Help identifying power board component

[Nexarian]

Hello all

About a week ago a friend of mine brought me a security camera that had been dropped. Its a Pelco Spectra III SE series dome camera & wow is it nice. Link to camera info PDF http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...JxugUqdzopSLcb9vA&sig2=fVPrTxNNm6JlLAFukgOicQ

I repaired the physical damage & all was well until my friend connected it to power. He was using my variac as an extra precaution but ended up over volting the device as its meant for 18-30VAC.

He was quick on disconnecting the power, but the damage had been done. A component failed on the power board with label "C R 3 C" & I can't figure out what it is. I've searched the net, datasheets, lists, and so on but cant find any solid info.

Here is a picture of the problem component.

I'm guessing from the placement on the board & as its the first thing the positive current goes through that it might be a Diode or other voltage controller. lol

I determined by the logo that it was manufactured by BUTTERFLY which comes up as Butterfly DSP- which Sharp aquired in 1997 and thats about as far I get when it comes to manufacturer codes.

A few lists had entries with CR3 in item descriptions but they dont seem to be the right part and or have other extra numbers.

I'm pulling what little hair i have left out over this little part since its the only thing between a working camera & a 100+$ replacement power board.

I would appreciate any help on what this thing is & what I need to replace it. More pics can be provided if necessary. Thanks in advance.

 

[Harald Kapp]

Welcome to the forum.

Unfortunately your picture doesn't show. Please try again. "Go advanced" (button on bottom of the page) and use the "manage attachments" button (paperclip) to upload your image.

 

[shrtrnd]

Yes, we'll need a picture.
CR is often used to denote a voltage regulator, either a diode or a bridge rectifier,
but a picture is worth a thousand words. You may get lucky, diodes/bridges in
power supplies are readily accessible.
Is the component destroyed, or can you read any characters off of it?

 

[Nexarian]

Sorry about that, my session must have timed out & I used a bad link. Image attached.

 

[jpanhalt]

Looks like a two-terminal device that has no orientation band, unless the band is burned off.

Maybe a fuse? A current-sense resistor might be another option. Resistors often have a value on them. Can you measure its conductivity across the two pads? Is it the same regardless of the orientation of the probes?

John

 

[Harald Kapp]

The logo identifies this as a general semiconductor component (now vishay).

3C probably is the date code.

CR probably identifies the component, but I've been unable to locate it on the vishay website.

 

[(*steve*)]

CR3 could be a 12V zener like a CMHZ25273B

CR could be a zener diode or a TVS device like a SMAJ40A.

If reverse voltage killed it, then it's unlikely to be a bidirectional TVS diode.

See if it is across the power supply rails. If so, this lends weight to it being a zener diode (with a voltage higher than the normal supply voltage) or a unidirectional TVS diode.

The lack of a stripe tends to preclude the zener diode.

However, since this isn't an exact match on the code, it could also be anything else.

 

[nepow]

CR3C is likely to be a surface mount device. From what I can find it appears to be a 120v 500mW zener diode according to SMD coded devices. Check this first:
http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm
As already advised, I assume you have the necessary skills and competance to undertake this work. My answer is given only as a guard...please satisfy yourself that the device you seek is the correct replacement component.

 

[Nexarian]

Thanks for the replies I've been quite sick lately & haven't had the energy to do much of anything lol.

I've attached two more pics- one of the board where the diode was, and a drawing of the circuit.

The diode did bridge the main (+) and (-) input, I'm quite sure now that its a zener diode (surface mount).
I did see the 120v 500mW in the code book, but the component failed way before 120v was reached.

Thanks to you all, I'm much closer to repairing this camera