Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Panasonic SA-HE200 AVR - "Overload" condition fix

I went to the link referenced earlier on the Canadian website but did not find the parts. Are they still there or is there another place or part I can use to replace both MOSFETs?

Looks like they ran out. You could email them to be sure.

No, I wouldn't sub the part. It's fairly complex.

You can search in Google for RSN310R37A .

Back when I did this repair, I also email chatted with a knowledgeable person at:

http://multielectronicscity.com/product.php?productid=357&cat=0&page=1

Back then, he said he had some too. I forget why I ended up getting them at the other place ... I think I just had to choose one. I suggest you Contact them and make sure they really have one in stock (this part is getting rare I think).
 
Looks like they ran out. You could email them to be sure.

No, I wouldn't sub the part. It's fairly complex.

You can search in Google for RSN310R37A .

Back when I did this repair, I also email chatted with a knowledgeable person at:

http://multielectronicscity.com/product.php?productid=357&cat=0&page=1

Back then, he said he had some too. I forget why I ended up getting them at the other place ... I think I just had to choose one. I suggest you Contact them and make sure they really have one in stock (this part is getting rare I think).

Would I be able to use this part for both IC601 and IC602 MOSFETs if I want to replace both?
 
Would I be able to use this part for both IC601 and IC602 MOSFETs if I want to replace both?

Yes, they are the same part and are interchangeable.

However, if they are both bad, you might have some other problem. Or, were you thinking of just replacing them both while you are in there (so you only have to take it apart once)?

Personally, I'm not sure I would spend more than $50 to fix this amp. While it was $300 new, a cheap new DD 5.1 amp is now only about $150. A pretty nice one (with HDMI) is $250.

But, if you are good with electronics repair and look at it like a challenge, it's a nice project. But if that's the case, isn't part of the fun trying to find the one bad part. :)
 
Yes, they are the same part and are interchangeable.

However, if they are both bad, you might have some other problem. Or, were you thinking of just replacing them both while you are in there (so you only have to take it apart once)?

Personally, I'm not sure I would spend more than $50 to fix this amp. While it was $300 new, a cheap new DD 5.1 amp is now only about $150. A pretty nice one (with HDMI) is $250.

But, if you are good with electronics repair and look at it like a challenge, it's a nice project. But if that's the case, isn't part of the fun trying to find the one bad part. :)

I guess this shows my limited electronics repair knowledge, but what would be the easiest way to determine which one is bad? First thought was to just let the amp run until overload comes on and feel which MOSFET is overheated, with the amp unplugged of course.

I'd love to get this thing working again. I know it still works and isn't fried. I miss my Blu Ray sounds blasting the neighbors.
 
I guess this shows my limited electronics repair knowledge, but what would be the easiest way to determine which one is bad? First thought was to just let the amp run until overload comes on and feel which MOSFET is overheated, with the amp unplugged of course.

I'd love to get this thing working again. I know it still works and isn't fried. I miss my Blu Ray sounds blasting the neighbors.

Well, if you read the first post, it describes how to tell (reading the voltages with a volt-meter). If using temperature, I found (when in Overload condition), the good one is warmer (because it's still working). The bad one is cooler because it shut-down.

It's hard to imagine, but nice audio/video gear can become outdated. This amp is better suited for a DVD DolbyDigital 5.1 system, mainly because it's missing HDMI. I moved mine to our "work-out room" along with the old (but perfectly good) DVD player (circa 2003) plasma and (720p) DVR. Everything is connected via Component or Digital Optical/Coax.

To get the most from Blu-Ray, you should use HDMI (1.3 or higher). This enables getting:
Dolby Digital TrueHD
DTS Master Audio
... to the amp. Also, FullHD 1080p resolution to the display. If your display also has HDMI, you can use the Amp as the "central controller" and run just one HDMI cable to the display.

There are many entry level AVRs. I love my Onkyo 607. The 608 is the new model.
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR60...FOL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1291578604&sr=8-1
New for 2010, even the 5-Series (508) is fairly full featured, but notice the power is lower.
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR50...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1291578709&sr=8-1

Since Circuit City closed, Best Buy carrys Onkyo now. If you get a model without an internal fan, I suggest you add an "external component cooler fan" to the top.
 
Last edited:
I thought I'd take a moment to share my experiences with this amp. I received this from my father saying it was broken, but perhaps i'd like to try and fix it? Indeed I would, thanks to this thread.

It was of course experiencing the dreaded overload problem. It would work for a little while (until it got warm), then start overloading almost immediately. A quick probe with the DMM showed that IC601 was popping for me. I ordered a replacement FET from that canadian supplier along with some new thermal compound from newegg.

