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motor speed controler issue

P

pevweb

hey guys

bought a speed controller to go along with my wiper motor project...worked perfectly but then I decided to play with it! mine is similar to this
https://www.amazon.ca/RioRand-7-80V...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

the potentiometer came with 6 inches of cable. give or take. I wanted to extend that so I figured i would extend it by a few feet...when I first turned it on it didn't work as one of connections at the knob had come loose. fixed it and got it going again,,,but it's because the speed control no longer works. it's always set to 100% (mine came with a mini digital display to show percentage of power used) .Now it's always stuck on 100%. can't budge from there it seems. what could cause this behavior? what could I have broken?
 
Minder

Minder

What if you disconnect the pot altogether?
If it does not run, then it points to you not connecting the 3 wires correctly.
M.
 
B

Bluejets

Shouldn't run at all with the pot disconnected....sound like you've cooked something inside, more than likely , the output drivers.
 
Minder

Minder

That is what I was getting at! If the pot is disconnected and it does NOT run, then it points to incorrect connection when you DO connect the pot.
M.
 
P

pevweb

Minder said:
That is what I was getting at! If the pot is disconnected and it does NOT run, then it points to incorrect connection when you DO connect the pot.
M.
Click to expand...
right, if I take it off completely then nothing happens, when I plug back in I get power to motor but always 100%. I can turn down the speed like I could before
what could I look for on the board to see if there's something broken, burnt, etc.? I look and see nothing obvious. how can adding a cable extension to it cause to fail?
 
Minder

Minder

Are you sure you have the 3 pot connections correct?
Generally there is 0v at one end, +ve at the other end and the pot slider is the third connection, which varies the voltage as a potentiometer should.when rotated.
M..
 
ratstar

ratstar

Pots actually have 2 outputs, one the inverse of the other. (The input is in the middle.)
I spose the input and output being swapped probably useful as well.
 
P

pevweb

Minder said:
Are you sure you have the 3 pot connections correct?
Generally there is 0v at one end, +ve at the other end and the pot slider is the third connection, which varies the voltage as a potentiometer should.when rotated.
M..
Click to expand...
humm..well, I connected as it was before. is there a way to test or tell which wire should go where?
 
Minder

Minder

Only if the board end is labeled or marked somehow.
In some units like this, you can short the LV supply out with a mis-connection.
M.
 
73's de Edd

73's de Edd

Thir pevweb . . . . . . . ( and here I am . . . . posting irregardleth of having a speechth impediment )

If you were to have cut at the RED line, you would have easy visual reference to the marked plug in of the pot, and then you would have needed to have added 3 extender wires to stretch out to your desired longer remote repositioning of the speed pot.
Should you have maintained the same 3 . . . .A B C wiring relationships the unit should have worked .
Make a wiring interconnect BOO-BOO and you could have your problems !
If you tranposed A and C your pot would then be 100% adjusting down to 0% on speed controlled . . . . . a REVERSED pot control action .
If you transposed B-C and or B-A you could have your present problem that you are now experiencing . . .PLUS . . . as you were adjusting the pot from extreme end t end, its CCW to ground position would have enough voltage across it to go . . . .ph E E E E E E E w w w w . . . . and create a wide open burn spot on that pots resistance element, very near its extreme ground end.
(Testee- testee with ohmmeter to confirm )
a REEVALUATION . . . .

To start with, rewire the pot back as the original 30 cm length, and then see if it still runs full speed ( due to wiper to resistance element not getting a required lower ohmmage path to ground ).
If being so . . . ."To err is human " . . . . .and BOY! are you REALLY! being human, today.

KODACHROME . . . . .
upload_2020-12-1_14-25-10.png





73's de Edd . . . . .


My wife is such a bad cook, if we happen to leave any dental floss around in the kitchen trash, the roaches hang themselves.



.
 
Last edited:
P

pevweb

73's de Edd said:
Thir pevweb . . . . . . . ( and here I am . . . . posting irregardleth of having a speechth impediment )

If you were to have cut at the RED line, you would have easy visual reference to the marked plug in of the pot, and then you would have needed to have added 3 extender wires to stretch out to your desired longer remote repositioning of the speed pot.
Should you have maintained the same 3 . . . .A B C wiring relationships the unit should have worked .
Make a wiring interconnect BOO-BOO and you could have your problems !
If you tranposed A and C your pot would then be 100% adjusting down to 0% on speed controlled . . . . . a REVERSED pot control action .
If you transposed B-C and or B-A you could have your present problem that you are now experiencing . . .PLUS . . . as you were adjusting the pot from extreme end t end, its CCW to ground position would have enough voltage across it to go . . . .ph E E E E E E E w w w w . . . . and create a wide open burn spot on that pots resistance element, very near its extreme ground end.
(Testee- testee with ohmmeter to confirm )
a REEVALUATION . . . .

To start with, rewire the pot back as the original 30 cm length, and then see if it still runs full speed ( due to wiper to resistance element not getting a required lower ohmmage path to ground ).
If being so . . . ."To err is human " . . . . .and BOY! are you REALLY! being human, today.

KODACHROME . . . . .
View attachment 50018





73's de Edd . . . . .


My wife is such a bad cook, if we happen to leave any dental floss around in the kitchen trash, the roaches hang themselves.



.
Click to expand...
thanks for the reply

the cable strips are colored (black, yellow, and red) making it easier to ensure proper placement. I even saw an earlier picture I had of the controller and the wire colors match what I have now...I could try switching the A and C but I would surprised if that would work as that's not how it was before (as far as I can see)

now, does it matter that the wires I soldered were copper while the existing cables going from the speed knob to the controller were smaller and silver in color?
 
P

pevweb

Alec_t said:
What sort of insulation did they have? If they were bare copper and happened to short together, even briefly, the circuit could have suffered from excess current.
Click to expand...
they are insulated...mind you it's possible at some point that a short was created I guess
 
B

Bluejets

Didn't get the two reds mixed up by any chance..??
Or is it red and orange....anyhow, same query..

If you put it back the way it was and it's still not working, I'd suggest either a crook unit supplied or you've cooked something.
Make any errors at any time...??

BTW...the photo shows a different unit from your link....???o_Oo_O

Op's photos......t.jpg
 
Last edited:
P

pevweb

Bluejets said:
Didn't get the two reds mixed up by any chance..??
Or is it red and orange....anyhow, same query..

If you put it back the way it was and it's still not working, I'd suggest either a crook unit supplied or you've cooked something.
Make any errors at any time...??
Click to expand...


there is two sets of cables...one has three the other only two.. I made sure the red belonging to the bunch of three stayed in the same place, same for the cable of 2. I triple checked that part

to put back I would need to break the solders and connect short again (removing my extension)...I've yet to do that. was curious if there a way to test if I did cook something
 
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