GE 24" Double Wall Oven installed with Jbox touching the back panel

[Jeffro Ifta]

Hi there,

I have really been enjoying reading this forum and I am reaching out for some help.

So a handyman came over and helped me remove the old Whirlpool accubake and install the new GE 24" Double Wall Stove: Model #JRP28BJ3BB

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/JRP28BJ3BB

After the install, something is gnawing in my brain and I need some advice.

When we removed the Whirlpool accubake I discovered that it was sitting on runners and it also had a very long flex cable attached to the jbox. No problem, we were able to remove it quickly from the jbox, which was positioned just below the level of the runners and was accessible via a lower drawer. I have not been able to find info in the manual for this oven with any information about ideal jbox location:

https://www.whirlpool.com/content/d...02/installation-instructions-8303871-RevA.pdf
The new GE Stove Model JRP28BJ3BB has a flex cable that is exactly 4 feet long. It did not reach the original jbox location and so we pulled on the jbox and discovered there were several feet of conduit available. This allowed us to connect the the oven conduit to the jbox with ease. We made all the connections and the oven worked perfectly. We then shut off the breaker, ran the conduit from the oven into the jbox, secured it and attached all the corresponding wires and then covered it with the plate it came with.

When we pushed the oven back in it will not go flush to the wall because it is hitting the jbox. I have read that the maximum temperature (if doing a self cleaning) can make the back of the oven go up to 200 degrees. Is this dangerous due to the location of the jbox?

I've read that per this model the recommended location of the jbox is 23 7/8" above the runners, or directly below them for access. We did not measure but I think it is pretty close to this distance above the runners.

We haven't used the oven as of yet for an extended amount of time and I am worried if this is a bad thing to have the jbox right against the oven backing. I've read conflicting info; some people say the jbox cannot be recessed, others say it must be recessed, others say to connect flex wiring to the whip and connect the jbox low to the floor. Should I just have an electrician out to the house and check everything out?

tl:dr: I am worried that my jbox is too close to the back of the oven. Can this cause a fire? Should I reposition it?

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Yes, its dangerous because it will melt the wires in the box and cause a short. You don't want direct contact between oven and box.

The box can be recessed but the cover needs to be accessible. It can be anywhere behind the stove. I'd advise against putting it low to the floor in case there's a flood and water could enter box. Usually it's located directly behind the point where the whip comes out of oven so there's enough slack to pull out the unit to access the junction.

Yes, calling an electrician is wise. The most important thing is that the circuit breaker and wire are properly sized.

 

[Jeffro Ifta]

Thank you for your reply! We discovered that there is also a regular 110 outlet behind the stove that is powering the igniter to the gas range. There is literally an orange extension cord plugged in that then goes underneath the range to the plug! The only problem with the jbox relocation is the 4 ft whip. We are trying to figure out the ideal location, because the whip is too short to attach to the original jbox location close to the floor.

Thanks for the input about the jbox being recessed as long as the cover is accessible!

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Box looks like a 4 11/16" square by 2 1/8" deep.
It could be changed to a box that's 4 11/16" by 1 1/2" deep and still be within acceptable box fill rules.

There shouldn't be any tape between the BX cable and the fitting in the box. The cable also needs to be clamped with 12" of box and within 4 1/2 ft.

 

[Jeffro Ifta]

You sir are dead on accurate!

I spoke with a trusted local electrician whose has been really forthcoming and very accessible online. He has a really secure plan. Can you tell me what you think or if there is a possibly cheaper alternative (quoted 400-650 for total parts and labor) because my parents are in a tight financial situation after paying a pretty penny for the stove!

Plan:

Cut open a section of drywall behind the new oven to access inside the wall - from the floor up about 2-3 ft. If drywall and not plaster, the section will be reattached afterward and the seams spackled (air-sealed per fire code). No need to sand and repaint since it's hidden.

Install 12AWG flexi inside wall from existing outlet to a new GFCI TR outlet just inside cabinet on the left. Cap off existing outlet.

Undo existing flexi for 240V oven line and run flexi from basement inside the wall with a new jbox inside the wall mounted to a stud. Bury existing flexi conduit inside wall. Reattach oven whip to new box cover.
Confirm existing wiring gauge of these 2 circuits are up to code. Apply fire caulk in any accessible openings for pipes in the footer.

Per fire code, we should also cover the cavity under the oven (like the fire caulk, code requires prevention of any and all potential updrafts inside walls and floors - this is something any proper village inspector would require).

We'll research oven manual to find best setback distance from the wall and perhaps lay a small wood spacer on floor behind the oven.

How does this plan seem to you?

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

I can't speak specifically to your plan because their are too many variables.

For instance; If the receptacle box is fed with nm into a plastic box, you can't use FMC cable. (There is no such thing as "flexi"). The existing BX cable is obsolete and its nearby cousin, MC cable is often used in its place. If used concealed in walls all the fittings have to be straight without bends which may make it prohibitive to use.

The quote given by Electrician seems reasonable and moreover he will make sure all is proper. I'm all for being thrifty, but i don't see the sense is spending a couple thousand for a new range but not a few hundred more to make sure it's installed properly.

What is the Kw rating of this range compared to the old one? Is anything else tapped off the brach circuit? Is Al and Cu wire used?

If you insist on doing it yourself, go to city hall and ask to pull a homeowners permit.
They are not the enemy, they will work with you, make suggestions you probably haven't considered, and most of all make it safe and legal. Remember, Insurance claims can be denied if unpermitted work is found, and when the home is sold you will be asked to disclose if any work was done without a permit. Not trying to scare you, just saying sometimes it's not worth it to cut corners.

 

[Jeffro Ifta]

You have been really helpful.

I am on board with doing it right, just trying to raise the moolah. My folks took a big hit buying the new oven and thought it would be plug and play.

I am going to to my best to make sure I get the electrician to get it installed properly so I can rest easy.

You raise a lot of terrific points and I'm gonna do my best to get this puppy put in.