Labelling Prototypes

[Ian Bell]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

If you're making a few the same, silk screening isn't too bad. You
make up the artwork using (for example) Adobe Illustrator, get the
screenmade, and use a hinge/table setup (a small gap remains between
the screen and the panel) to squeegee the paint onto the panel. A bit
of skill required, but the results are excellent. If you bugger it up
you can generally wipe it off and fix it up. Multiple colors etc. are
no problem. Don't get too fancy with placement or colors that have to
line up over a wide area- allow a mm or so tolerance. The screen costs
around $100 if you buy it with a wood frame. They can be cleaned
(leaving the pattern) and re-used a number of times for the same job,
or stripped (removing the pattern) and re-used a number of times. I
use a high-end screenmaker, most of the guys out there are T-shirt
types and their quality is dubious.

These days, I might get the company cutting the panel to do the
screening, so they have to deal with the mess and fuss.

 

[Martin Riddle]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need
labelling. So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper,
special transparent overhead projector type film with built in
adhesive and contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl
decals. I need something I can design easily myself on a PC and either
produce myself or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of
the above might work but before I take the plunge I thought I would
ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

Would this be in your budget? http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
I've used them once, around $100, results were nice.

Cheers

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

Would this be in your budget? http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
I've used them once, around $100, results were nice.

Cheers

The "Front Panel Designer" looks pretty nice. I am going to look at
that. Looks like it might be a nice piece of software to have.

Maybe allow for a better, more accurate means of proofing and deciding
on a vendor quote.

 

[E]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking particularly
of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example) containing pots,
toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling. So far I have
looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special transparent overhead
projector type film with built in adhesive and contacted a company that
does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need something I can design easily
myself on a PC and either produce myself or have produced at reasonable
cost. Any one of more of the above might work but before I take the plunge
I thought I would ask what others use???

I use white PVC electrical tape and marker pens.
Cheap & gets the job done.

-ek

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

Silkscreening. Even if a one-off.
Cheap, easy, professional-looking results.

Eggsactly. If it's just a one-off there is so much engineering cost in
it that the small overhead to make it look just _fabulous_ is not not
signficant. I suppose I could dredge up my Dymo labeller for that
1960-70s look, but why?

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/la/110708label-05.jpg/110708label-05.jpg
http://dianediana.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/blackwhite.jpg?w=500&h=243

The setup I use (Speedball, I think), has reusable screens, so once
you get going, you can change as often as your mind does.

AFAIK, all screens are re-usable until you break them. Most have the
same process- get the material stretched onto the frame (or buy it as
such), coat with emulsion (in film or liquid), allow it to dry, expose
with bright light (or UV), develop (warm water), allow to dry, harden
(optional), and use. No really nasty chemicals other than the ink
solvents (and you can use UV cured if you like which will minimize
VOCs, but the minimum quantities for some colors are prohibitive IMHO,
like $400 a color for some transparents).

BTW, that T-shirt screen maker has a pretty coarse mesh for doing
panel markings. Acceptable, perhaps, if you can design for it.

The only major investment for me was the light stand, though you could
probably DIY roll your own.
The lightbulb is about $10, and at least here, available locally.
5000K, I think. A Photo-Flood #12, IIRC.

Good luck.
- mpm

Craft and art stores sell screen printing kits (eg. Speedball). They
might not be optimal for graphic arts as opposed to fine arts type
applications.

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

I use white PVC electrical tape and marker pens.
Cheap & gets the job done.

-ek

Jeez. You can buy sheet fed labels just as cheap, and they do not
stretch or leave adhesive behind.

Crimany! The damned blue masking tape is better for the job than that
crap is!

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

You can make labels with some Avery stuff, they have a clear label thats
good for covering the top of a finished Avery label.

Cheers

Brady also sells label stock that has clear covers for each.
I have also bought Brady roll stock, made for their printers as it is
cheaper. Then, I can cut and paste (literally) an entire label onto a
cut sheet and then print onto it. Ends up a bit cheaper than cut sheet
label stock, but then gets re-costed in the labor it takes to set up the
print job.

 

[Jamie]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

For small cabinets I print out via laser in mirror form, the drill
locations, knock out locations, control labeling, logo's etc. all on a
single sheet of either ink jet photo paper or clay paper and iron it
on the surface.. when removed via wetting it, 99% of it comes out and
I touch up what I don't like.. then I spray it with a clear coat to
protect it..

