack or have you/ or unknown others . . . .been playing Russian Roulette with other power units connected into the unit prior to this one
T h a a a a a a a ass it . . . . .
73's de Edd . . . . .
Two secret rules of success in life:
1. Don't tell people everything you know.
.
