PCB Toner transfer?

[Hammy]

I have a HP LASER JET 1018 that the toner is running out. I see
staples and the regular chains sell replacements for in excess of
$100.00. That is more then what I paid for the printer $48.00.

I was wondering if anybody tried any of these discount toners like
this.

http://www.123inkcartridges.ca/hp-toner-cartridges/Laserjet-1018.html

This is only $25.00.

If they have does it still work are do they use some kind of sub
standard toner and the process wont work with the cheap toner? I know
people report problems with some of the brother printers is this
because of the toner or the printer.

 

[pimpom]

I have a HP LASER JET 1018 that the toner is running out. I see
staples and the regular chains sell replacements for in excess
of
$100.00. That is more then what I paid for the printer $48.00.

I was wondering if anybody tried any of these discount toners
like
this.

http://www.123inkcartridges.ca/hp-toner-cartridges/Laserjet-1018.html

This is only $25.00.

If they have does it still work are do they use some kind of
sub
standard toner and the process wont work with the cheap toner?
I know
people report problems with some of the brother printers is
this
because of the toner or the printer.

My printing needs are light and I don't use third-party toners,
but I know several people who use them regularly. Some are very
good and others are acceptable. Some of them also buy the toner
powder and refill the cartridges themselves. Output quality
varies but, as with inkjet refills, it's usually quite good as
long as care and common sense are applied. (I've done it myself
once). The cost comes to the equivalent of about $3-5 US per
cartridge.

 

[Hammy]

I've yet to encounter a problem with cheaper toner cartridges in my
Brother laser printer.

I also used "remanufactured" cartridges in my HP LJ III until it died
of old age.

John

Thanks for the input.

For $25 bucks I'll give it a try. I'll get some ink for my Cannon
printer too. Cartridges there are only $6 for all 4 colors.

 

[Hammy]

My printing needs are light and I don't use third-party toners,
but I know several people who use them regularly. Some are very
good and others are acceptable. Some of them also buy the toner
powder and refill the cartridges themselves. Output quality
varies but, as with inkjet refills, it's usually quite good as
long as care and common sense are applied. (I've done it myself
once). The cost comes to the equivalent of about $3-5 US per
cartridge.

Just an update.

The cheap toner does work. I used it so far to do a multiple output
10W flyback. There doesnt seem to be any quality difference in the
toner. Traces to 8mil with a TPS40210 in a 10 pin power pad MSOP.

So anyone else using a 1018 for PCB toner transfer method save
yourself a couple of bucks.

 

[pimpom]

Just an update.

The cheap toner does work. I used it so far to do a multiple
output
10W flyback. There doesnt seem to be any quality difference in
the
toner. Traces to 8mil with a TPS40210 in a 10 pin power pad
MSOP.

So anyone else using a 1018 for PCB toner transfer method save
yourself a couple of bucks.

Somehow I missed the "PCB" part in the subject line earlier. I
did notice the "toner transfer" part and at first thought that it
was for transferring PCB art work to Cu-clad board. But when
there was no mention of PCBs in the message body, I thought you
were talking about general printing jobs on paper and the
"transfer" in the subject line was just a poor choice of
expression for changing the toner cartridge. No, I wasn't drunk.


Anyway, can you tell me what medium you use for printing? Are
special media specifically meant for transfer to PCBs common
nowadays? I ask because I use the toner transfer method from time
to time, but in the remote location where I live, I'm having a
hard time getting suitable media consistently.

 

[Hammy]

Somehow I missed the "PCB" part in the subject line earlier. I
did notice the "toner transfer" part and at first thought that it
was for transferring PCB art work to Cu-clad board. But when
there was no mention of PCBs in the message body, I thought you
were talking about general printing jobs on paper and the
"transfer" in the subject line was just a poor choice of
expression for changing the toner cartridge. No, I wasn't drunk.


Anyway, can you tell me what medium you use for printing? Are
special media specifically meant for transfer to PCBs common
nowadays? I ask because I use the toner transfer method from time
to time, but in the remote location where I live, I'm having a
hard time getting suitable media consistently.

