-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
Are you comfortable working with dangerous high voltages? If so you can measure the AC input, DC after the filter capacitor and DC at the output.
There are probably components on the reverse side of that board too - can we see a pic of the reverse side?
There are probably components on the reverse side of that board too - can we see a pic of the reverse side?
It depends but generally Yes i am comfortable working with dangerous high voltage, depending on the process I know when its not my battle and I'm conservative with not moving forward(I've been shocked before) . I forgot to mention that it is powerd by 12V 7A SLA battery. Below pics of the back.
I appreciate your willingness to help me out
I appreciate your willingness to help me out
So it's an inverter, not a mains powered supply..??
More details...where is it from? brand? model no.? what is it's problem?
My apologies for being so vague . The reason for being vague was due to getting only one response and no solutions to my original post related to the issue I'm having. I thought it would be best to start from the pcb power supply than work my way through the device with hopes of isolating the issue. I'm not sure if maybe the information I provided was shit and inadequate to trouble shoot, in no way do I wish being that guy. I'm grateful for people's free time and in no way do intend to waste anyone time. nonetheless I decided to tackle the issue starting at the pcb powersupply than moving to the main motherboard. With that being said, the power supply shown is for my ion pathfinder charger 2 Bluetooth speaker. It was working fine until it just wouldn't power up. It started with not being able to charge and only working when plugged in than eventually not turning on (this happened fairly quickly within a span of week). The speaker was relatively new and was used very light (maybe 20 hours , probably less ). The first thing I did was check the fuse was not blown. I reached out to customer service and was told it was the battery, which I was skeptical as I had checked the battery using a multi meter and I charged it using a battery tender Jr. They sent me a new battery and was nit surprised that it would not turn on. I reached out again but was basically told to kick rocks as the speaker had a 30 day warranty. I was referred to there service center that was going to charge me close to what I paid for not including shipping the device which I would have to eat. I basically told them to kick rocks and told them I would try to fix it myself, I asked for drawing and schematics but was told that they could not locate them (escaladed to 2 layers of supervisors).
Can you help me in determining if the pcb power supply is bad? Whats the quickest way to check without checking every single component??
Are you in a rush?
The quickest way is to check the input voltage and output voltage.
Martin
The PSU will have a rating plate on it indicating its output voltage and current - can we see that please?
Obvious the first check would be to test that it is outputting that voltage and that it can maintain that voltage under load. If it can then the PSU is ok (of course). Have you tried using a different power pack to power your device (one of the same voltage/current rating of course)? This is another simple method to prove go/no-go.
Once you have eliminated the PSU as the problem we can move to the next stage.
Obvious the first check would be to test that it is outputting that voltage and that it can maintain that voltage under load. If it can then the PSU is ok (of course). Have you tried using a different power pack to power your device (one of the same voltage/current rating of course)? This is another simple method to prove go/no-go.
Once you have eliminated the PSU as the problem we can move to the next stage.
Battery issues are very common in this type of device - despite measuring 12V you have to load the battery to determine if it's holding a charge and if the device has been left 'trickle charging' for extended periods of time it is quite possible that the battery is defective.
When you got the replacement did you install it correctly (i.e. polarity sensitive)? Even a momentary mis-connection can cause problems and it's better we know now than have to discover this later.
The battery (try both the old and new) should be able to power a typical car light bulb (say 12V 5W side light) for at least 10 hours when fully charged and this would be a good way to test the capacity of your existing battery and the new one. If you can charge the battery and then put such a lamp on it then let us know how long it stays lit for.
If the battery isn't charging then you have another issue all together - and I'm thinking this may be the case hence your post - but alternative chargers for small lead acid cells aren't expensive and you could use one appropriately to charge the batteries in the event we can't effect a repair solution.
Similar threads
- Sylvia Else
- Electronic Design
