Not really a repair, but some help going in the right direction appreciated

[fiveseven15]

Yeah I haven't been able to test it since I pulled out my multimeter and it's dead. Gonna pick up a battery for it tomorrow. I remember having tons of 9v batteries around, but now that I need one? They all disappeared

 

[fiveseven15]

going out today to borrow a multimeter that works. sorry for the delay

as far as power lights, when i flip the switch the red main light does illuminate and the little rotational switch with the 4 connections (the one with the possible broken wire) has a little light that comes on as well, but it is only visible from the inside of the box when it is mounted it is on the side of the switch close to wire #3 as far as position goes

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

I agree that broken wire is likely a problem but it definitely doesn't look original. I don't see anything on the top side. Was this just jumpering out the two contacts?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir fiveseven15 . . . . .

Ahhhhhhhh . . . . . yes . . .ever forthcoming little tid-bit of info is being ever so helpful.

You have given no info so far as to the lever actuated assembly as to the “feel” of rotating the shaft that the lever was affixed to.

Specifically, if there was any snap action or detents as the shaft was being rotated between its two extreme mechanical limits.

As I initially made a “read” of the circuit board foil paths , I was seeing a direct connection of a RED pilot lamp with its hidden internal neon lamp and series current limiting resistor across the AC power input

Expecting . . . . .If the power switch was flipped on the lamp was on.

The possible other alternative function, had it been incorporated instead, was having the lamp being turned on to indicate a low materiel supply roll.

With you now telling us of an internal mounted lamps illumination, I would now deem this unit as extremely likely of being an optical interrupter.

The lamp . . .probably being a NE-2 or its stubby counterpart is illuminating a photocell with a shutter that is activated by the lever, with it being placed between those light emitter and detector elements.

One extreme position of the lever has the light source to photocell path being uninterrupted. In the levers other position, a shutter pivots across to block the light to photocell path.

With your mentioning of the lamp working, the lamp wiring circit path must be good.

The broken wire must be related to a lead of the photocell.

I am thinking that when you eventually test with an ohmmeter that you will find no typical direct “shorts” being present between all possible combinations of 3-4-5-7-contacts. Possibly excepting two of them, if they are sharing a common connection.

I believe the 4 screw terminals on the plastic end piece merely serving as being " terminals of convenience" between the joined 4 wire cable and the two photocell lead wires and the internal neon lamps 2 wires.

Now, in reality, should you freshly re-tin the end of the exposed “broken” wire and take a short length of like gauge, tinned wire and freshly re- tin it, and form a tight “O” loop in its end and insert the “broken” leads tip and reflow solder the pair, that should bothly, effect an appropriate repair and lengthening of the wire.

You then route the wire under screw head 4 in the same manner as was being done on companion screw head 5.

Then . . . . .there is a possibility that you could have a working unit again.

Thassssssit . . . . .



73’s de Edd

 

[fiveseven15]

ok so i checked that wire and cleaned it a bit and it actually is connected. i dont understand how it can look disconnected in the earlier picture. also i just noticed this switch does not have a stop. if i turn it, it keeps going and going

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

This was not wired by the factory. The lugs are the wrong size for the wire. Someone crimped them with a pair of plyers instead of proper sta-kon lug crimpers.

That jumper wire held on with a zip-tie, looks like stainless steel wire that's usually not used as a jumper like that. It's possible that the metal expanded from heat and separated in earlier pictures. Now that it cooled off the springy metal came back together.
I think I'd take the jumper off because someone was likely bypassing a stop position of the switch.

 

[fiveseven15]

Since the motor is known to work fine plugging it straight into a 110v wall outlet, would it be possible/be easier to just rewrite it without the auto stop switch (the thing with the broken wire?).

Can I somehow just wire the motor direct to a potentiometer for speed control?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir fiveseven15 . . . . .

Certainly . . . . if you help . . . . first of all , about that wire, of which you removed the black “pookie” deposited around part of it, to reveal a connected wire.

Is it being a wire that is being formed as a “U” loop and then bent around and passing under a white wire tie and finally terminating at the BLACK and WHITE wires terminals? E.g. a wire jumper.

OR is what looks like a loop, ACTUALLY being the metal housing of a photocell that is passing thru a hole in the plastic housing and the wrap around plastic tie serves for holding the photo cell case in place?

Further testing related to those two connections, has to be put on hold, awaiting for your response.

Refer to post #3 and the 2nd photo down and MAG it on up, and then note its central 1/4 in shaft, is there a hole just below it, and does it have the exposed terminal end of a NE-2 glow lamp showing, with its tip end having been pushed down within the hole ? This would be the point that you could catch the orange glow of it, if it was being powered up and illuminated.

If all is true so far, would its wires be connected to the screws that go to RED and GREEN wires ?

(GAWD . . . . that’s one awesome pic . . .if you’re displaying it MAGGED on a 42 inch HD monitor . . . . so modify that to one 21/64ths inch length, and another 19/64ths inch length set of black cambric spaghetti insulated wires, that are insulating the NE-2 lamps bare leads.)

If all holds true so far, no ohmmeter needed now, you will be using metering set for AC voltage in the 50-100VAC range.

You will be connected up and metering across the RED and GREEN and expect in the 65-75VAC range of voltage being metered across them, if the unit is turned on.

It should receive one end of the AC line at GREEN wire terminal and a voltage and current limited power feed thru from a 100K resistor at it’s other RED wire terminal .

Lastly I need the alpha numerical identification from the Triac to positively confirm its specs and terminal layout . . .it is just being marked randomly now.

Thasssssit . . . . .


73’s de Edd

 

[73's de Edd]