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Novice seeking help to get 12 V CPU cooler fan running

Hello Everybody! I am new here and signed up as a novice in electronics, hope you don't mine.
Need to get a 12 Volt PC fan going, but external use for cooling WD Sata in HDD enclosure.

Fan has rated Voltage 12
Start Voltage 6.0
Input Power 0.36 Watt
Input Currant 0.03 Amp.

I tried to get it going with a little charger I found at a thrift store with 9 Volt and 500 mA - but that does not work.
What volt and A number range can I use so I can look at the local thrift store? (they have a lot of cell phone and other chargers)
Of course it would be ideal if I could power the fan it from the power supply of the HDD enclosure but I tried and the 12 Volt and 2.0 A charger failed to power the fan on. Just a tiny movement (not a spin) was visible once.

Thanks upfront
Puu
 
I am not aware of any qualifications to post here!;)

PC fans are now usually PWM and have a 3 pin connection.
Does it have a 2pin or 3pin connector, although the 3rd pin is usually a rotation detector.
Older PC fans are simple DC motor fans instead of BLDC.
M.
 
Check your connections.
Many 'case' fans are 3-pin variants that are powered via DC voltage of 12V and include a sense wire as mentioned above.
The computer will usually provide PWM to decrease the speed of the fan to keep the noise down.

The fan on a CPU usually has 4 pins which include +12V DC, ground, sense, and PWM-Control.

In the case of a case fan, simply connect red to +12V (Or a slightly lower voltage) and black to the negative terminal or ground. If you are using the CPU fan, you may need to tie the PWM-Control pin to power as well for continuous rotation.
Can you provide details about your fan? Model, or #/Color of wires?
 
I am not aware of any qualifications to post here!;)

PC fans are now usually PWM and have a 3 pin connection.
Does it have a 2pin or 3pin connector, although the 3rd pin is usually a rotation detector.
Older PC fans are simple DC motor fans instead of BLDC.
M.
P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }

Thank you, just to clarify, I do not have a problem with the wiring – my problem is the power the fan needs.

My fan has 3 pin Molex, a white, red and black wire and the fan runs very well on a 12 V car battery with the red to plus and black to ground. But who wants a car battery on a desk?

My Question is still: What volt and Amp number range can I use on this fan (Blacknoise brand) so I can look at the local thrift store?

Does it need to have exact 12 V ???

For example: Can I use a 11 volt 500mAmp if I might find at GOODWILL to fire it up?


Best regards
 
Hello Everybody! I am new here and signed up as a novice in electronics, hope you don't mine.
Need to get a 12 Volt PC fan going, but external use for cooling WD Sata in HDD enclosure.

Fan has rated Voltage 12
Start Voltage 6.0
Input Power 0.36 Watt
Input Currant 0.03 Amp.

I tried to get it going with a little charger I found at a thrift store with 9 Volt and 500 mA - but that does not work.
What volt and A number range can I use so I can look at the local thrift store? (they have a lot of cell phone and other chargers)
Of course it would be ideal if I could power the fan it from the power supply of the HDD enclosure but I tried and the 12 Volt and 2.0 A charger failed to power the fan on. Just a tiny movement (not a spin) was visible once.

Thanks upfront
Puu
P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }

Thank you, just to clarify, I do not have a problem with the wiring – my problem is the power the fan needs.

My fan has 3 pin Molex, a white, red and black wire and the fan runs very well on a 12 V car battery with the red to plus and black to ground. But who wants a car battery on a desk?

My Question is still: What volt and Amp number range can I use on this fan (Blacknoise brand) so I can look at the local thrift store?

Does it need to have exact 12 V ???

For example: Can I use a 11 volt 500mAmp if I might find at GOODWILL to fire it up?


Best regards
Are you sure you're not having any other problems?
You provided power and current details for the fan in the first post. 12V @ 30mA (Which seems small) . These values, if correct, is the answer to your first and second post.
Then you go on to say that a 12V 2A DC adaptor failed to make the fan move... or even twitch. This is what makes me thing you had a wiring issue... Providing well over 50 times the running current should have been able to start the fan. The highest current draw will always be when the fan is first powered on.

