P
ptaylor
Hey gang,
I've got a small 12V setup,with a 10W Solec panel,and a bunch of small
assorted batteries,of different ages,sizes,etc. (all 12V) a couple
2.5AH,a couple 4.5AH,17AH,etc. and I just added two car batts. (one is a
normal starter battery,and one is a "marine" battery.) both rated about
50-55AH. (about 140AH total.)
This leads me to my question..
I don't want to just parallel all of these different size,age,etc
batteries.(Do I?)
I figured out a way to isolate them from eachother,using 2 diodes per
battery (or 1 bridge rectifier for each pair of batts.)
So,I've got some bridge rectifiers,ranging from like 4A to 35A rating.
(one of my main hobbies is electronics,and I have plenty of parts around!)
So,using a few bridge rectifiers,I've tied one (~)AC terminal to the (+)
positive of one battery,and the other (~)AC terminal to the other
batteries positive.Now using the (+) terminal of the bridge rectifier we
have the output point of both batteries (minus one diode drop ~0.7V),It
is electrically very similar to them just being wired straight in
paralell,except they are isolated from eachother (the stronger batteries
can't try to "charge" a weaker battery.)
We can use the (-) terminal of the bridge rectifier for our "Charge
input" (solar PV panels,microhydro,etc.),of course the batteries will
see 0.7V LESS than the voltage on the (-) input terminal. (likewise,the
output will be 0.7V lower than the batt's voltage(s),1.4V loss from the
charge input,to the loads,but I've actually measured more like 1.0V in
practice here.)
Using schottky/fast/ultrafast diodes can lower the losses in the diodes
to about 0.2-0.3V each,So obviously these would be a better
choice.(lower voltage drop/less loss) now a 0.4-0.6V overall voltage
drop from "Charge input" and "output" (the bridge's - to + terminal.)
isn't that bad at all.(Still about the same as one normal diode,or a bit
less!)
I've been using this system for a while now,and it seems to work well..
If one battery craps out,and decides to hog current,it won't drain the
other batteries,since they are all isolated from one another with
diodes.(unless you've got a shorted diode or two.)
What it *WILL* hog is the charge input current.
I had one small SLA batt. die on me,and I noticed that the battery bank
didn't seem to be charging up much,despite giving them what should have
been a decent charge.(I also have a 13.8V 2.5A regulated supply to
"supplement"/charge on cloudy days,or times of heavy use.)
So I switched off the charge input (to prevent false readings) and got
my DMM and started checking the voltage of all the batteries,one-by-one.
Sure enough,found one that finally gave it up,around 8V..so I unplugged
it,and turned the charging source back on...I'm Back in business!
Anyways,I'm wondering if there are any major flaws with my
diode-isolation idea?
(I'll draw up a schematic if someone likes,but be warned,I can hardly
draw stick-people!)
It seems to be working well for me so far.
I don't really see any major flaws,maybe a couple minor
disadvantages..But considering the *whole system* cost me under $50,I'm
not complaining!
The small batteries were all aquired from local surplus places (UPS
batteries,etc.)I bought one car batt for $20,the rest
(inverter,panel,and the second car battery) were given to me by friends!
(They all know I'm interested in thier random electronic "junk".) ;-)
I've also recently bought a 24V 400W UPS for a whopping $5. The
batteries were dead (12V 6.5ah),but thats no matter,I've got the 2 car
batteries that I've used for it. (tested it once during an outage,works
great! the runtime meter says "99:00" remaining!)
I've not yet re-charged the car batteries with the UPS,as I fear the
internal charger may overheat,and release it's "magic smoke". No big
deal,I've got the solar,etc. for re-charging them!
This stuff rocks!
Now that I have sufficient battery storage(~140AH),I need to find some
more cheap/free solar panels!
The system is running a couple 12V PC case fans,a cellphone charger,and
modem, 24/7 without any real problems.(I do need more solar/etc. though)
I also have a 400W max. car amplifier connected up for my stereo's
subwoofer,I don't use it a whole lot,so it's not much of an issue.
Also,rarely used..Misc. radio equipment CB,Scanner,etc. (nice to have
during an outage/storm aswell!)
Whew..anyways..I suppose I'll let your eyes rest..I've been tinkering
with this setup for,wow,almost 2 years now! and have found it quite
fun,and I really enjoy my own spare power during power outages,etc! I
can't wait to go off-grid! (unfortunatly,thats'probably still a few
years away.)
