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Prewire zone - method?

G

Gus

I have seen it recomended that each window or door contact be run all
the way back to the alarm box. That would take a lot of wire!

The basic zone loop for the windows is a series circuit and the simple
way seems to be to run a loop connecting to each window switch and
back to the box.

This house is going to have a gable roof so there is only one chance
to do this right.

What is the best way to wire a zone?

Thanks,

Gus
 
A

alarman

Gus said:
I have seen it recomended that each window or door contact be run all
the way back to the alarm box. That would take a lot of wire!

The basic zone loop for the windows is a series circuit and the simple
way seems to be to run a loop connecting to each window switch and
back to the box.

This house is going to have a gable roof so there is only one chance
to do this right.

What is the best way to wire a zone?

Gus
The correct way to do it is to run a separate wire from each door and each
window back to the alarm control. This makes troubleshooting much easier,
and allows you to put only one or two contacts on a zone.
js
 
B

Bossman

Gus said:
I have seen it recomended that each window or door contact be run all
the way back to the alarm box. That would take a lot of wire!

The basic zone loop for the windows is a series circuit and the simple
way seems to be to run a loop connecting to each window switch and
back to the box.

This house is going to have a gable roof so there is only one chance
to do this right.

What is the best way to wire a zone?

You said it right, there is only one chance to do this right. If you
never had a problem, series in the wall would work just as well. When
you have a problem, you will wish you had spent the the extra hour or
two and the $25 for the extra wire. In fact, I suggest you use
jacketed 4-conductor on all openings. The additional cost is nothing
and you will be glad you did...when that problem never comes up.

Bossman
 
G

Gus

Thanks JS - one contact per zone!

I will have 5 doors and 15 windows.
I was going to make the decision as to what alarm to buy later but
thought I could make due with a 8 zone unit.

Thanks'Gus
 
G

Gus

Robert: I like the idea of using the expansion modules you suggested.
Would you use one per zone, or each side of a house, or a group of
windows?

If the idea of using these modules is to make trouble shooting easier
then all modules would have to be grouped near the attic access
door....this is a gable roof and I may not be able to crawl very far
to a module. Also the insulation is R-38, about two feet of blown
fiberglass.

I am having a problem finding a expansion zone module on your and
other web sites. I assume these are just some kind ot terminal block.

Thanks for your help, I was thinking of a simple 8 zone alarm.

Gus
 
F

Frank Olson

Gus said:
Robert: I like the idea of using the expansion modules you suggested.
Would you use one per zone, or each side of a house, or a group of
windows?

If the idea of using these modules is to make trouble shooting easier
then all modules would have to be grouped near the attic access
door....this is a gable roof and I may not be able to crawl very far
to a module. Also the insulation is R-38, about two feet of blown
fiberglass.

Zone expanders can be mounted at any location (inside a closet for instance).
You don't even have to know how many you need and can expand the system at any
time (as long as you've run all the individual zone wires to each expander
location). On a three story house, you may require only eight zones for the top
floor for instance. Accessible windows or doors, smoke detectors, and glass
breakage sensors. You may even consider wiring your main control unit in the
master bedroom closet. Don't forget to run some CAT 3 telephone wire from here
to the main telephone drop at the side of the house. On the main level you may
need more zones and I would suggest putting the zone expanders required in a
metal lockable enclosure in another closet on that floor. If you figure you
need an additional power supply, run an 18/2 cable for the low voltage AC you'll
need for it. You can buy enclosures that are sized to accept an additional
battery. Most expandable controls use supervised power supplies. Don' forget
to run an extra 18/2 cable between the main control and any expansion cabinet so
you can common the negatives of the panel's aux power and the extra power
supply. The same goes for the basement. Some clients have opted to build a
"mortgage helper" suite in their home and wiring an expander into it would be an
excellent choice (along with an extra keypad run).

I am having a problem finding a expansion zone module on your and
other web sites. I assume these are just some kind ot terminal block.

There are several other online dealers you might consider as well. Some are
listed here:
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com/buyingonline.htm

Thanks for your help, I was thinking of a simple 8 zone alarm.


Which is *not* a good idea. You can go "cheap" if you want, but I'd suggest
sizing the alarm control to the number of possible zones in the system. The
cost of the control and expansion modules you'll need are not significant. Good
luck!!
 
F

Frank Olson

Gus said:
Thanks JS - one contact per zone!

I will have 5 doors and 15 windows.
I was going to make the decision as to what alarm to buy later but
thought I could make due with a 8 zone unit.


Don't forget smoke and heat detectors. Do you have an attached (or detached)
garage?? You might wish to wire any external man door and contact the windows
there as well. If the garage is detached, a zone expander drop might be
prudent.

Think about where you might want to have keypads as well.
 
A

alarman

Gus said:
Thanks JS - one contact per zone!