When I was a kid, a 9V battery worked for me, I'm pretty sure it was an 80mm case fan taken from some yellowed plastic old garbage computer that no one ever wanted.

It would help to get real specs from the device though... You got a model number?
Most case fans use 1.5 - 3 Watts which is 120mA to 250mA ... these values are at least 4 times what you have provided, so you are either working with a very tiny fan which should have easily spun just by sneezing at it, or you have written/measure the wrong values down. As for why it didn't turn, I can only assume wiring problem considering my experience with it, and the values you have provided.

So, again, details please.
Is this a 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, or 120mm fan? Do you have any packaging that states it specifications?
 
Hi Puu,
The datasheet for the fan is here
It has a start voltage of 6v and a recommended running voltage of 12v.

The answer to your question is 'YES', it will work with an 11v - 500ma pack.
As Gryd3 has said, if it works on a car battery, it should also work on a small battery.
I have my case fan for soldering fumes on a 9v pp3 battery.

You can always use the car battery and put your dmm in series with the fan to see what current it's drawing.
That will give you a true amperage to work from.
The fan will (should) run on any power supply above 30ma.
Using a HDD 12v - 2A enclosure should be more than enough to power the fan.
There is also a chance that the fan motor is faulty and draws several amps, which is why it only works on a large amperage car battery.
Put your meter on it and check the current draw.

Martin
 
Hi Puu,
The datasheet for the fan is here
It has a start voltage of 6v and a recommended running voltage of 12v.

The answer to your question is 'YES', it will work with an 11v - 500ma pack.
As Gryd3 has said, if it works on a car battery, it should also work on a small battery.
I have my case fan for soldering fumes on a 9v pp3 battery.

You can always use the car battery and put your dmm in series with the fan to see what current it's drawing.
That will give you a true amperage to work from.
The fan will (should) run on any power supply above 30ma.
Using a HDD 12v - 2A enclosure should be more than enough to power the fan.
There is also a chance that the fan motor is faulty and draws several amps, which is why it only works on a large amperage car battery.
Put your meter on it and check the current draw.

Martin
Good find on the datasheet Martin, thank you.
I'm a little surprised at how low the current draw is according to the specifications, but I guess that model has a low RPM and airflow.

It may not be a bad idea to probe the 12V 2A supply anyway with the fan attached to confirm that there is still 12V currently available. I've never run into it myself, but hear that some switch mode supplies will not operate properly unless they detect an appropriate load.
 
but hear that some switch mode supplies will not operate properly unless they detect an appropriate load.
Hmm, maybe I don't understand the question properly.
That is a valid point Gryd3, The HDD enclosure might only work with the HDD connected too.
Although all mine have external psu's and are just standard on/off.
Still doesn't explain why the fan wont work on 9v either.
I agree that 30ma is very low but the specs are there!
I just tried my solder fume extractor with 5v and it still spins.

Do you not think measuring the current draw while on the car battery is a good idea?

Martin
 
Hmm, maybe I don't understand the question properly.
That is a valid point Gryd3, The HDD enclosure might only work with the HDD connected too.
Although all mine have external psu's and are just standard on/off.
Still doesn't explain why the fan wont work on 9v either.
I agree that 30ma is very low but the specs are there!
I just tried my solder fume extractor with 5v and it still spins.

Do you not think measuring the current draw while on the car battery is a good idea?

Martin
I certainly do think a current measurement while on the car battery is a good idea. Will tell us if perhaps the specs are correct for the listed fan.
Additionally, measuring voltage or current to the fan while it's connected to the External HDD power supply or 9V battery may give some insight into what's happening.
 
Martaine and Gryd3,
first thanks for your efforts. The fan is supposed to be very low noise but creates enough airflow to cool an external HDD.
As a novice I do not know how to measure the current draw while running on battery.
My neighbor has a older Voltmeter I once borrowed to check if my car battery was charging.
Where do I measure, on the battery or on the fan connectors? There are multiple positions to switch to on the voltmeter , where do I go ?

