Glueing PCB's Together

[D from BC]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I have:
2 part epoxy
polyester resin + hardener
anaerobic adhesive (threadlocker)
2 part Methacylate adhesive
Automotive gasket sealer

Which is best?
Should I order some special glue instead?
If needed I can cure it in the kitchen oven..

My lesser choices were:
Superglue
Contact cement
RTV Silicone
urethane
D from BC

 

[John Popelish]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I have:
2 part epoxy
polyester resin + hardener
anaerobic adhesive (threadlocker)
2 part Methacylate adhesive
Automotive gasket sealer

Which is best?
Should I order some special glue instead?
If needed I can cure it in the kitchen oven..

My lesser choices were:
Superglue
Contact cement
RTV Silicone
urethane

I would use slow cure epoxy (the slower the cure time, the
higher the thermal resistance, generally). You can make
liquid epoxy more thixotropic (less drippy and more
semi-solid) by adding talcum powder to it.

 

[mpm]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I would think Epoxy.
Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to
plated through holes?
I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then
again, I never really did that well in shop class. -mpm

 

[John Larkin]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I have:
2 part epoxy
polyester resin + hardener
anaerobic adhesive (threadlocker)
2 part Methacylate adhesive
Automotive gasket sealer

Which is best?
Should I order some special glue instead?
If needed I can cure it in the kitchen oven..

My lesser choices were:
Superglue
Contact cement
RTV Silicone
urethane
D from BC

Epoxy, and not too much of it. Just clamp them together nice and snug,
and cure at room temp. Be careful about alignment!

John

 

[GregS]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I have:
2 part epoxy
polyester resin + hardener
anaerobic adhesive (threadlocker)
2 part Methacylate adhesive
Automotive gasket sealer

Which is best?
Should I order some special glue instead?
If needed I can cure it in the kitchen oven..

My lesser choices were:
Superglue
Contact cement
RTV Silicone
urethane
D from BC

Silicone usually works for most things. I would use that or Plummers Goop.
With Plummers Goop, it will not come apart. It will also take a few days to dry, so will silicone
Epoxy or anaerobic stuff will be much faster. Roughen up surface for silicone and Plummers Goop., or
even epoxy. Thought about using fiberglass epoxy?

greg

 

[D from BC]

I would think Epoxy.
Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to
plated through holes?
I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then
again, I never really did that well in shop class. -mpm

lol..pop rivets ..I might do that..
It gets me thinking..
I don't know why I'm thinking glue...
I'll check out using bolts, clips ....maybe the soldered through hole
parts might keep the boards together..

There's no eyelets, or plated through holes..

I have SMD parts on one side and through hole parts hand soldered on
both sides to join layers.

It's DIY homebrew stuff..

D from BC

 

[D from BC]

Silicone usually works for most things. I would use that or Plummers Goop.
With Plummers Goop, it will not come apart. It will also take a few days to dry, so will silicone
Epoxy or anaerobic stuff will be much faster. Roughen up surface for silicone and Plummers Goop., or
even epoxy. Thought about using fiberglass epoxy?

greg

fiberglass epoxy?
Is that just epoxy with fiberglass in it?
Or do you mean automotive epoxy?
I get the big can

I didn't favor silicone due to slow cure..
Also..silicone doesnt have nice flow...however I have fixes for that..
I know there's 2 part silicones but haven't tried to getm yet.

Plummers Goop...
That made me think of PL400 heavy duty sub floor construction adhesive
from Home Depot (hardware store)
http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=22&subid=187&plid=287
If it's good enough for frozen lumber..it's gotta ge good PCB glue!
...just kidding..
D from BC

 

[Barry Lennox]

I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
double sided board.

I've seen it done with a nut and bolt at each corner. That's probably
the easiest and quickest.

But, why? Scrap 2 sided is just as easy to get as single sided.

Barry

 

[Rich Grise]

lol..pop rivets ..I might do that..
It gets me thinking..
I don't know why I'm thinking glue...
I'll check out using bolts, clips ....maybe the soldered through hole
parts might keep the boards together..

There's no eyelets, or plated through holes..

I have SMD parts on one side and through hole parts hand soldered on
both sides to join layers.

It's DIY homebrew stuff..

Go with the epoxy. The mere mention of pop rivets makes my hair stand
on end =:-O . And nuts and bolts to hold two boards back-to-back is just
bush.

If you have access to a planer, you could shave them from .062 to .031,
then the final board would look real. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

fiberglass epoxy?
Is that just epoxy with fiberglass in it?

Yes, just like the PCBs are made of.

