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Mysterious diode identification help!

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Hmm. OK, well you've confirmed that C1~6 and the bridge rectifier diodes are OK.

Have you screwed the board fully to the chassis? There's a connection on the common of C1 and C2 that looks like it's supposed to be earthed to chassis. If C1 or C2 are faulty, the fuse will blow if that connection is earthed, but won't blow if it isn't.

And you've checked the six diodes in the oscillator circuit.

And you replaced the transistors, but it's possible that the replacement transistors failed and have now failed short. Can you measure collector-emitter resistance without power on the circuit. They should read open circuit or high resistance from collector to emitter.

What type of multimeter do you have? Is it digital or analogue?

You've checked the 15k resistors. The 0.2 ohm emitter resistors are very unlikely to be the problem. The two 3 uF capacitors are also not likely to have failed. Inspect them carefully though, for any signs of problems.

I doubt that the feedback transformer (T2) would have a problem.

That leaves the big inductor (external to the board) and the transducer, and the transistors.

I think it would be worth desoldering the transistors - all four of them - and carefully inspecting the insulating washers and the insulating collars for the screws. Replace the insulating washers if there is any doubt about their condition. You can use mica washers with white heatsink goop, or get grey-coloured flexible silicone-impregnated washers that have good heat transfer.

You said you replaced the insulating collars because they were cracked. Were they fitted in between the heatsink and the PCB, poking upwards into the screw holes in the heatsink? That's how they probably should have been fitted. What did you replace them with?

While the transistors are out, you can check for any collector-emitter leakage (use resistance range). When they're back in circuit, and screwed in, check resistance from the transistor case to the heatsink metal, for both heatsinks, using a high resistance range. Should read open circuit, obviously.

Have you been screwing both heatsinks to the chassis each time you've tested the board?

It's hard to know what to suggest next. The oscillator depends on the characteristics of the big inductor and the transducer in order to oscillate at all, so it's not possible to diagnose individual parts of the oscillator circuit.

Does anyone else have any suggestions here?
 

davenn

Moderator
Update:
Replaced the bridge rectifier diodes again and removed the screws from Q1 and Q2. I then attached it to the chassis and powered it on. The fuse did not blow. When I replaced the transistors I inspected those insulators for the transistors and they seemed fine. The transistors sit on insulating gaskets when attached to the heat sink and I replaced those as they were cracked.

are the transistor screws going through plastic or metal mounting tabs on the transistors ?

if metal tabs you need also to have the small circular bush washers that fit down the hole in the tab, isolating the tab from the screw, else those insulating gaskets behind the transistor shorted out


EDIT .... OK looked back at your pic in post #5.... they are metal TO3 canned transistors, there should be screw insulators


Dave
 
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KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Thanks Dave, I've already asked him about those insulating collars.

I was hoping someone might have ideas for how to diagnose a problem with the oscillator. It's difficult because you can't test it independently of the load. The load is required for the oscillator to oscillate, and it also sets the frequency. This makes it very difficult to diagnose. All I have really suggested is to check for faulty components.
 
Okay so I think it has to do with the inductor and transducers as I put everything back together ( fully grounding the chassis but this time I kept both the inductor and the transducers unplugged and this time it did not blow a fuse!

Last time I tested the board, I fully attached it to the chassis but also attached the inductor to coil and rf+ and that's when it blew the fuse.

So could I have the coil hooked up wrong? Thoughts?
 
I also mentioned earlier that I replaced the transducers as I left the unit on for too long and it overheated. The the old transducers had no markings on them and Branson was no help so I ordered some generic ones with these specs.

Material:aluminum cover & Piezoelectric ceramic
Static Capacitance :4800 PF
Radiating Surface: 45 mm
Resonant frequency : 40.0±0.5 KHZ
Impedance ≤20 Ω
Insulation Resistance:≥10000 M Ω
Power:50W
Size:45(D)*55(H)mm
G.W:280g

I have a feeling that this could also be a problem. Thanks everyone for the help thus far.
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Anything you do that stops it from blowing fuses is a good thing.

I don't see how you could have connected the inductor or transducer wrongly. But it's interesting that your replacement transducer might not be a proper match.

I have no experience with high power ultrasonic transducers so I'm not sure what to suggest. Your specifications seem OK to me, but I can't be sure.

With no load connected, the board won't oscillate. So disconnecting the transducer and inductor doesn't remove only those components from the equation.

It's possible that there's a shorted turn in the inductor, or possibly a leakage path to ground. How does the inductor look visually? Any signs of problems or damage? Also you could measure resistance between the inductor terminals and chassis, on the highest resistance range. You would need a "coil ringer" to detect a shorted turn in the inductor. You don't have access to an oscilloscope, do you?

It might be useful to try connecting a resistor between the oscillator output and the off-board inductor. Try around 100 ohms. If the oscillator starts up, that resistor will probably dissipate a large amount of power, so if you use a low power resistor it will probably go up in smoke. That could still be a useful test though. You could also try a high power resistor such as a 20 watt wirewound resistor. It's less likely to turn into a light emitting resistor, but keep it away from anthing flammable anyway.
 
Anywhere that I could salvage one of these big resistors from?

What about the fuse. How does slow blow fuses affect a circuit? Could the new transducers change the appropriate value for the fuse?

Is there any way to test transducers with a multimeter?
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
I don't know of anywhere you could salvage a big resistor from. No doubt there are types of equipment that have them, but nothing I know of, and no consumer product that I know of.

Have a look at http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/HL05006Z100R0JJ/HLB-100-ND/713668. It's a 50W, 100 ohm part. That's the sort of thing I'm thinking of.

I wouldn't change the fuse rating or type. If the new transducer needs more power than the old one, it will overload the oscillator. If that blows the fuse, then that's good because the oscillator transistors need to be protected from that kind of overload.

No, you can't test a transducer with a multimeter.

Perhaps you could look around for forums related to ultrasonic cleaners? It's definitely a specialised subject.
 
Diode

i think diode is 1n4004 and alway remember four diode is used for full wave rectification ..the four diode is used for rectification in any circuit only if output of transformer is connected to any of two diode.
 
Found this post on Google, great information I will be reading carefully to diagnose the exact same board.
Thought I would post to create a bookmark so I can find it later after I crack it open.
 
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