P
PeterD
Idiot.
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Idiot.
H
Hammy
You could redeem yourself by explaining how water has a resistance of
around 10-12 ohms which is what you seem to think based upon your 15A. The
current being kept below the breaker trip level.
You could test your theory by standing in a puddle of water and stickinmg
your tounge in a socket and have your boyfriend stick one probe up your ass
(of his choice) and the other in your mouth. Tell me if all you get is 15A
takeing into acount your resitance between line and ground.
If I dont hear back I guess the experiment was a success at least for the
rest of humanity.
around 10-12 ohms which is what you seem to think based upon your 15A. The
current being kept below the breaker trip level.
You could test your theory by standing in a puddle of water and stickinmg
your tounge in a socket and have your boyfriend stick one probe up your ass
(of his choice) and the other in your mouth. Tell me if all you get is 15A
takeing into acount your resitance between line and ground.
If I dont hear back I guess the experiment was a success at least for the
rest of humanity.
H
Hammy
m II said:
If your going to post a refrence at least have it support your view. Did
you miss this.
The Canadian Electrical Code serves as the basis for wiring regulations
across Canada. Generally, legislation adopts the code by reference, usually
with a schedule of changes that amend the code for local conditions.
If thats to complicated for you each juristiction eventually has the final
say in what they adopt so there is no blanket standardization.Which is what
I said dumb ass.
There is a "US" code book, by those same standards, then. The NFPA puts out
one book and the various jurisdictions pick and choose what parts they want to
incorporate into law. None are forced, in any way, to follow any of it,
though. said:
I'd guess 6/5ths, but I don't even play a transformer even in the movies.
H
Hammy
m II said:
Once again your writing when you didnt read I said there is no
standardization not that there isnt a national book. Same as the US has the
NEC but every justiction is different. If you have a problem with me fine
but dont put words in my mouth.
And for the record I've always been civil and grateful for any advice
unless someone gets to be an obnoxious condesending asshole with me.Show
otherwise?
When have I said I was transformer engineer? You need to get your facts
straight before you start spewing off at the mouth.
H
Hammy
Now, now, Hammy! Are you being anti-gay ?
...Jim Thompson
My apologies to any GAY's ;-)
J
JosephKK
I do believe that the warning, "It ain't so much what you don't know
but what you think you know that just ain't so that kills you."
applies here.
Good on you for shorting circuits that are being worked on.
C
Charlie E.
My folks had an old mobile home that apparently had been made with
aluminum wiring. She complained that half of one side of the house
had no power, so I started testing. Came to one outlet that still had
power, and went back one, and opened it up. It was black inside. It
had come loose and burned, and no one had noticed! I replaced it with
a new Al rated outlet, and started testing and replacing all the
others...
Charlie
B
bud--
Charlie said:
There were enough problems with aluminum wiring used for 15 & 20A branch
circuits (used about 1965-1973) that UL pulled all the listings and
issued new standards - that includes CO/ALR ratings for receptacles and
switches.
The CPSC (U.S. consumer product safety commission) appeared to be headed
for a recall of #12 & #10 aluminum wire, which would have been
enormously expensive. In the inevitable court case, wire was deemed to
not be a consumer product. A lot of testing of aluminum connections had
been done for the CPSC by an independent lab. Recommendations, from an
engineer involved in the testing, are at:
http://www.kinginnovation.com/pdfs/ReducingFire070706.pdf
(The recommendations were around long before the manufacturer came out
with a product.)
One major problem is that a thin insulating oxide layer forms very
rapidly on an aluminum surface. Common to most of the recommended fixes
is to put an antioxide paste (which just keeps oxygen away from the
surface) on the wire and abrade it to remove the oxide. This is done,
for instance, before installing a CO/ALR receptacle.
The author does not like the only wire nuts that are currently UL listed
for aluminum. Recommended are:
http://www.kinginnovation.com/products/electrical-products/alumiconn/
which are also UL listed. They have a screw that digs into the wire
through the oxide. I think it is the same style of splice they use in
the UK.