P.S.
The cabinets I used either have a base color already on it that the
toner sticks to nicely or we spray it with a thin clear coat first..

It does give a shinny look if that isn't abjectable.

Jamie..

 

[Charlie E.]

You can make labels with some Avery stuff, they have a clear label thats
good for covering the top of a finished Avery label.

Cheers

I usually print on the 8x11 clear Avery lables using my color ink jet.
If you let the colors set, you get good life out of it. If paranoid,
the old technique was to print reversed on an overhead transparency
film, and then glue the colored side down. Lets you do a proto for
less than $10!

For a full size rack, you might need to split the graphics, and have a
seam somewhere...

I have also printed all the labels on smaller avery type clear lables,
and then xacto cut them out and attached just over the appropo button
or LED.

Charlie

 

[Baron]

Ian Bell Inscribed thus:

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need
labelling. So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper,
special transparent overhead projector type film with built in
adhesive and contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl
decals. I need something I can design easily myself on a PC and either
produce myself or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of
the above might work but before I take the plunge I thought I would
ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

A local company engraves plastic panels at very low cost. Many
different colours with white, red, green or black lettering. The
plastic is made from three layers and they remove the top layer by
engraving it with a high speed router type bit. Thing like pots,
switches and connectors can be mounted directly to the plastic panel if
required.

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

I usually print on the 8x11 clear Avery lables using my color ink jet.
If you let the colors set, you get good life out of it. If paranoid,
the old technique was to print reversed on an overhead transparency
film, and then glue the colored side down. Lets you do a proto for
less than $10!

For a full size rack, you might need to split the graphics, and have a
seam somewhere...

I have also printed all the labels on smaller avery type clear lables,
and then xacto cut them out and attached just over the appropo button
or LED.

Charlie

Printing on clear stock does not protect the printed media.

Print on white label stock and COVER it with a clear over-sheet.

Labels with direct exposed print, especially from a laser or ink jet,
do not usually last very long. Clear laminate on top of such labels
makes them appear more professional, and retains the integrity of the
print without smears or other undesirable happenstance.

 

[PeterD]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

Print to heavy paper, laminate top with plastic, and contact cement in
many cases.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

How many units, and how much of a prototype? Does it have to look
professional?

I've used a Brother label maker for one-of's. You can get label tapes
in various colour combinations, including white-on-clear and
black-on-clear. The clear tape allows the panel colour to show, and
the fact you've used individual tape labels doesn't show too badly.

Another poster suggested Front Panel Express - I've used them many
times, for both single panels and small quantities. FPE machines and
engraves panels from their pre-anodized stock, or from
customer-supplied panels.

These guys are good too:

http://protocase.com/

Not cheap, but top-notch quality.

 

[Ian Bell]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Cheers

Ian

Thanks for all the ideas. To answer some of the questions and add some info:

Yes, it is a one off

Yes it needs to look professional. For quantities I would normally get
it silk screen printed.

I am in the UK

I think the Avery and Brady clear label ideas are the same as the
transparent film I already have. Only problem with that is I find the
ink jet printing is not very dense so the label is hard to see against
the (nearly black) panel paint (and yes I am using bright colours).

I had not thought of silk screen printing at home. I had not realised
this was possible. Is there anyone in the UK doing this regularly that
can give me some pointers of what to get and where + how easy/hard it is
to do yourself?

Cheers

Ian

 

[Ian Bell]

Thanks for all the ideas. To answer some of the questions and add some
info:

Yes, it is a one off

Yes it needs to look professional. For quantities I would normally get
it silk screen printed.

I am in the UK

I think the Avery and Brady clear label ideas are the same as the
transparent film I already have. Only problem with that is I find the
ink jet printing is not very dense so the label is hard to see against
the (nearly black) panel paint (and yes I am using bright colours).

I had not thought of silk screen printing at home. I had not realised
this was possible. Is there anyone in the UK doing this regularly that
can give me some pointers of what to get and where + how easy/hard it is
to do yourself?

Cheers

Ian

I should alos have said I am aware of Front Panel Designer - the only
thing that puts me off is I think the resolution of their engraving will
not be fine enough for what I require.

I am also aware of protocase and may well use them in the future.

Thanks again for all the ideas.

Cheers

Ian

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

Thanks for all the ideas. To answer some of the questions and add some info:

Yes, it is a one off

Yes it needs to look professional. For quantities I would normally get
it silk screen printed.

