KrisBlueNZ
Sadly passed away in 2015
LOL yes it is, and yes I do, but at random times. I'm unemployed and my sleeping patterns are more like sleeping scribbles :-/
Obviously. My point is, how do you know you've now thought of everything we need to know?I would have included that info if I had thought of it.
OK. How about pulsing the LED OFF for a very short time - too short to be visible - a millisecond, say - at regular intervals, for example once per second, to maintain the charge on a smallish capacitor used to power the micro and provide the MOSFET drive voltage.The switch will be used in high powered LED flashlights, mounted in the tail end. The board can only be populated on one side. The other side will have a spring that will be the (-) battery contact. Several different LED drivers will be used. The switch will connect in between the (-) battery terminal and the conductive flashlight body. The driver will connect in between the (+) battery terminal and the body.
OK, what does that LED "driver" actually do, apart from providing flashing modes and varying the brightness using PWM?
It doesn't have any inductors, so it doesn't boost the voltage. Does it provide current limiting?
What are you using it for?
What battery voltages do you intend to use?
You have not told us enough about the design.
From the simplistic side, why can you not give power to the pic portion of the circuit - I am thinking of a constant on to the pic from the batteries - the pic draws very few μA in its idle status.
It's not counterfeit if it is open source.I don't care if it works or not. I won't support counterfeiters. I have had my designs copied by Chinese manufacturers before. It might sound flattering, but it's financially devastating if you rely on it to make a living.
Marketing the open source certainly isn't, but copying the original appearance and using trademarked names without authorization for the purpose of deception definitely is.It's not counterfeit if it is open source.
Bob
OK, so that "driver" really does nothing except provide dimming and flashing options, and some poorly controlled current limiting.I was able to locate schematic of that driver. Looks like it might cause a .5v drop?
Yes, I didn't want to suggest this, but I'm afraid it's the only answer I can think of that might give this switch circuit a chance of being workable.Also, as a last resort, the drivers could be modified with a "drain" resistor across the inputs.