Help with a Japanese Electrolytic Capacitor? prob an easy question!

[the great potato]

hi guys im rusty at a lot of this anymore and been searching on how to read these caps and so far my head hurts ...
can anyone help me with this? i have a Cap i need to replace on a motherboard. i can read the electrolyte caps easy, but this one is a solid japanese type, and its the first time ive delt with one. the numbers on it are, E97N, 560, 6.3v, sooo is it a 560 uF and of corse its 6.3v ? another question is can you replace these with reg Electrolyte caps? and third i have a Solid Japanese type that reads FP, 07Pd, 561, 6.3 would this cap be able to replace the other one? and final question can someone just simplify what that cap is ? EXP: (my guess for it) 560uf 6.3v, just so i know what i can replace it with . anyhelp would be so great thanks guys !

 

[(*steve*)]

A photo would help.

It might be tantalum, one of the newer polymer electrolytics, or something else.

 

[the great potato]

well the cap that needs replaced is missing from the board, so i cant take a photo of it, but i did a search on ebay for 560 uF 6.3v and found about the exact same caps,with the same numbering. so im guessing that i was right about the numbers. but can i replace the solid cap with a reg Electrolyte cap ? someone told me years a go a cap is a cap when comes to the ratings , but just wanted to make sure, cause i never dealt with these ones. here is a pic of the caps from ebay, only difference is the top letters and numbers. mine says E97N these say E45C , and i guessing those are the temp ratings, 97 degrees and the other 45 degrees Celsius.

 

[the great potato]

o yeah, to add this, i know the solid caps last longer and all im not to worried about the reg cap leaking or anything, just need to know if i can replace it with one.

 

[(*steve*)]

E97N and E45C are probably the series identifier for the capacitors. These capacitors are very new and are evolving at such a rate that there are more series that either of us have had hot dinners.

These capacitors generally have a lower ESR and longer life (and are smaller) than more traditional electrolytics, but you can probably replace them with a normal low ESR electrolytic, albeit with a shorter expected service life.

 

[the great potato]

well i got a gigabyte motherboard off a friend of mine like 2 years ago and he broke the cap off of it installing the board and he never noticed, but yeah he ran the board prob like a year and then upgraded and i bought the board off him and noticed the cap, he said it still works fine blah blah blah, so i got the board figuring i could replace the cap, i used the board a wile and its like the most pain in the butt board ive ever owned. It will like work one min then you restart and it wont work again. it only works when it wants to i guess, but things came up and i had to build a computer using this board..so yeah its back to its work one min not the next crap and i figured before i blame the board i should replace that cap. SO after along time of trying to track down that cap i ended up messaging a guy on ebay selling one and he gave me the info i needed. So i can finally put that cap back on and see if that's the problem. now im just trying to find a cap ... I have a cap that is marked 07 Pd ,561 6.3... im wondering if that cap would replace the other one. this one is off an old Asus Mobo that is burnt and is the same kind of cap. In my search on ebay for the 560uF i did see one that had the number 561 that said it was a 560uF cap... so if anyone could help me on that part now?

 

[(*steve*)]

You would need to refer to the manufacturers specifications (or measure them) to determine if 560 means 560 uF or 56 uF.

561 clearly refers to 560 uF, and if the capacitance of this range extends to 1000uF or more, then 560 probably means 56uF.

 

[the great potato]

" New You would need to refer to the manufacturers specifications (or measure them) to determine if 560 means 560 uF or 56 uF."

How do i go about that?? i have a multimeter but what to set it to and what not ?

 

[(*steve*)]

If your multimeter has a capacitance range, and if it goes up to 560uF, then set it to that range and place the probes on the leads of the capacitor. Read off the capacitance.

Capacitors don't have the exact value marked on them. For example, 56uF could read between 50uF and 60uF.

 

[the great potato]

another person on ebay got back to me as well, on there board the Cap is o38 ,560 ,6 so got the same results about off another person on the same board but it was made with different caps. the board has more of the same caps on it as well, so i can get a reading on a cap from the board to compare the replacement cap to.

 

[(*steve*)]

Yes, you can measure other similarly marked capacitors, but you will almost certainly have to remove them from circuit (i.e. desolder them) to do it.

However, if there are other capacitors that appear similar and have other than a zero in the last position, that will lend weight (one way or the other) that this capacitor is 56uF or 560uF

 

[the great potato]

just checked the board... every single cap on the board is the exact same cap, except one cap says 570 and is bigger than the rest ...=/ and my meter does have a capacitance range, but i cant get a reading ..but also i didnt remove the cap from the board so that might be why. ill have to try after i pull one off.

 

[the great potato]

got off one of the 561 caps and still cant get a reading off of it, my meater must not go that far in range i guess =/

 

[the great potato]

welp, Update! I looked around and found a 560uf 6.3v cap on another old board and soldered it on today, so far the troublesome board has surprised me a lot ! Apparently that was the problem all this time... It used to hang on boot up and other things, this time it booted into windows in about 9 sec, i was amazed !! so i really hope the board hangs in and runs better than ever. Thanks for all the help to (*steve*) thanks for everything man !