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picoPSU 120 switch on 12V rail

Hey, which i'll introduce with

eh well i'm not to familiar with electronics but i do understand all the basics... and i have a problem... which i'll introduce with a explanation on the projected working on to explain why i need this.

we'll me and a friend are working on a very specific (audio) project for which we use a mainboard (gigabyte GA-H55M-(X)) with 1 DDR3 module of least available amount memory (prosuming this is 1GB, don't think 512 DDR3 is made (anymore??))

Also we'll put all mainboard-setting to a bare minimal, (CPU, GPU, voltage freq.) pulling of the cpu fan, which leads to why a load of approx 25W in total.

As said this is for an audio project, all is in favor of increasing audio quality.
to power this all i need as special (fanless ofcourse minimalistic CPU) so ofcourse we headed towards the picoPSU's

So we got us some picoPSU-120's but they don't work, none of them and we have 5 ... We looked into everything.. and at this moment it seems most likely that the problem is that the 120 (instead of the 160-XT) has a switched 12V rail.

So i contacted minibox on the issue and basically they denied it having a switch untill i presented them with there own users manual, which clearly states it does.
All i need to know from them (or anyone) is a what load does the power supply switch on.
But they have stopped reply-ing...

so is anyone here familiar with the minimal load needed... ?

you could help me al LOT!!

kind greatings

Matt

and maybe a way around this? as it is likely that the draw load of our setup is to low for this PSU.
 

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You said it 'does not work' but have not provided details in why or how.
Can you please elaborate?
 
Typically there is a pin that will need to be tied to 0V to turn the PSU on, but this should not be a problem when used on a mainboard. (As the powerswitch will allow the board to pull this pin down which should enable the remaining outputs)
I own the 120 and have not had any problems.

Edit: http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d8/d841da87_ATX20Pinout.jpeg

do you know whitch pin that is? 'cause could very well be that due to the low load that mainboard is not able to pull this pin..with a way around it like this, i wouldn't need to know that load.

grtz

Matt
 
You said it 'does not work' but have not provided details in why or how.
Can you please elaborate?

at this point i can only say that we don't get the mainboard to boot-up with this psu (with these settings). problem is that i don't have them in my possession yet and i can only work with what i've been told. after the weekend i'll have one and in possession and i can elaborate some more..
it is a 20 pin psu, but on a 24 pin board. which is supposed to work ( also according to minibox) without problems but it doesn't. he adapted it to a proper 24 pin but this also didn't have any results.
 
The link in my first post shows you what pins are supposed to do what.
the 5V standby is initially all that is required and should always be on if power is given to the PSU. When the power button is pressed, the 5V standby pin provides enough juice for the board to pull the enable pin to ground to turn on the rest of the pins on the power supply.

I hate to say it, but either the board you are trying to power is bunk, or the guy currently in possession is missing something... (ie, perhaps power button is plugged in the wrong spot on the main board)
 
The link in my first post shows you what pins are supposed to do what.
the 5V standby is initially all that is required and should always be on if power is given to the PSU. When the power button is pressed, the 5V standby pin provides enough juice for the board to pull the enable pin to ground to turn on the rest of the pins on the power supply.

I hate to say it, but either the board you are trying to power is bunk, or the guy currently in possession is missing something... (ie, perhaps power button is plugged in the wrong spot on the main board)

no need to hate to say it.

first option is unlikely as it is now used with a regular psu and it works fine.
so it will very likely be the 2e option, which i find rather plausible.

i will just hold off this topic till after the weekend and i'll do some measurements myself and try to figure out what is up. i'll be back ;)
 
Ensure the 12V source is good as well that you are using. The pages you supplied tell you what the requirements are for amperage.
The Laptop adaptor will tell you what it can supply.

Alternatively, I have used an old desktop computer power supply to provide 12V for experiments... just tie the green and black wire together to turn the power supply on.
Then use the yellow and black wire as the 12V source..
(I used it last night to power an automotive emergency air pump which draws a few amps)
 
Um Yes I agree with Gryd3 seems strange 5 of them don't work.
Edit: forget this, posted at same time as other replies.
 
Ensure the 12V source is good as well that you are using. The pages you supplied tell you what the requirements are for amperage.
The Laptop adaptor will tell you what it can supply.

Alternatively, I have used an old desktop computer power supply to provide 12V for experiments... just tie the green and black wire together to turn the power supply on.
Then use the yellow and black wire as the 12V source..
(I used it last night to power an automotive emergency air pump which draws a few amps)

i have one laying around somewhere here, i use it to charge my LiPO batteries for model-airplains and stuff. i'll use that... to start with.
this won't be an options for later on but at least it will give some idea of what is going on.

thanks for all the feedback !
 
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