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Typically the SSRs have an LED in an opto-coupler input that needs a current limiting resistor. Sometimes they add an inverse-parallel diode across the LED to protect against reverse polarity. Depending on the minimum control voltage, there may also be a visible LED in series with the opto-coupler LED that lights up to let you know a control voltage has been applied. All this LED stuff requires a couple of volts and a few milliamperes of current to get the SSR output to turn on. Not usually a problem with control outputs that sink or source current because you can wire accordingly... but the 10 kΩ "pull-up" is problematical for directly driving an opto-coupler, and the comparator current sinking capability is a little wimpy too. The two conspire to require that a transistor be added to reliably control either a relay or the chosen SSR. That sucks. For a penny or so more the Asian manufacturer could have included the transistor on the circuit board. Caveat emptor.Ouch, I didn't think the SSR's input Z (440Ω) was that low. Sorry about that!
Chris
It's worth trying. That would only add only six milliamperes to the sink current when DO is low but it would drop Vcc = 6 V down to about 1.8 V when DO is high, (6)(440/1440) = 1.8. That may or may not be enough to reliably turn the opto-isolator on. This is assuming the SSR control inputs are connected between DO and common. I vote to try it. Simple is always better if simple works.I would think that paralleling the 10KΩ with a 1KΩ should do the trick and eliminate the need for an NPN driver.
Chris
theres a step up board that raises voltage i think was by 4-6 volt on wish.com for cheap maybe something like that might help?
i actually never got this finished, i went off on other projects and decided to come back to it when i am far more knowledgeable about electronics lolhe hasn't been back for a month or so, so maybe the SSR method worked for him ?