Old module does not work

[dave9]

A 480 range is going to be Celsius. It's possible that pushing in the knob will access a menu to change to F if you want, then upper range limit would be around 896F.

 

[noquacks]

Thanks, Dave. The temp was just right. After, I tried the module and IT WORKS!!!! I cant believe it! I never did this before, and this happened because all the guys here helped out!! This is such a great forum. Thanks again, people! (The car lives on.....so few of these cars around have headlight doors that still work.)

 

[Bluejets]

So I assume it was dry joints somewhere in the module...??

 

[noquacks]

So I assume it was dry joints somewhere in the module...??

Since I am so new at this I have no idea, other than they appeared to be intact/no splits, etc to my naked eye. You guys would know more. I guess they call it dry joints. Learned something.

 

[narkeleptk]

Since I am so new at this I have no idea, other than they appeared to be intact/no splits, etc to my naked eye. You guys would know more. I guess they call it dry joints. Learned something.

I've always herd it referred to as a "cold joint".

Glad to hear the reflow fixed it.

 

[dave9]

On an older vehicle where it presumably worked past the warranty period, probably more of a stress or heat induced crack rather than cold joint. I don't know when GM switched to lead free solder but at that point, the problem is bound to get worse... except, I don't know, maybe vehicles are exempt from ROHS lead free mandates? I do know that I'm using leaded solder whenever I work on one, and wire management is important, can't have harnesses flopping around with every vehicle vibration.

 

[Josie]

It is usually better to *first* ask (or search for as I did to find the link below) automotive circuit questions in a forum for the respective model and generation of vehicle, where fellow owners have probably already encountered the fault once a vehicle gets older, and may have wiring diagrams to show you where to probe for loss of power (or a voltage drop across a now-resistive portion of the circuit), or if it is getting all the way to the motor and then either motor or mechanism jambed or gears stripped.

This type of headlight benefits greatly from lubrication to decrease strain, and power needed to actuate. I would do that first since it needs done anyway if you haven't already.

Here's a topic:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/216154-87-92-firebird-headlight.html

Thanks for this link! I found many useful answers for myself, since I bought a new car and I just can't figure it out (

With&Respect
Jossy
employee monitoring

 

[narkeleptk]

except, I don't know, maybe vehicles are exempt from ROHS lead free mandates? I do know that I'm using leaded solder whenever I work on one, and wire management is important, can't have harnesses flopping around with every vehicle vibration.

They are all lead free for a long time now from what i see which is nice imo. I prefer to avoid lead when ever I can. I'm much to sloppy to have to worry about proper handling of it.

 

[dave9]

^ Exposure to it is minimal as long as you don't breathe the fumes, which you don't want to do with lead-free solder either due to the flux.

IMO, vehicles are exactly where leaded solder should be used, an application where failure can lead to deadly accidents.