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Noisemaker Revenge Machine

When you try to fight fire with fire, then both sides get burned. If the noisy neighbor realizes that you are intentionally thumping him, then his careless and inconsiderate behaviour may become intentional and escalate in volume. just sayin', i know that is a difficult situation

Let's not discuss this as I have not disclosed any facts, so whatever you think or voice your opinion about is just speculating.
 
With my lack of knowledge with microcontrollers, I can't see a way to circumvent it and still use the board you have.
IMHO, and simpler for you, I think you'd be better off with a seperate PWM controller.
These are cheap as chips from £2 upwards. Here is one for example. And another here. And here.
Obviously these are very cheap. There are better ones, higher amperage and higher prices.
All you have to do is connect the motor and your adapter. Simple as that.
On your PCB, the N channel mosfets (Q1 & Q2) are max 30A. If your large motor is a 550 or 775 type, it wont be anywhere near this.
Likewise with the smaller motor.
Certainly worth a try.
Unless anybody else can see a simple way with your PCB.

Martin
 
Thanks Martin for all the help. I will order 2 and take to an electronics shop. What is the chance of burning the motor with a wrong move? I only need the smaller motor.

I also have another device. a 12V, 1A adapter supplies power. Specs specify 12V, 0.5A. It has an air pump with an adjustable switch like the boards you mentioned. I wonder if I can use that. That one starts/stop with Smart Plug perfectly.
 
It might work but 1A is on the small side.
3A or more would be much better. Your original adaptor will be fine with a smart plug.
Regarding taking to an electronics shop, no need.
Simply cut off adaptor connector and motor connector, then connect to new PWM board with screw terminals. Each terminal is marked ‘motor +’ and ‘power +’ etc. Really simple.
You can’t really go wrong so damaging the motor would be difficult. Reversing polarity of the motor would only make it rotate in the opposite direction.

Martin
 
No I don't mean with the outputs. I can figure out which one is going to motor and power by following the cables. Last 2 wires are for LED.

I am afraid about amperage. Wouldn't I damage the motor if I supply 1A instead of 3A? Conversely, damage the board if it is 1A and I supply 3A?

I think I damaged this board while I was trying to take it out! How do I figure out if it is supplying electricity? Motor terminals register very little voltage.

phGbVqe.jpg
 
Ah, forget it. This is dead. It was not good to begin with, pump was working but not outputting air. Liquid went inside.

But I have another new one. I wonder if it can work.
 
A very popular misconception.
You can’t supply current. The device will take what it needs. Using a 10A adapter on a 1A device will be absolutely fine. The device will draw what it needs.
OTOH, using a 1A adaptor on a 3A device may overload it or simply ‘rotate’ slower. The ratings that you see on adaptors are Max values not actual usage values.

Martin
 
I got it. As far as motor is concerned, it can rotate slower. I did burn a 1A device like above by supplying it 0.5A though.
There are design challanges. I don't know how I can incorporate the pcb box into this device's box. I don't think I can remove them from the wooden box, they seem to be epoxied there. But I think it will work as you suggested.
 
I ordered some controllers like you suggested. I will go to an electronics shop also to see if they have something for it. I will keep you posted Martin. Thank you so much, have a great weekend!
 
You’re welcome. You too.Martin

Martin, just a quick update. I am still waiting for controllers. I ordered 3 pieces to see which one will come first but all coming from China. Amazon did not have local sellers. In 3-4 days they will arrive I think.

I did not bother going to shop. With your help, I know how to do it once the boards arrive. The reason I wanted to go in the first place was to buy them right away from shop, anyway.

Just a quick question: Why is the board needed (apart from PWM duty cycle, that I will need)? Can't I connect the end of the adapter cable (12V, 3A) to the motor directly to run it at its 100%?
 
Short answer is yes you can provided the motor is 12 volt.
As it had no markings on either motor, we don’t know for sure.
Also running at 100% is not a good idea for any component.

Martin
 
Short answer is yes you can provided the motor is 12 volt.
As it had no markings on either motor, we don’t know for sure.
Also running at 100% is not a good idea for any component.

Martin

Here is an update: Half-success.

I got my board: https://www.amazon.com/Special】Rate...ds=B08ML2KCHJ&qid=1613315310&refresh=1&sr=8-1

This works. But, motor needs to be off for the iron hammer to fall down with gravity. So at the moment it starts, hits the top of the plastic and stays there.

Original also did not work upside down. This one is powerful, works upside down, but only once.

I tried different PWM settings and it is the same. It is constantly supplying voltage I think.

I apologize, I did not mention this point earlier.
Any idea which board might I need?
 
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Could not edit my post, there is time limit.
No original board is hitting one way only, it is falling down with gravity.

So here are the options:

1) Reverse rotation, hitting both sides.
2) Stop motor at short intervals so metal head would fall down.
3) Smart Switch with milisecond scheduling (mine does only minute)
 
Sorry, I am confused. I’ll read this thread again so hopefully makes sense to me.
But if motor is rotating in undesired direction, simply reverse the motor connections.

Martin
 
Martin, please look at the first picture. Do you see the metal rod attached to small motor?

When motor turns, that metal rod hits the top of the plastic box . That is what makes sound. (keep in mind, in picture, motors are at bottom, but in reality, motors are the top part of the box).

BUT... when voltage is constantly supplied like the board I have... That metal hits top, and stays there (because it cannot go more, or rotate, it is stuck there).

In original board, after hitting the top, it falls down (with gravity). Then hits again. I think motor stops every 1 cycle of 2 cycles.

I hope I could explain.
 
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Ok, I think I understand.
The motor rotates half a turn and “hammer” hits, motor reverses half turn and “hammer” hits the other side. This repeats over and over?.
The new board is just a motor (PWM) speed controller.
It sounds like the original board is an H bridge. But I can’t find any useful info on the STC ic on that board. It’s all Chinese.
I apologise if I mislead you into buying the wrong board.
Oh and can you clarify whether you are fitting the board into the orange plastic unit or the wooden one?.
But all is not lost. A mechanical solution can be found.

Martin
 
No buddy, I appreciate your help. I also like the experiment. I should have been more specific from the start.

I have the orange box. I am not fitting the board anywhere now, just keeping it outside.

I think motor DOES NOT REVERSE. Metal rod falls down with gravity. Metal hits only one side, not 2 sides. The seller has 2 units, one for downstairs, one for upstairs. If it was reversing, he would not be needing 2 units but just using hte same motor. Don't you think?

I managed to get my smart plug do seconds. Very convoluted config but it works as I wanted. Unfortunately sometimes metal rod gets stuck in up position and does not go down.

What kind of mechanical solution would there be to push this down when stuck?

Do you think something like this could work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083GJ289V/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A22TNJTMHYRDX4&psc=1
 
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