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Preventing overcharging from solar panel

Why is the 5volt 7805 voltage regulator getting super hot

Because that is the way that those linear regulators work...

If you want 5V out they take the 12V out of the battery and burn the excess 7V off as heat... As the load increases the current rises and more heat is generated... At a low drain the regulator only burns off a fraction of a Watt worth of electricity, as the load increases they an be burning off entire Watts of heat...

For example if the regulator is burning off 7V @ 1 Amp that is 7 Watts of heat it's giving off... But, if it's only burning 7V @ 20mA it is only burning off 0.14 Watts, it's all dependent upon the load you are using...

Get a switching power regulator it will be a lot more efficient and run a whole lot cooler... Like so http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw050
 
Also. Could i get a 7 ah 12 volt battery instead of the 12ah to run a 5volt 0.5 amp device continously during the night when the solar panel is not charging?
Would i get 14 hrs use out of it?
 
Anything else i can use that is not $15?

Sure, it was only an example... If you want efficiency you will have to spend a few dollars either way... There are lots of DC to DC switching modules out of China for a few bucks if you want to wait for them to arrive...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Small...439?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1ec5c61f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-To-DC-Co...247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item484612048f

For some examples there are 100s more...

Could i get a 7 ah 12 volt battery instead of the 12ah to run a 5volt 0.5 amp device continously during the night when the solar panel is not charging?
Would i get 14 hrs use out of it?

With a switching regulator probably, that assumes you can max out the battery charge during the day... Using your existing linear regulator no it will not last the entire 14 hours...
 
Ok, so how would you build this circuit?
I want a 12v 5w solar panel to run/charge a 12v lead acid battery to be connected to a surveillance camera that runs on 5v. The camera supposedly use 0,5amps, probably more at night because of the night vision.
I want this to be able to run continously with the solar panel as the main power source during the day and the battery during the night.
Cost is important and so is realibility.
As you already know, my knowledge is limited so your explanations need to be thorough please.
Thanks
 
Ok, so how would you build this circuit?
I want a 12v 5w solar panel to run/charge a 12v lead acid battery to be connected to a surveillance camera that runs on 5v. The camera supposedly use 0,5amps, probably more at night because of the night vision.
I want this to be able to run continously with the solar panel as the main power source during the day and the battery during the night.
Cost is important and so is realibility.
As you already know, my knowledge is limited so your explanations need to be thorough please.

You are likely to get sticker shock when I tell you the answer since you balked when I pointed you towards a $15 part...

Your 12V 5W solar panel is drastically undersized a 12V 5W panel (that is maximum output under direct full sunlight by the way not real world output) when it's operating at maximum capacity it's pushing 12V at about 417mA... But, sunlight is vary rarely direct and full... So lets knock that down to 12V @ 200mA as an average over the entire day, believe it or not 50% (or less) capacity is not far fetched, especially if the panel is not tracking the sun... So 12V @ 200mA is about 2.4 Watts output... You are running a camera that draws 5V @ 500mA or in other words wants 2.5W of juice... See a problem already? If the conversion from 12V to 5V was no lose you still don't even produce enough energy to actually power the camera unless the panel is running in good lighting conditions, let alone any excess to actually charge the battery... :( There is also the problem that the conversion from 12V to 5V is not perfect, with a good switching regulator you can get about 90%, as it is you are far bellow 90% with your current regulator making things even worse...

Now, you not only need to consider running the camera for those 10 daylight hours you also need to have an excess of power to charge the batteries to run the camera for 14 more hours... AKA you need to gather 24 hours of run time in 10 hours, so at minimum you need to generate 2.4 times what the camera is drawing, and right now you are below even 1 times...

In short without working all the math to do what you want you are going to 'realistically' need about 4 solar panels, 5 or more would be more reliable... But, then again reliable and solar are kinda contradictory, a week of clouds and rain can result in some very unreliable situations even if it was calculated to work with overhead... That is unless that overhead is way overhead, but you don't seem to want to go there as you keep scaling things back.... Ideally you would invest in as many batteries and solar panels as you can realistically justify and do your best to bank as much energy, days worth, when you can and hope it's enough to cost for the low light times... Cutting corner or not making a big overhead will result in unreliable situations...
 
Your 12V 5W solar panel is drastically undersized a 12V 5W panel (that is maximum output under direct full sunlight by the way not real world output)

Actually it can put out 20v+ in direct sunlight.
 
Yes, but you also told me i needed 5 panels to do this.
Did you open the link?

No I didn't open the link, I guessed at the title of the last paragraph I suggested you read and actually got the title dead on right... :rolleyes:

The question is did you, read and fully comprehend that page? Especially the last section?

If the camera is to be left on 24 hours per day then since there are only 4-5 good hours of sunshine per clear day in the UK, the current flowing into the batteries needs to be at least 6 times (24 divided by 4) more than the camera current.

In my case I used different numbers that were based on what you provided aka 10 hours of day light, 14 hours of night and a 500mA load, regardless of the numbers the same rules apply... The equation is simple math, the current flowing from the solar panel into the batteries has to be enough to provide 24 hours of run power after all loses are factored in... In your case to get to that value using 10 hours of sun light you will need at least 3-4 time the rated output of your solar panel... There are two ways to get 3-4 times the power, either either purchase 3 or 4 of the same solar panels and use them all in parallel or you purchase a single new bigger and better one that puts out 3-4 times (or more) the power, something like a 12V 20W solar panel as a starting point number... I suggested 5 or more of your existing ones because on days that you don't get 10 hours of full light you will need more capacity to compensate, 3 might work if you get a good solid days worth of light, 4 would provide a margin of error and 5 would provide even more margin of error... If you use their number of 4-5 hours of light you are looking at about 10+ of your solar panels to get the same output...
 