But you don't need any glass for the joint.

Or do you mean automotive epoxy?
I get the big can

Not if you're talking about the kind for fiberglas body work.

I didn't favor silicone due to slow cure..
Also..silicone doesnt have nice flow...however I have fixes for that..
I know there's 2 part silicones but haven't tried to getm yet.

Plummers Goop...
That made me think of PL400 heavy duty sub floor construction adhesive
from Home Depot (hardware store)
http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=22&subid=187&plid=287
If it's good enough for frozen lumber..it's gotta ge good PCB glue!
..just kidding..

Geez, D, the boards are _made of_ epoxy! How could you even _contemplate_
anything else?

Sheesh! ;-)
Rich

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

I would think Epoxy.
Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to
plated through holes?
I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then
again, I never really did that well in shop class. -mpm

You've never used copper pop rivets to hold sockets to a steel
chassis, so you can solder the rivet and socket to the chassis?

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

Go with the epoxy. The mere mention of pop rivets makes my hair stand
on end =:-O . And nuts and bolts to hold two boards back-to-back is just
bush.

If you have access to a planer, you could shave them from .062 to .031,
then the final board would look real. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Wouldn't it be a bit easier to just start with 0.8mm material?


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[D from BC]

Yes, just like the PCBs are made of.

But you don't need any glass for the joint.


Not if you're talking about the kind for fiberglas body work.


Geez, D, the boards are _made of_ epoxy! How could you even _contemplate_
anything else?

Sheesh! ;-)
Rich

lol...
Makes sense epoxy based PCB's glued together with ....what else..more
epoxy!

k...Epoxy wins...

But I like the cool factor of an anaerobic adhesive.
I have some left over Loctite threadlocker for nults and bolts..
No mixing...
Uncured portion is cleaned away.
Nice flow.
Clueless it it'll work which makes it fun

The polyester resin + hardener I thought would be a cheapass
alternative to epoxy..But I'm using such small quantities..so epoxy
rules..
I think the polyester resin fumes are bad too..
D from BC

 

[JeffM]

My lesser choices were:
Superglue
Contact cement
RTV Silicone
urethane

If you *ever* use RTV on electrical gear,
DON'T use the stuff you'd get from Home Depot:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....afe+zz-zz+qq-qq+messy+suitable-for-*-*-metals

(I couldn't get the nicely threaded version to work for me):
http://groups.google.com/group/sci....afe+zz-zz+qq-qq+messy+suitable-for-*-*-metals

 

[John Popelish]

The polyester resin + hardener I thought would be a cheapass
alternative to epoxy..But I'm using such small quantities..so epoxy
rules..
I think the polyester resin fumes are bad too..

It has crummy adhesion to epoxy, too.

 

[JackShephard]

I would think Epoxy.
Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to
plated through holes?
I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then
again, I never really did that well in shop class. -mpm

Place vias, and then solid copper wires strategically around the board.
Solder them up during the epoxy step for both board to board conduction
paths, as well as physical stationing.

 

[Rich Grise]

Wouldn't it be a bit easier to just start with 0.8mm material?

Yes, if he hasn't ordered the material yet - but if he hasn't, why not
just order double-sided? So I ass-u-me-d that he had ordinary .062
boards on hand that he wanted to glue together.

D, what exactly _do_ you have so far?

Thanks,
Rich
P.S.: in American English, it's "gluing".

 

[D from BC]

Yes, if he hasn't ordered the material yet - but if he hasn't, why not
just order double-sided? So I ass-u-me-d that he had ordinary .062
boards on hand that he wanted to glue together.

D, what exactly _do_ you have so far?

Thanks,
Rich
P.S.: in American English, it's "gluing".

0.032" total thickness...floppy stuff
I have about 12sq ft of single clad PCB in my junk storage.
But my projects are often 2 clad..
Hence..the glue idea..

glu ing...check
D from BC

 

[mpm]

You've never used copper pop rivets to hold sockets to a steel
chassis, so you can solder the rivet and socket to the chassis?

First of all, I think pop-rivets get undeserved bad press!

Maybe if they called 'em "Miracle Rivets" or "Oxy-Rivets?"
(Nevermind, that's a Billy Mayes TV flashback - That guy would sell
his mother!!.)

I think pop-rivets are God's gift to engineers. (You can quote me on
that!)
Of course, it could also explain why they won't let me back in the
Shop anymore...

....unless the polyurethane foam packager gets clogged or goes off
line, and then all of the sudden I'm McGuyver or something.

 

[mpm]

Hand routing single-sided boards is becoming a lost art, I fear....
-mpm