I've been using staples "Photo Glossy Paper" item#471861. I've heard
people have used magazine paper but I stick with what I know works.

I get thirty sheets for about ten bucks; multiple PCB's can fit on one
piece for me anyway's, most of my PCB's are as small as I can get
them. The flyback I just did is 1.8" x 2.9".

 

[Jamie]

This is the good stuff:
http://www.techniks.com/how_to.htm
http://google.com/search?q=site:allelectronics.com+"+Press-n-Peel





My first efforts were with clay-covered paper
(the glossy stuff, like magazine pages).
I got advertising flyers in the mail that were blank on one side
and I used those.
Tom Gootee's page on this is an old standard:
http://google.com/search?q=cache:_V...*-*+Glossy+brush+*-*-*-transparent+Persulfate
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

Soaking the paper thoroughly in warm water
is what makes it easy to get off.
Soaking it again if it isn't all coming off is the trick.

An old thread on this:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....9491/e7e4040e8e34cdf5?q=z+blue.stuff+Jetprint

Inkjet glossy Photo paper!., Print on the glossy side. Iron on. Its
water soluble.

Works a treat for prototyping or single unit/home project.

 

[Hammy]

Inkjet glossy Photo paper!., Print on the glossy side. Iron on. Its
water soluble.

Works a treat for prototyping or single unit/home project.

The only PITA I find is getting that last thin transparent when wet
coat of paper off. The link JeffM posted has a possible solution I'll
try next time.

Alan said

 

[pimpom]

I had good success using the backing sheet from Avery Labels
(after I
used the labels). I used transparent tape to tape the backing
sheet
to a sheet of plain copy paper so it would feed through the
printer.
Temperature and pressure of the iron used for transfer to
copper are
the hardest parts of the process to get right. The label
backing
sheet seems to need less heat and pressure than photo paper.
The
Press'n'Peel sheets also make sharp images.

I've experimented on and off with release paper too, either
peeled off the back of sticker paper or bought separately from
local silkscreen printing shops. The advantage of using such
non-stick (teflon coated?) material is that it peels off cleanly
after ironing. But, as you implied, it's too slippery to feed
into a printer by itself.

The release paper backing of some sticker papers are also
non-stick on the back side and I've used those without peeling
off the front (normal paper) side, with limited success. They go
in, but are still too slippery to feed to the exit rollers
reliably in my LJ1020 printer.

I've also tried hard glossy paper and they transfer well but, as
a lot of people will undoubtedly have experienced, getting it all
off again can be a real pain.

 

[pimpom]

The only PITA I find is getting that last thin transparent when
wet
coat of paper off. The link JeffM posted has a possible
solution I'll
try next time.

Alan said

That sound like it's worth trying. MS Word prints a blank page
without protesting or the need to put a dot somewhere, at least
with my LJ1020 printer.

 

[pimpom]

This is the good stuff:
http://www.techniks.com/how_to.htm
http://google.com/search?q=site:allelectronics.com+"+Press-n-Peel

My first efforts were with clay-covered paper
(the glossy stuff, like magazine pages).
I got advertising flyers in the mail that were blank on one
side
and I used those.

I've used several types of glossy paper and the transfer goes
well with most of them, but removing the paper is the PITA.

Your use of the term "clay-covered" (I didn't know they are
called that) reminds me of something. I once bought a blank sheet
of sticker paper from a small local stationery shop with the
intention of using the release paper backing for toner transfer.
On close examination, the surface looked different from other
glossy types. It was smooth and somewhat glossy, but there seemed
to be a surface coating that somehow looked as if it was not very
tightly bound to the paper substrate.

I tried it and it worked very well. The paper came off much more
easily after ironing than with other types, and there's no feed
problem as with teflon-coated paper. I exclaimed a silent
'Eureka!'. But alas, I bought just that one sheet and the shop
had disposed of the few sample sheets they had. They said that
they have no intention of stocking that type again as there's
very little demand for it.