Marshall G50R CD , practise amp, 1999

[N_Cook]

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing the
main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from the
inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to remove it.
(note to myself, next time confronted with this situation, try a small
driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole in the steel and
push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried)
A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through anchored
plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway.
How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a couple
of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on , would need
some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to
tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to it
and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent finger
tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

 

[Meat Plow]

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from
the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to
remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this situation,
try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole
in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried) A
plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway. How on
earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a
couple of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on ,
would need some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive
screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to
it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent
finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't
remember any conundrums.

 

[N_Cook]

I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't
remember any conundrums.

Perhaps you have the knack of pushing inwards these coupled together black
2part cable grips and then replaced them from the outside. I don't remember
coming across a situation of having to push one inwards to release, rather
than compressing with mole-grips and pulling from the outside.

 

[Meat Plow]

Perhaps you have the knack of pushing inwards these coupled together
black 2part cable grips and then replaced them from the outside. I don't
remember coming across a situation of having to push one inwards to
release, rather than compressing with mole-grips and pulling from the
outside.

I wish it was a little clearer in memory but I don't recall anything of
notability besides the 1/4 jack was red on the end.

 

[N_Cook]

I wish it was a little clearer in memory but I don't recall anything of
notability besides the 1/4 jack was red on the end.

No red-ended ones on this model

 

[N_Cook]

Someone has taken a pic
http://www.chambonino.com/routework/routewk12d.jpg
The speaker leads enter between number 2 and 3 white pillared W/W resistors,
calling number 1 at the foreground. The underside metalwork is 1/2 inch
below the pcb but somehow the strain relief clamp is inserted in that gap
surrounded by the h/s and Tx underside metal etc

 

[N_Cook]

Someone has taken a pic
http://www.chambonino.com/routework/routewk12d.jpg
The speaker leads enter between number 2 and 3 white pillared W/W resistors,
calling number 1 at the foreground. The underside metalwork is 1/2 inch
below the pcb but somehow the strain relief clamp is inserted in that gap
surrounded by the h/s and Tx underside metal etc

And just to clarify. Before you can remove the pcb you have to remove the
speaker wire clamp as the wire has no slack between clamp and pcb loop
anchor.
Another manufacturing possibility is that foreground end face of the casing
is not bent right-angled into shape until completing the speaker wiring, it
is not fixed/spot welded at the corners, then you could use a standard
insertion tool.