After installing the new FET, unfortunately the AMP still went into overload, albeit much later and in more extreme circumstances. Now the amp only overloaded if played for an hour or so with a DVD player sitting directly on top (and thereby blocking the intake vent). I needed an amp that is good to go even in an entertainment center, so a little more investigation was necessary.

I thought perhaps I had been a little scant with the thermal compound, so I took the heat sink out and investigated. Indeed I had, but only because the mounting system for these FETs (one screw on either side) is not nearly robust enough to make good even contact with the heatsink. At least not by CPU heatsink standards. Anyway, I applied more thermal compound and that helped some, but I was still having some overload problems in extreme circumstances. My last step was to replace the fan with a permanently running stealth fan. Unfortunately, the fan driver circuit on the AMP mainboard does NOT like having the fan removed, and goes immediately into overload to protect the FETs from possible overheating. The final solution, cheesy enough, was to have a always-on fan mounted to the chassis, and the original fan mounted to the bottom of the case inside the amp and connected to the mainboard. Now the original fan turns on whenever the amp tells in to, although it doesn't do much.

After these improvements, the amp runs pretty cool all the time, and I haven't had another overload since. Yes, IC602 is probably on its way out the door, but my fan solution should buy at least a couple years of life before it goes.

Areas for improvement:
1) someone could look at the fan sense circuit and figure out how to trick it into turning on all the time. Probably a fairly simple mainboard mod, but I don't have the time to tinker that much
2) replace the original fan with a dummy load? I tried a resistor dummy load of 150 ohms (which is what the stock fan read with a DMM), but it didn't work for some reason. Perhaps a different resistor value or something would work better.
3) rig up some brackets or something to get those FETs pressed down onto the heatsink better for better thermal contact. The thermal compound is doing way too much of the heat transfer right now.

Tips to others:
1) careful not to over tighten the screws that mount the FETs to the heatsink. The heatsink is made of aluminum, and those bad boys will strip easily. I stripped one, and had to go with a bigger screw to get it mounted again.
2) use a dummy load when testing your mods. These FETs can pop when they're overheating, and you could damage your speakers. I like the DIY dummy load here (though i didn't need one as I had some crappy old speakers to use for testing)

For the electronics geek this really isn't a bad project, though you may have some fiddling to do to get everything dialed in.

Thanks for the info Tesla and others. My entertainment center and I thank you, though my wife, dog, and child might resent you a little bit.
 
Hello, i have overload problem in my SA-HE200

I have probe to desolder IC601and IC602. First, i only removed IC602 but overload continue. Then, i have removed IC601 too, and the device power up correctly.

I thougt mosfet in IC601 was damaged, but if i solder the mosfet "good" (IC602) in IC601 socket, the device show overload again.

Finally, i only solder mosfet IC602 and device opwer up correctly but it does not give sound for speakers.

I think mosfet is not the problem because i have changed one for other and i get the problem in IC601.

What do you think about this?

What can i probe?

Sorry for my bad english
 
Hi, I registered to the forum just to post my experience, after reading this forum and working with my AVR unit.

I bought an used Panasonic SA-HE200 online, the seller sold it very cheap because it was already in the OVERLOAD condition; the RSN310R37A simply could not be found for sale anywhere in my country. I decided to try my luck anyway. I bought from aliexpress one RSN310R37A, and after the log wait (I live in Brazil) I could finally replace IC602, but after powering on the unit, it still went into OVERLOAD after some time turned on, and it didn't played anything in the speakers even before "overloading". I went online again and this time I went ahead and ordered 2 RSN310R37A again from the same store, and, after the long wait, I replaced the IC I haven't replaced last time (IC601 this time) and Voilà, the system played perfectly fine! While waiting for the second set of IC's, I digged online and bought 2 Sony full range speakers to use in the front channels and a Sony Muteki active subwoofer, and boy, this set sounds so f***ing good now. I'm amazed with the sound quality my set is giving. Just to make it clear, I replaced the thermal compound with a better one too.

This forum helped me a lot in having confidence in replacing those IC's, thanks.
 
Hello, i have overload problem in my SA-HE200

I have probe to desolder IC601and IC602. First, i only removed IC602 but overload continue. Then, i have removed IC601 too, and the device power up correctly.

I thougt mosfet in IC601 was damaged, but if i solder the mosfet "good" (IC602) in IC601 socket, the device show overload again.

Finally, i only solder mosfet IC602 and device opwer up correctly but it does not give sound for speakers.

I think mosfet is not the problem because i have changed one for other and i get the problem in IC601.

What do you think about this?

What can i probe?

Sorry for my bad english

I would go ahead and replaced both, I don't know the details, but I believe this system works with a "balance" between all channels, depending on your set (impedance), it might not play anything with an IC removed. And most importantly, failure on those IC's is obviously a trend on those systems, so, if I was in your place I woulg go ahead and replace both. This fixed mine. I don't forged to replace thermal compound too.
 
Top