Aloha
Puu
 
Martaine and Gryd3,
first thanks for your efforts. The fan is supposed to be very low noise but creates enough airflow to cool an external HDD.
As a novice I do not know how to measure the current draw while running on battery.
My neighbor has a older Voltmeter I once borrowed to check if my car battery was charging.
Where do I measure, on the battery or on the fan connectors? There are multiple positions to switch to on the voltmeter , where do I go ?

Aloha
Puu
This may be a little bit to learn right off the bat but:
- Voltage can be measured in a non-invasive manner simply by putting the red probe on the + wire, and the black probe on the - wire. If you are not using an auto-ranging meter, the setting should be set to 20V if you are measuring 12V (Next setting is usually 250V, but 12V is much closer than 20V without going over) Voltage can be checked while the fan is connected as well.

- Current is an invasive measurement, and must be hooked up in 'series' with the fan... essentially, you will be using the meter as a simple wire to connect one of the fan wires to the battery. Red on the battery + , and Black on the fan +. The setting here would most likely be 250mA ... but setting it higher is advised. If the needle hardly moves, simply move the dial to the next lower setting to measure mA until the needles or display shows you a nice full number. Of the display shows OL or the pin goes too far, the setting is too low! remove the probe, adjust the setting and try again.
 
Testet the fan on 9 volt block battery = no start!
You might right that the unit is defective even it runs on 12 Volt car battery
 
This may be a little bit to learn right off the bat but:
- Voltage can be measured in a non-invasive manner simply by putting the red probe on the + wire, and the black probe on the - wire. If you are not using an auto-ranging meter, the setting should be set to 20V if you are measuring 12V (Next setting is usually 250V, but 12V is much closer than 20V without going over) Voltage can be checked while the fan is connected as well.

- Current is an invasive measurement, and must be hooked up in 'series' with the fan... essentially, you will be using the meter as a simple wire to connect one of the fan wires to the battery. Red on the battery + , and Black on the fan +. The setting here would most likely be 250mA ... but setting it higher is advised. If the needle hardly moves, simply move the dial to the next lower setting to measure mA until the needles or display shows you a nice full number. Of the display shows OL or the pin goes too far, the setting is too low! remove the probe, adjust the setting and try again.

Tks for the detail - very helpful! I have to see if the test meter has 20 volt on it and check with car battery and post result. Aloha Puu
 
Testet the fan on 9 volt block battery = no start!
You might right that the unit is defective even it runs on 12 Volt car battery
Well. The 9V block battery may be dead or dying. If you hook up the fan AND test the voltage at the same time, it will give you hints. If the battery voltage drops, it's the battery, or the fan is pulling too much current.

Same thing with the 12V 2A adaptor. Hook up the fan AND test the voltage and see if it still says 12V.

As far as the meter is concerned. Just set it to the closest value you expect to measure without going under. You can always adjust it, so its no big deal if you accidentally set it too high. If you set it too low, you can bend the needle on the analogue meters though.
 
Thanks guys, unit will not run on 12 v car battery anymore, looks like I burned it while testing it with the 12 V 500 mA power unit. That explains why 9 volt test failed.
Have to look for replacement.
Would you recommend to try powreing the new unit with a power supply of : 10 VDC 300mA ??
Aloha Puu
 
Thanks guys, unit will not run on 12 v car battery anymore, looks like I burned it while testing it with the 12 V 500 mA power unit. That explains why 9 volt test failed.
Have to look for replacement.
Would you recommend to try powreing the new unit with a power supply of : 10 VDC 300mA ??
Aloha Puu
Datasheet claims 12V @ 30mA by all means, 8-12V DC should be acceptable, and the Amperage should be at least 150mA (This gives you 5 times the current... to start the fan and a little freedom in case you need to swap out for a different fan model#)

The fan will only pull what it needs... if you give it 12V @ 1000A then the fan will only draw 30mA (According to it's specs sheet)
The only time this is not the case is with special constant current power supplies, or old DC adaptors that use a transformer. (At rest, they may provide a voltage higher than desired)
Please note that when the fan is stalled, or not moving, it will draw the most current.
I'm wondering if perhaps the fan was damaged, or has very poor lubrication that does not allow it to spin on lower voltages... this could have caused it to burn out on a lower voltage if would not start spinning.
 
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