Normally in a tetrode or a pintode the bias requirements are directly proportional to the screen grid voltage. For example if the screen grid voltage of a 4-125 is 600 volts the the control grid DC bias should be around -94 volts. If the screen grid was 300 volts the the DC bias on the control grid should be about -47 volts. The reason for this has to do with space charges within the vacuum of the valve. The control grid characteristics has little to do with plate voltage. So my suggestion would be ,if you want to run lower voltages, is to reduce them all by the same ratio with the exception of the heater voltage. It must remain around 5 volts or damage to the valve will occur.
One thing about running tetrodes or pintodes as triodes. A tube like a 12AU7 has a mu or AC gain of about 70 if I remember right and a 12AX7 has a mu of about 100. These valves are purposely designed to have lots of gain. I don't know what a 6V6 would give you if hooked up as a triode, maybe 10 or 20. I don't know but certainly would be much worse than most triodes designed to be voltage amplifiers.
Okay, now, does this mean that I can run the B+ at 800V and still run screen at 600 and grid to -94?
Well, seeing that it's late at night and my mind no longer is in its prime to think about circuit logistics, I figure we can talk a little about tubes for fun.
That makes sense what you're saying - triode connecting power valves doesn't give near the same voltage efficiency, which is why SET (single-ended triode) amplifiers using directly heated triodes like the 300B and 2A3 are known to be some of the worst in the efficiency category.
Which perplexes me, because I always thought that the whole upside to using tetrodes and pentodes was not only their increased capacity for voltage gain and efficiency, but also their linearity of amplification. After all, I thought that the whole craze with audiophiles and Hi-Fi category amplifiers was to generate more "raw" audio, that is, undistorted and more true to the recording.
12A series tubes are downright dirty when it comes to THD as I said earlier when driven hard - a lot of higher-fidelity amps use instead the 6SN7/6SL7 variations. Dual triode, but different structure and tolerances means a lot more linear levelling comes out.
The downside of triodes isn't just noticed in audio spectrums, but in everything else as well. The most popular series of Eimac tubes is their tetrodes, which is produced in as little as a 65W tube (4-65A) and up to 35kW dissipation, the 4CX350000D - be thankful I didn't post asking how to run that!
I have been able to track down, with a lot of effort, Eimac RF triodes, such as the 3-500 and 3-1000Z, but aside from the datasheets these tubes are rarer than the Yeti. They had really specialized uses, even in radio circles, and if I'm ever able to collect either of those, I'll consider myself lucky and turn it into a nightlight. Even rarer than that is Eimac pentodes - as far as I've been able to find, only the 5-500 exists.
Makes me wonder why most of the audiophile world is hellbent on directly-heated triodes for their end stages - even a bargain-bin brand 300B runs 300foramatchedpairnowadays,andI′veseenprecision−matchedaudiophile−grade300Bsonlinefor1200. Don't care how rich I get in later life, if I ever try to buy those feel free to find me and beat the common sense into me.
That being said, I think most of that culture thrives on the fact that a lot of these are subjective notions. We can look at datasheets and curves and see linearity, but what does that mean exactly? This is food for thought that if I make a bunch of money making amps (hey, a kid can hope, right?), maybe I'll be able to afford $10,000 of analyzers and a modern oscilloscope unlike my ancient S51B Berkeley stock and possibly quantify this madness.
Until that day arrives, I still would rather judge an amp by my ear.
In practicality though, I want this build to have a good mix of sounding good and being efficient. No super-audiophile-grade $100/piece capacitors, but at the same time no "Class A all the way!" and burn out my output trafos after a day of use.