Maker Pro
Maker Pro

One of my colleagues...

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
The zener is there to start clipping the positive node of the feedback sine signal and thereby
starting regulation of the power supplys output voltage at that threshold.

However, the zener is in inverse parallel with the BE junction. Thus the reverse voltage can't rise above 0.6V. Why use a zener?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
I just realised I have another couple of Ross' illuminated headsets.

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These use larger 18650 cells rather than 14500 cells. In addition these circuits also allow you to monitor the state of charge of the cells individually. And of course, they have instructions!

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Here they are in operation. The one on the right was used in Ross' darkroom while applying, exposing and developing the photo-resist on PCBs.

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A closer image of the instructions.

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This view shows the hand made brass momentary switches used to allow the monitoring of the state of charge. This is done with a simple resistor and LED. If the LED doesn't light brightly, recharge it!
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
PCB Resist Laminator

I believe I've mentioned that Ross developed his own means of applying photoresist film onto his large supply of PCB. This is one of the machines he created:

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This device consists of a pair of heated rollers that apply the film onto the clean PCB. The PCB is fed from the top. The film comes up over the guides at the top to prevent creasing. Motors drive the rollers at a controlled speed through the device.

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The device requires a separate 12V supply for the control functions and 240VAC for the motors and heaters.

It may be hard to see the decimal point -- the device is capable of handling substrates up to 2.5mm (not 25mm!).

This information is positioned on the side of the controller for the unit.

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The instructions are very clear. I'm pretty sure I could figure it out! I know that Ross did many trials to determine the correct amount of compression required -- and this is just one part of the long process of building this tool.

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Here is a view that shows the collection of guides and rollers. You can see the orange coloured heated rollers in the centre, and the small gap between them.

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And a better view of the compression adjustment at one end. There's a LOT of work here!

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A view from the other side with the cover removed. One of the motors can be seen here. For a number of reasons (including the spacing of the rollers) the two motors are mounted one at each end.

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The angle views show some of the details more clearly. Power is passed through some of the guides made from tube for this purpose, eliminating the need for external wiring. These guides don't get hot, so the insulation is in no danger of melting.

Also note the flexible coupling between the motor and the driven roller to eliminate stresses caused by any small misalignment.

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The cover removed for these photos has further instructions on the preparation of the PCB.

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Some of the instructions are repeated briefly under the guides and rollers to remind you of some of the important steps.

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On the front side of the controller are the main power switches and the pause switch to allow accurate initial placement of the substrate.

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The back side of the controller has the mains connection and the programming port for the microcontroller. Sadly, I don't have the source for the firmware.

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The top of the controller has the various annunciators and the temperature control.

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After removing this cover, there's not a lot mounted to it, but it does provide access to the PCB -- and if you're careful you could operate the device with the cover off.

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A couple of views of the PCB show how it all hangs together. Note that the other motor is mounted at this end with the shaft passing through the board.

I'm going to try to locate the schematic for this device, but I've not found it yet.

I do recall some things that Ross told me about the UV sensitive film. The film itself is supplied with a plastic coating on each side. When he received his first batch of film he was concerned that the packaging was not particularly light-tight. However he found it is not appreciably sensitive to UV until the film is removed -- probably the coating is opaque to UV. Once removed the film is very thin and very easily creased or affected by dust. I was also unable to find his supply of unused film :-(

It's not mentioned in the instructions, but the entire process had to be done under red light to avoid exposing the film. The small amount of green light from the LED is insignificant.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
I have the full set of three laminators.

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The middle one was the one featured in the last post. The one at the rear is the earliest prototype I have, made in June/July 2016. The other two are dated September 2016, so Ross clearly had a busy September!

I am fairly sure that the one I reviewed was the most recent because it seems to show the most evolution from the early model. It combines simplifications in several areas, and a more highly finessed mechanical structure.

One example of the changes and simplification is the control of the gap between the rollers. The first version has an indication of the gap, while later versions have just a simple knob.

While all three control voices have the same annunciators and controls on the top, their internal structure has clearly been modified. As an example, the embedded motor inn the control box is driving the opposite roller in each of the two September versions.

The image above also shows a battery pack with three 18650 lipo cells used as a nominally 12V power supply.

Each of these has Ross's documentation attached. Interestingly, the recommended temperature increased from 105C to 115C between the earlier and later versions.

If anyone is interested, I can take some more detailed photos showing mechanical and/or electrical details.
 
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