That panel express link sounds like it then. If you want pro
appearance, it should be worth the less than $200. I cannot imagine it
being higher than that.

I am in the UK

The folks that asked that question are not observant enough to place a
lot of credence in their answers.

I think the Avery and Brady clear label ideas are the same as the
transparent film I already have.

Not really. The Brady labels are WHITE, and you print on that, apply
it, THEN you place the cover label over that to protect it.

Only problem with that is I find the
ink jet printing is not very dense so the label is hard to see against
the (nearly black) panel paint (and yes I am using bright colours).

Anyone that suggested printing on clear stock isn't very bright.

I had not thought of silk screen printing at home. I had not realised
this was possible. Is there anyone in the UK doing this regularly that
can give me some pointers of what to get and where + how easy/hard it is
to do yourself?

The "yudu screen printing machine" I posted a link to on Amazon looked
pretty nice. You would have to find a source for it over there though,
since they will not ship one out of the US.

http://www.amazon.com/Provo-Craft-Novelty-yudu-62-5000/dp/B0025T6V5C

You might find a local decorative engraver that will engrave it for
you, and you can do the colored enamel backfills ala Cloisonné. All
after you have the punch outs done, of course.

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

I should alos have said I am aware of Front Panel Designer - the only
thing that puts me off is I think the resolution of their engraving will
not be fine enough for what I require.

I am also aware of protocase and may well use them in the future.

Thanks again for all the ideas.

Cheers

Ian

Then, a local decorative engraver would be the choice for that.

I think that FPE does engraving at a higher degree of precision than
you apparently think they can.

 

[StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt]

  Printing on clear stock does not protect the printed media.

  Print on white label stock and COVER it with a clear over-sheet.

  Labels with direct exposed print, especially from a laser or ink jet,
do not usually last very long.  Clear laminate on top of such labels
makes them appear more professional, and retains the integrity of the
print without smears or other undesirable happenstance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Another idea I've used with good success:

You can make your own stick-on lables -

1) Create in PhotoShop or [software of your choosing]
2) Get an 8-1/2"x11" full size white label (the kind you peel the back
off of to stick.
3) Print lable to color printer.
4) Get a laminating machine
5) Take a laminating pouch, tear in half across the top or side seam.
Now you have (2) pieces, Each piece has the slick outside, and the
glue inside (which would normally get stuck to whatever you are
laminating when you put it through the machine.

I hope that made sense....!!

6) Put one of those pieces back in the box for next time. We won't
need it now.
7) Cut down the remaining piece so that it overlaps your artwork by
1/2" or so.

8) Now, sandwich it like this:

TOP - Laminating that you tore in half, shiney side up, glue side
down.
MIDDLE - Your artwork
BOTTOM - Then a big piece of paper on the bottom.

9) Run this through the laminator, placing the whole sandwhich in the
"pouch" that sometimes comes with some machines.
Me, I just run them through without a pouch - never had a problem.
Use enough heat. 110-120 ought to do fine!

10) Now, get a razor knife and cut out your decal. (Obviously, those
areas of the sandwich that were not covered by the artwork got glued
together!)

11) Done! Now, just peel and stick your custom-made laminated decal.

-mpm

You reminded me of the way I used to make some of one company I worked
for's product labels.

We bought the $3.50 per sheet 3M matte finish metal backed adhesive
sheets. They are silver with a matte print surface.

I printed really nice labels on the color laser printer, then ran them
through the laminator 2 times (inside card stock) to dry the sheet, and
fix the laser print job better. This keeps bubbles out of the laminated
finished product. THEN, I laminate them with the thicker lamination
stock which is available.

The ONLY drawback is the cut edges, and the prospect of delamination at
those fringe edges.

They stick great, and this stock is specifically made for permanence, so
the adhesive is real good.

The price is one drawback, but having them on hand for the next project
is always nice as well.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtoXf_
M8z6EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/oil_gas/-/node_RT5F7Q6KXRbe/root
_Q5FPBNFWN9gv/vroot_CSKM8L762Mge/gvel_FWB4BM70HKgl/theme_en_US_oilgas_
market/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

 

[Rich Webb]

What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking
particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example)
containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling.
So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special
transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and
contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need
something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself
or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might
work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use???

Try some of the water-slide decal paper, from places like
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/productlist.asp?catid=14&RootCatID=14

For use on a dark background, you would probably want the "white" decal
paper.

Silk screening onto the panel directly would probably give the best
results but there is some "NRE" involved.