I will have 5 doors and 15 windows.
I was going to make the decision as to what alarm to buy later but
thought I could make due with a 8 zone unit.

Gus
1 contact per zone is ideal, but not necessary. The important thing is to
run individual wires to each contact so you have that option. No splices
inside the wall.
js
 
G

Gus

Since I will have 5 doors and 15 windows I thought you just take, for
example, an 8 zone system and divide the number of switches by 8 and
make 8 series loops for 8 zones.

Plus PIRs,smoke & fire detectors.

Now you guys say I should make 20 zones which requires expansion
modules. For a pre-wire I guess a 22/4 cable will be fine to run
between the module and the control box.

You guys have been a great help, I will locate the control box inside
the master bedroom closet and not in the garage. This closet is on
one end of the house and will require long runs for window and door
switches at the far end of the house.
All bedrooms and closets are located on one end of the house and the
garage at the other.

It seems that I should run all the wires to the closet and also put
an expansion module there also since I have no closets closer to the
center of the house.
I will also put an electrical outlet box in the closet.

Thanks again,
Gus
 
G

G. Morgan

For this reason knowledgeable
technicians usually locate the panel in the vicinity of the electrical
breaker panel.


No they don't. Geeze.
 
J

Julian Vivaldi

So i just did a house where the electrical breaker panel is near the back
door which is the end of the kitchen. So i should stick mine near this? I
think its bad enough the electrician stuck it there but why would i want to
do the same? I think it all depends on the house.
 
J

Jackcsg

He said knowledgeable. There you go assuming your part of another group
again.
 
F

Frank Olson

Robert L. Bass said:
Correct. That's the best method. Since you're pre-wiring during
construction it's also quite easy to accomplish. Expansion modules are
relatively inexpensive -- well worth the grief you'll save by doing it
right. :^)


Before you get set on the location, remember that it's a good idea to keep
the earth ground run as short as possible. For this reason knowledgeable
technicians usually locate the panel in the vicinity of the electrical
breaker panel. That also happens to be near where the phone lines enter in
most homes which is another benefit of mounting it there.

That may work in your area of the country, Robbert (and perhaps even
Connecticut) but in Vancouver, most electricians locate the main breaker panel
in the garage. That's *not* the best place to locate the common control for
your security system. It's rare these days to find a system that's been
properly grounded (I find most installers tend to ignore this). Run a stranded
14 gauge wire from the control cabinet to the same ground rod your electrical
contractor provided.

That said, if the breaker panel is in a garage you should either conceal the
panel (see my FAQ for suggested techniques) or relocate it as you mentioned
above.

Don't put the common control in the garage!!
 
G

G. Morgan

He said knowledgeable. There you go assuming your part of another group
again.


Did you get that camera installed yet dopey? I didn't think so. Go
make up more stories about chasing away bad guys with conduit benders,
and implying YOU were the one who took the pictures of the birds
taking quarters. You're the new Bass Jr.
 
G

G. Morgan

So i just did a house where the electrical breaker panel is near the back
door which is the end of the kitchen. So i should stick mine near this?
No.

I think its bad enough the electrician stuck it there but why would i want to
do the same? I think it all depends on the house.

Exactly. You wouldn't. Why would you want someone to be able to
unplug the Rj-31X jack (which goes OUTSIDE of the can everyone), or
beat the hell out of it in the kitchen? Sometimes the breaker panel
just happens to be in the same good place where the control would go,
but locating a control panel based purely on getting a good ground
from the breaker box is nothing short of ridiculous. bAss is an
idiot, don't listen to him.

-Graham
 
J

Julian Vivaldi

Earth ground. bleah. I've had more panels be damaged from the earth ground
than anything.
 
G

G. Morgan

I also said *usually* because it's not a hard and fast rule.


It's not even a consideration for "knowledgeable" installers, much
less a rule (soft or slow, hard or fast). Sell anymore Paradox "dual
tech" DG-75's today? You moron.
 
J

Jackcsg

G. Morgan said:
Did you get that camera installed yet dopey? I didn't think so. Go
make up more stories about chasing away bad guys with conduit benders,
and implying YOU were the one who took the pictures of the birds
taking quarters. You're the new Bass Jr.
It's up and working great there cracker boy.
Who took the pictures smart ass?
Just because you found a link, you have all the answers?
Guess again.
I didn't imply anything....it's factual information.
 
J

Jackcsg

Well if you said "common sense" cracker boy would have been out casted. It's
better to let him argue with everyone so he feels further impotant.
 
G

G. Morgan

Well if you said "common sense" cracker boy would have been out casted.

You're right Bass Junior, I have no common sense. I should put all my
controls by the breaker box. You wanker.
... so he feels further impotant.

Speaking ebonics are we, Junior?
 
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