New Veritas R8 Install

[[email protected]]

Hi,
I am installing a new veritas R8 with little success. Following the
manual to load the factory settings doesn't work. I've spoken to the
help desk. The bloke says that the manual is wrong and that you
connect mains first and then battery. Tried that with no difference.
The manual says to press the reset key within 10 secs of power up.
This doesn't work. The bloke says that you have to press the reset
button twice and says that's what's stated in the manual. Again this
doesn't work.

If I just power up the reset fails, 9-beeps continue followed by
longer beeps and the alarm then seems to set itself.

I'd be grateful for advice,

Thanks,

Alan

 

[Crash Gordon]

The manual seems to state that there is a default program...not sure why
you'd want to reset it.
Not familiar with the product...just reading the manual.
With most alarms you power up first, then connect the battery.

 

[[email protected]]

The manual seems to state that there is a default program...not sure why
you'd want to reset it.
Not familiar with the product...just reading the manual.
With most alarms you power up first, then connect the battery.

--
**Crash Gordon**








- Show quoted text -

Hi Gordon,

thanks for yor interest. Having studied the manual I assumed that
there would be a default usercode and engineer's code. Following the
instructions for the installation it doesn't mention these. It does
however refer you to the section on commissioning (initial power up)
I assumed - maybe mistakenly - that I had to reset the panel as one of
the commisioning steps (to set the usercode to 4321 and the engineer
code to 1234). The guy from Texecome said that the power-up was wrong
in the manual and that it was mains first and then battery. He also
said that to restore the factory settings the 'reset' button needs to
be pressed TWICE not once within the 10 seconds before the 9-bleeps
come in as indicated in the installation manual.

If I turn on the mains the alarm panel seems to set immediately and
will eventually go off when a PIR is disturbed etc. But I can't
communicate via the keypad to turn it off. I have double-checked all
cabling and connections which seem OK. I don't have a lot of faith in
the support guy but if all else fails I'll have to give him another
try.

Thanks again,

Alan

 

[Crash Gordon]

The way I read it, the Engineers code and default user code are just
that...defaults, so you'd not need to do anything until (and if) you want to
change them.

If you've not got the panel all wired up, there's a good chance there's a
default fire zone that is causing it to go "off"



--
**Crash Gordon**

 

[alarman]

The way I read it, the Engineers code and default user code are just
that...defaults, so you'd not need to do anything until (and if) you
want to change them.

If you've not got the panel all wired up, there's a good chance
there's a default fire zone that is causing it to go "off"

I remember some of the older panels would power up armed. Could that be what
is happening here? You can not enter programming if the panel is armed.

 

[Crash Gordon]

Most alarms come up the way they go down...some have a programmable option
to not (which I think is very dumb).
No I don't think you can get into programming of any panel while it's armed
except remotely - with software.

Did you buy this panel new?



--
**Crash Gordon**

 

[[email protected]]

Most alarms come up the way they go down...some have a programmable option
to not (which I think is very dumb).
No I don't think you can get into programming of any panel while it's armed
except remotely - with software.

Did you buy this panel new?

--
**Crash Gordon**






- Show quoted text -

Hi Gordon,

yes it was bought from security warehouse. I did see a small dirt
mark on the case when I opened the box which made me think on a bit.
However the instruction manual and keypad were sealed - but they could
have been added to a re-issued box I suppose. I can't have done
anything except reset to the default values. As the default codes
don't work does this indicate a duff main board or a re-issued board
with other codes? Is there any point in looping out all the PIRs and
Exit switch, looping out the tamper alarm and just connecting the
odyssy box (which seems to function correctly as per the tests in the
veritas manual) to try and get it up and running?

Thanks,

Alan

 

[Paul]

I'm guessing the US version and the UK version are at least similar.
Normally on initial power up, the keypad is too far away to make it in time.
I use the other method where you power up the panel and push the panel
tamper about 5-10 times within the first 5 seconds. Has always worked for me
and I always default on installation.


--
A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.


Paul Ekins

Linc Secure

 

[Crash Gordon]

IF you're following the tech manual to the letter and are being helped by
the MANUFACTURER's tech support and you cannot get in to panel by the
default codes...the panel is bad or it's a repack that's locked.

Again...I'm only going by years of general experience here; I'm not familiar
with that box.

--
**Crash Gordon**

 

[[email protected]]

IF you're following the tech manual to the letter and are being helped by
the MANUFACTURER's tech support and you cannot get in to panel by the
default codes...the panel is bad or it's a repack that's locked.

Again...I'm only going by years of general experience here; I'm not familiar
with that box.

--
**Crash Gordon**








- Show quoted text -

Hi Everyone,

I'm really grateful for the help and advice from you all. Although
it's my first alarm installation I'm no mug. I've 30 years in the
electronics industry and I'm a software developer in my spare time.
Logically, I can only agree with Gordon's last suggestion. I'll
contact Securitywarehouse to try and exchange the unit.
Unfortunately, I'm away for a week on holiday so I'll have to see what
happens. I should have bought from a local supplier. Thanks for your
interest. I'll keep you posted.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[Frank Olson]

Sounds like we have a distributor selling direct. I don't mind but I
wonder how many SW dealer/customers are reading this thread.

It's called a "cash sale". Tried has done it. So has Burtek/ADI. It's
no "biggie". What *is* is a manufacturer getting involved in PMA's
(Periodic Maintenance Agreements). A lot of our customers service and
test fire alarm systems. Occasionally they have to replace panel
components which invariably "triggers" the requirement for a
Verification. When the VI is performed by a tech (in the employ of the
manufacturer's local branch office), a little less than a year later the
building owner is contacted by a service sales person that offers to
take over the service and testing of their alarm systems. Now *that*
truly sucks.

 

[Doug]

Sounds like we have a distributor selling direct. I don't mind but I
wonder how many SW dealer/customers are reading this thread.

Well I'm sure we can all breathe a little easier now, our minds set at ease
secure in the knowledge that you don't mind.

Doug

 

[Doug]

I believe the OP said or intimated that he's from Britain

It was the "bloke" in his first post that gave it away, he probably bought
it from http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/

Doug

 

[Doug]

Well, he could have been from China saying his alarm system was "bloke"

 

[Petem]

Such is life. :^)

And life is short.

 

[[email protected]]

It's too short to waste it on rage.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

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Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>

Gentlemen, (maybe Ladies as well)
thanks again for all your interest. Yes I'm from NW England (near
Chester - originally Liverpool). I haven't been able to post as I've
been in Spain for a week. Luckily my guitar collection was still
intack when I got home.
Securitywarehouse have offered a replacement so hopefully that will
solve the problem. I hope I haven't ruffled the feathers of the
'professionals' too much.

Cheers,

Alan