motor speed controler issue

[Bluejets]

I've yet to do that. was curious if there a way to test if I did cook something

How did you dertermine which cable was which...??

Yup...doesn't work ...and you've already found that.
No circuit diagrams....very difficult from a distance with limited knowledge/resources on your part.

 

[pevweb]

BTW...the photo shows a different unit from your link....???

Op's photos......View attachment 50026

hehe, yes, my first photo was just a stock photo to show the type of unit I had, busted!

 

[pevweb]

How did you dertermine which cable was which...??

Yup...doesn't work ...and you've already found that.
No circuit diagrams....very difficult from a distance with limited knowledge/resources on your part.

well, before soldering the new wire I took the time to make sure I knew which came from where. I even wrote down the order on a piece of paper before taking apart...so I'm 99.9999999% sure I got wires back where they were before...if only there was a way to test that!

 

[Minder]

Generally the two outer ends of the pot are connected to the L.V. supply one to -ve the other to +ve.
The pot centre/slider goes to the controller input I.C.
You could measure the three inputs and see what the result is with the pot non-connected.
M.

 

[Bluejets]

well, before soldering the new wire I took the time to make sure I knew which came from where. I even wrote down the order on a piece of paper before taking apart...so I'm 99.9999999% sure I got wires back where they were before...if only there was a way to test that!

So you did not use any type of multimeter or continuity tester...??
Therefore my previous suspicion may still be true....i.e. 2 x reds mixed up.

It may be that the pot is supplied with the same potential as the switch BUT it might also be the pot is on 5V line and your switch on a higher voltage in the above.

 

[pevweb]

So you did not use any type of multimeter or continuity tester...??
Therefore my previous suspicion may still be true....i.e. 2 x reds mixed up.

It may be that the pot is supplied with the same potential as the switch BUT it might also be the pot is on 5V line and your switch on a higher voltage in the above.

sorry, yes I had tested with continuity but said 99.9999% in the event I made a mistake when testing but highly doubt it. What do you mean by the difference between the switch and the pot? by the switch you mean the round knob I presume? if so, what do refer to as the pot then? pardon the basic questions , just not familiar with some of these terms

 

[pevweb]

Generally the two outer ends of the pot are connected to the L.V. supply one to -ve the other to +ve.
The pot centre/slider goes to the controller input I.C.
You could measure the three inputs and see what the result is with the pot non-connected.
M.

hi...what do you mean by measuring the inputs when pot not connected? you mean pull the connector out (the ones attached to the knob) and measure voltage from the pins on the board (with unit plugged in)?

 

[pevweb]

ok, so I've checked continuity again and all seems good.
as for voltage I did the following
hooked up the pwm to power then put my leads on the wires going to knob. here's what I got.

red - black = 5v
black - yellow = 0v (well, 0,01)
red -yellow = 5v


but now one of my leads created a short I think and nothing works now

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir pevweb . . . . .

(I) was curious if there(s) a way to test if I did cook something

Leave the extension wires connected as it sure looks like to me like that is error free.

This will solely be ohmic testing so NO power needed and both plugs being pulled out assures that.

Unplug both the 2 and 3 pin connectors, and initially just take ohmmeter in hand at its lowest ohms range to just see what you get in shorting its two test prods togther . . .right at a 0 ohm short . . . .kee-rect?
Then connect probes to each of the two pins of the 2 pin switch plug and flip the switch on and off to confirm shorting and non shorting.
That should all pass . . . . THEN . . . .extreme ends of reds- yellows and blacks shoud show that same continuity / shorting condition.
NOW you get down to probing at the plug end of the 3 pin connector end across the black and red and this time read the ohms present, which should agree with the ohmmic value, that hopefully, is stamped somewhere on the control pots body.
Likely possibilities . . .( 1000-5000-10,000 0r 1K -5K-10K ohms ?)
If you then put 1 probe on the pots center rotor connection YELLOW wire and the other probe on the BLACK pot connection wire it should vary from almost a short at its full CCW position to that pots marked resistance value, when rotated to its extreme CW position.
Same is true when you put 1 probe on the center rotor connection YELLOW wire and the other probe on the RED pot connection wire, except the pots resistance value will be at CCW position and run downwards in value and be almost shorted at full CW position.
Those conditions should then confirm good EXTENDED wiring continuity from plug to pot and good working pot values.
A open reading suggests the burning of an opened spot out of the pots resistance element, very close to either end.
Next consideration would be one or two of the 4 large power semiconductors on their 4 matching heat sinks being shorted.
Pass their numbers on to us for further analysis..