Actually it can put out 20v+ in direct sunlight.

Voltage is mostly irrelevant it's the overall Wattage rating that we are primarily concerned with when pushing quick numbers...

Also why are we playing games now changing the values when you don't like the answers given?

Your first post was clearly contrary to your new one...

I have a 12volt/5watt solar panel

Do you understand Wattage? And how it relates to the topic at hand?
Do you understand conversion loses?
Do you understand the difference between optimal performance and real world performance?

I will never tell you that you will get the results you want with what you have, because you simply won't... Pesky laws of physics/nature or whatever get in the way... Mostly that one where you can't create energy from nothing...
Sorry that isn't the answer you want to hear but it's the truth regardless...
 
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Not playing games.
Just because i'm not a "super electronics genius" like yourself!, i was just trying to figure this out.
Like i tried to explain to you earlier, my knowledge of electronics are limited because i never went to school for it.
No reason for you to put me down like that anyway.
I thought these forums were for people that wanted to help other people, not make them feel like a dumbass!
So, if you are gonna be like that, waste your comments elsewhere.
Thanks
 
I thought these forums were for people that wanted to help other people, not make them feel like a dumbass!

I attempted to describe it in detail nicely, then you decided to argue and post a snide remark, and I quote "Did you open the link?" suggesting that I didn't know what I was talking about and you knew better... Only then did I push back in a snide way...

And btw, a 12v solar panel does put out alot more voltage in sunlight than it's rated for, the wattage i don't know.
Yes, I'm quite aware of how they work, may I advise you to follow the page you suggested I look at and follow it to THIS page... This is why you can't use the optimum values as the true output of the panel... Look the graphs, you will see that as the current increases the output voltage drops... You will see that they find a 'optimal' point on that chart and that is what they call the 'operational' area of the panel, this is where they measure the Wattage, at the panels maximum output... This is why in this case Wattage is the number we are most concerned about, it represents the absolute maximum power the panel can output under perfect conditions... This is the base number we need to start with...

BTW I never went to school for electronics either, and I will clue you in on something... You can learn a lot more if you are humble and listen vs arguing about what you know not...
 
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I'm not arguing anything and i'm usually very humble. I do have a hard time when people are trying to make me look stupid just because they have some more knowledge in the topic at hand.( rolling eyes for example).
I didn't mean to sound "snide" with the question" did you open the link". I thought you missed it because of my " so, this is not possible" question.

You still didn't tell me how you would set this up if it was your project.

I'm sorry if I came across like that.

Are you saying that I need a panel with more wattage to make this work, because I'm not getting 4 more panels for this?
Btw I live in Texas with alot of sunlight available.
 
You still didn't tell me how you would set this up if it was your project.

I I wanted reliability I would get a much larger solar panel... Probably upwards of 40 or even 50 watts... And enough battery reserve to run without sun for 2 or 3 days something like a 12V @ 40Ah arrangement or more... As well as using a switching regulator for less lose...

Btw I live in Texas with alot of sunlight available.
No matter where you are you won't much 'direct' sunlight that will power the panel at full capacity unless you track the sun with your panel... You will not be getting the 10 hours you think, more like 5 maybe 6 on average... All this has to be factored in when you are sizing the solar panel...

As it stands and I have said, the panel you have not simply won't do it, it simply does not put out enough power... It might power the camera during those 5 or 6 hours of daylight on a sunny day (might being the keyword) but it certainly is not going to do what you want... If you don't want to get 4 (or more) of your existing panels or get a much larger panel, well then to be blunt give up now before you waste anymore time...

As the end of the day, you need to exponentially increase the solar power, and as I said there are two ways to do that, get multiple panels or get a much larger one... Short of doing that it's not going to work as you want...

The dilemma you are facing is why solar isn't taking off, it takes a significant investment to obtain a usable power level... Great in space where there is more sunlight and the vessels are optimized for optimum power savings, not so good on the surface where we are power hungry, that is unless you want to invest the money and time to do it right...
 
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Yep, it's just another linear regulator... You need a switching regulator if you want less heat and more efficiency...

But, this brings up something that irks me, you immediately balked about the price of the switching regulator I suggested, so I suggested a few lower cost ones, but now inquire about a part that cost even more then the one you balked about...

The one I suggested $16.25 delivered ($15 + $1.25 shipping)

The one you linked $16.47 delivered ($9.48 with $6.99 shipping)

It's not a store stocked part so you can't pick it up, you can of course get it cheaper at other sources though, but just the same it's not going to help you in this case that much over a generic 7805...

Be aware that even if you switch in on and off, your run time will be measured as a percentage of the sunlight that day... Get 5 hours of sunlight you might get 4 hours of camera on time based on the numbers you have provided... The solar cell is simply way under rated for this application...
 
I didn't pay close enough attention about the radio shack one. Thought I could go pick it up.
This whole thing is starting to become too costly and unefficient anyway it seems like..
The solar panels that I would have to get are too big for what I would like.
Thanks anyway.
 
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