Did I mention that this stuff rocks?
I've got a small 12V setup,with a 10W Solec panel,and a bunch of small
assorted batteries,of different ages,sizes,etc. (all 12V) a couple
2.5AH,a couple 4.5AH,17AH,etc. and I just added two car batts. (one is a
normal starter battery,and one is a "marine" battery.) both rated about
50-55AH. (about 140AH total.)
This leads me to my question..
I don't want to just parallel all of these different size,age,etc
batteries.(Do I?)
I figured out a way to isolate them from eachother,using 2 diodes per
battery (or 1 bridge rectifier for each pair of batts.)
So,I've got some bridge rectifiers,ranging from like 4A to 35A rating.
(one of my main hobbies is electronics,and I have plenty of parts around!)
So,using a few bridge rectifiers,I've tied one (~)AC terminal to the (+)
positive of one battery,and the other (~)AC terminal to the other
batteries positive.Now using the (+) terminal of the bridge rectifier we
have the output point of both batteries (minus one diode drop ~0.7V),It
is electrically very similar to them just being wired straight in
paralell,except they are isolated from eachother (the stronger batteries
can't try to "charge" a weaker battery.)
We can use the (-) terminal of the bridge rectifier for our "Charge
input" (solar PV panels,microhydro,etc.),of course the batteries will
see 0.7V LESS than the voltage on the (-) input terminal. (likewise,the
output will be 0.7V lower than the batt's voltage(s),1.4V loss from the
charge input,to the loads,but I've actually measured more like 1.0V in
practice here.)
Using schottky/fast/ultrafast diodes can lower the losses in the diodes
to about 0.2-0.3V each,So obviously these would be a better
choice.(lower voltage drop/less loss) now a 0.4-0.6V overall voltage
drop from "Charge input" and "output" (the bridge's - to + terminal.)
isn't that bad at all.(Still about the same as one normal diode,or a bit
less!)
I've been using this system for a while now,and it seems to work well..
If one battery craps out,and decides to hog current,it won't drain the
other batteries,since they are all isolated from one another with
diodes.(unless you've got a shorted diode or two.)
What it *WILL* hog is the charge input current.
I had one small SLA batt. die on me,and I noticed that the battery bank
didn't seem to be charging up much,despite giving them what should have
been a decent charge.(I also have a 13.8V 2.5A regulated supply to
"supplement"/charge on cloudy days,or times of heavy use.)
So I switched off the charge input (to prevent false readings) and got
my DMM and started checking the voltage of all the batteries,one-by-one.
Sure enough,found one that finally gave it up,around 8V..so I unplugged
it,and turned the charging source back on...I'm Back in business!
Anyways,I'm wondering if there are any major flaws with my
diode-isolation idea?
(I'll draw up a schematic if someone likes,but be warned,I can hardly
draw stick-people!)
It seems to be working well for me so far.
I don't really see any major flaws,maybe a couple minor
disadvantages..But considering the *whole system* cost me under $50,I'm
not complaining!
The small batteries were all aquired from local surplus places (UPS
batteries,etc.)I bought one car batt for $20,the rest
(inverter,panel,and the second car battery) were given to me by friends!
(They all know I'm interested in thier random electronic "junk".) ;-)
I've also recently bought a 24V 400W UPS for a whopping $5. The
batteries were dead (12V 6.5ah),but thats no matter,I've got the 2 car
batteries that I've used for it. (tested it once during an outage,works
great! the runtime meter says "99:00" remaining!)
I've not yet re-charged the car batteries with the UPS,as I fear the
internal charger may overheat,and release it's "magic smoke". No big
deal,I've got the solar,etc. for re-charging them!
This stuff rocks!
Now that I have sufficient battery storage(~140AH),I need to find some
more cheap/free solar panels!
The system is running a couple 12V PC case fans,a cellphone charger,and
modem, 24/7 without any real problems.(I do need more solar/etc. though)
I also have a 400W max. car amplifier connected up for my stereo's
subwoofer,I don't use it a whole lot,so it's not much of an issue.
Also,rarely used..Misc. radio equipment CB,Scanner,etc. (nice to have
during an outage/storm aswell!)
Whew..anyways..I suppose I'll let your eyes rest..I've been tinkering
with this setup for,wow,almost 2 years now! and have found it quite
fun,and I really enjoy my own spare power during power outages,etc! I
can't wait to go off-grid! (unfortunatly,thats'probably still a few
years away.)
Did I mention that this stuff rocks?