The Riorand Controller you led us / referenced to, seems to be a bit less electronically sophisticated in design than the photos of your actual unit . . . . . as is being the 9 ply . . . plywood . . . . m m m m m mmmm.


73's de Edd . . . . .


Now . . . . . I know . . . I'm definitely not sexy . . . nor am I being overly endowed . . . because . . . when I put my underwear on, I can hear the Fruit-of-the-Loom guys giggling.

.

 

[pevweb]

Sir pevweb . . . . .

(I) was curious if there(s) a way to test if I did cook something

Leave the extension wires connected as it sure looks like to me like that is error free.

This will solely be ohmic testing so NO power needed and both plugs being pulled out assures that.

Unplug both the 2 and 3 pin connectors, and initially just take ohmmeter in hand at its lowest ohms range to just see what you get in shorting its two test prods togther . . .right at a 0 ohm short . . . .kee-rect?
Then connect probes to each of the two pins of the 2 pin switch plug and flip the switch on and off to confirm shorting and non shorting.
That should all pass . . . . THEN . . . .extreme ends of reds- yellows and blacks shoud show that same continuity / shorting condition.
NOW you get down to probing at the plug end of the 3 pin connector end across the black and red and this time read the ohms present, which should agree with the ohmmic value, that hopefully, is stamped somewhere on the control pots body.
Likely possibilities . . .( 1000-5000-10,000 0r 1K -5K-10K ohms ?)
If you then put 1 probe on the pots center rotor connection YELLOW wire and the other probe on the BLACK pot connection wire it should vary from almost a short at its full CCW position to that pots marked resistance value, when rotated to its extreme CW position.
Same is true when you put 1 probe on the center rotor connection YELLOW wire and the other probe on the RED pot connection wire, except the pots resistance value will be at CCW position and run downwards in value and be almost shorted at full CW position.
Those conditions should then confirm good EXTENDED wiring continuity from plug to pot and good working pot values.
A open reading suggests the burning of an opened spot out of the pots resistance element, very close to either end.
Next consideration would be one or two of the 4 large power semiconductors on their 4 matching heat sinks being shorted.
Pass their numbers on to us for further analysis..

The Riorand Controller you led us / referenced to, seems to be a bit less electronically sophisticated in design than the photos of your actual unit . . . . . as is being the 9 ply . . . plywood . . . . m m m m m mmmm.


73's de Edd . . . . .


Now . . . . . I know . . . I'm definitely not sexy . . . nor am I being overly endowed . . . because . . . when I put my underwear on, I can hear the Fruit-of-the-Loom guys giggling.

.

thanks for the detailed homework!

took 2 pin and 3 pin connector off the board

put tester on 200ohm setting (lowest on my tester). Tester shows 1 when nothing hooked up. touching both lead gives me reading of 00.7

on the board and on the switch there's text indicating 100k. so I put my multimeter on the 2000k setting and here's what I found
Note, my knob clicks on on the off position which cuts off power to motor completely

results for 2 PIN connector:
knob set to OFF : no change 1
knob set to low : 0.0
knob set to mid-point : 0.0
knob set to max : 0.0
Tested this both at the switch level and at the connector level with same results

results for 3 PIN connector:
knob set to OFF : red-yellow = 96, black-yellow = 0
knob set to low : red-yellow = 96, black-yellow = 0
knob set to mid-point : red-yellow = ,47 black-yellow = 50
knob set to max : red-yellow = 2.4, black-yellow = 98
Tested this both at the switch level and at the connector level with same results

the 3 pins results seem to make sense...not sure what the 2 pin wire is supposed to do and why there is no resistance ever.

do these numbers make sense?


and good eye on the ply, Russian birch, my favorite to work with by far

 

[Bluejets]

the 3 pins results seem to make sense...not sure what the 2 pin wire is supposed to do and why there is no resistance ever.

That,s because the 2 pin is a switch and it is possible to switch it on and off by pushing or rotating the knob past the low position.
Other readings seem correct.

 

[pevweb]

well, the unit won't come on now anyway, I get no power coming out of it...something must have fried