Enclosure advice please - glueing metal

[Rich Grise]

Thanks Rich. I've had a look at the self-adhesive standoffs. They would be
ideal but unfortunately the bases are too big (0.5" square) for this unit,
due to the holes for LEDs and buttons). I'd have to cut so much off the
bases that they might not have enough sticking power left. The studs idea is
a good one. Unfortunately this panel isn't having silkscreen - it is being
engraved and dyed instead. I'm going to try out some of the ideas in this
thread, such as the inner panel, and see how it goes.

Someone else mentioned double-sticky tape - I've seen double-sticky foam,
but I don't know what thicknesses it comes in. But I'd think about 1/4" to
3/8" would be about right, and thru leads can poke through the top layer
of adhesive without hurting anything.

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

Thanks for the suggestion. That could well be easier & cheaper than a metal
inner panel. I am keen on the idea of coutersink screws pointing into the
unit too.
I know I lose a lot of the contact surface area this way, compared to a
single complete inner panel, but the area is still much greater than that of
a hex spacer or a screw head by itself. Also, these plates become very low
precision items that I can get made easily and cheaply somewhere (just a
square of metal with a countersink hole in the middle).

There are outfits that could assemble punches that could make that
spacer in one hit, and it could be almost any material you'd like,
and can have adhesive on either side as well, if you'd like. Just
poke a hole where there's anything sticking out (or in?), and let
the rest stick.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

A couple of question re the Pem fasteners - Do they *really* not show on the
other side, even for a panel thickness of 0.06" (say using the SO series,
for instance)? And do I need to buy a "Pemserter" press, as recommended by
them, or can I get the same result with a standard miniature vice?

I've seen them in use, and a hasty job will show, but if it's done right,
(and you don't dimple the sheet metal), they can be made "practically"
invisible. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

Hi,

I have a small front panel made of anodized aluminum (0.06 inches thick). I
need to space off the PCB (buttons, LEDs etc.) behind it by approx 0.25
inches.

The PCB has 4 drilled holes for M3 machine screws. My problem is that I
can't put holes through the front panel. My idea at the moment is to glue 4
hex spacers to the back of the front panel and then bolt the PCB to it.

So far, I've tried nickel-plated brass spacers attached with epoxy ("plastic
steel" by Draper) on to the sanded aluminum. This came apart after some
pretty gentle leverage testing.

Just wondering (a) if I'd be better using nylon spacers - would these glue
better to the aluminum? And (b) what type of glue should I use for metal
spacers (or nylon spacers) on to anodized aluminum?

Try glueing something with a lot of surface area to the inside of the
enclosure. Either an aluminum or plastic plate with cutouts for LEDs and
other front panel h/w and drill/tap/countersink holes for the standoff
hardware.

 

[SioL]

Someone else mentioned double-sticky tape - I've seen double-sticky foam,
but I don't know what thicknesses it comes in. But I'd think about 1/4" to
3/8" would be about right, and thru leads can poke through the top layer
of adhesive without hurting anything.

Good Luck!
Rich

1mm thick foam. Its a very dense foam, more like rubber.
Don't know how many "

SioL

 

[Rich Grise]

1mm thick foam. Its a very dense foam, more like rubber.
Don't know how many "

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/loadpag...73&term=Foam+Tape+With+Adhesive+On+Both+Sides

Copy and paste that if you've got word wrap set to less than about 150. ;-)

Have Fun!
Rich

 

[N. Thornton]

Hi,

I have a small front panel made of anodized aluminum (0.06 inches thick). I
need to space off the PCB (buttons, LEDs etc.) behind it by approx 0.25
inches.

The PCB has 4 drilled holes for M3 machine screws. My problem is that I
can't put holes through the front panel. My idea at the moment is to glue 4
hex spacers to the back of the front panel and then bolt the PCB to it.

So far, I've tried nickel-plated brass spacers attached with epoxy ("plastic
steel" by Draper) on to the sanded aluminum. This came apart after some
pretty gentle leverage testing.

Just wondering (a) if I'd be better using nylon spacers - would these glue
better to the aluminum? And (b) what type of glue should I use for metal
spacers (or nylon spacers) on to anodized aluminum?

Many thanks,

Dave

I think I may know what you need. I havent used this myself, but have
watched it used and fought with the results, and been very impressed.
Its a marine quality double sided adhesive tape, with 2 adhesive
phases. The initial glue allows a little repositioning, but when you
press it hard the microballs break and release the serious glue. And
by god its strong! Theres no way your 1.5mm al will come off in one
piece. I've seen it used in extremely tougher environments, nothing
like production stereos. IIRC it was about 50GBP for a 50m roll, about
75usd.

I dont know the exact name of the stuff unfortunately, but hopefully
this is enough info to track it down. Good luck.


In case you want something simpler, there is one other option thats
cheeky and cheap, but can sometimes be made to look very good. That is
simply to use the prettiest screws available, and mount them
immaculately with their heads out for all the world to see. But, dont
use tools on the heads, the heads need to stay immaculate, and align
the heads perfectly. Chromed cheesehead screws, or maybe black hex
types sometimes look good like this - but only if it fits in with the
rest of the styling. Suggest use of some wood or rubber lined grippers
to hold the heads while the nuts are tightened: dont use screwdrivers,
allen keys, etc.


Regards, NT