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Farberware Food Processor FP3000FBS

Your are welcome,
This is what we do here, help;)

And for that I am extremely grateful!

I have carried out further testing, and the results are below:

We can go on finding the fault.

First thing is to check the DC voltage on DZ1,
12VDC expected,it should be present both in the ON an OFF states.
What do you get?

DZ1: ON = 12VDC, OFF = 12VDC

Then check the DC voltage on DZ7,
12VDC expected in ON state,0V in off state.
What do you get?

DZ7: ON = 12VDC, OFF = 0.45VDC

Then check the DC and AC voltage on R24,
12V to 0V is expected in all states and speeds.
What do you get?
a total of 10 measurements: 5 for DC,5 for AC( in 3 speeds+pulse+off).

R24 (SP = Speed, P = Pulse):

VAC: SP1 = 7.8, SP2 = 7.8, SP3 = 10.2, P = 10.2, OFF = 0
VDC: SP1 = 3.7, SP2 = 3.7, SP3 = 4.8, P = 4.8, OFF = 0

There appears to be a slight difference between SP1/2 and SP3/ Pulse. Voltages rounded up as the figures fluctuated slightly to the right of the decimal point.

N.B. the "Speed" settings on the processor are as follows:

SP1 = "Dough"
SP2 = "Slice/ Shred"
SP3 = "Chop"
Pulse = Motor runs for as long as the "Pulse" button is held down. It allows the user to manually "pulse" the food processor motor.
Off = Self explanatory


How do these figures look? Are they what is expected? Though there are differences in voltages between the speed settings, when the motor runs it sounds exactly the same whatever speed is selected. I assumed that if it's actually running as intended, there would be a more noticeable difference in motor speed. I could do with an RPM meter to find out for sure!
 
Yes please, If you can ,measure RPM it may help.

From the measurements it looks like you should be getting 2 speeds.
VDC: SP1 = 3.7, SP2 = 3.7 , SP3 = 4.8, P = 4.8
SP1=SP2 and SP3=pulse (the later group is faster).

SP3 and pulse look to be fine(maximum speed).
Does pulse function in the correct way(pulse when pressed only)?

I would expect a difference between SP1 and SP2 such that SP1<SP2, but the measurments don't differ.

Note:
The proper way to measure the PWM(read as speed control ) signal on R24 is with an oscilloscope .
I assumed you don't have one, so we are using your DMM.
This is isn't accurate for this kind of signal,only indicative, but it should do.
 
Thanks again for helping Dorke. I will get back onto testing it again tonight, and also looking at what's written on Q2-Q5.

BTW, how can I check for RPM (or as close as) using a DMM?
 
I don't know of a way to test RPM with your DMM.
Since you brought it up,I assumed that you have a Tachometer.

As it is now, the ratio of speeds(a naive calculation) should be 3.7/4.8 about 79%.
I don't know what it should be,but it may not be a noticeable difference .
A tachometer measurement isn't a must.
 
Yes please, If you can ,measure RPM it may help.

From the measurements it looks like you should be getting 2 speeds.
VDC: SP1 = 3.7, SP2 = 3.7 , SP3 = 4.8, P = 4.8
SP1=SP2 and SP3=pulse (the later group is faster).

SP3 and pulse look to be fine(maximum speed).
Does pulse function in the correct way(pulse when pressed only)?

I would expect a difference between SP1 and SP2 such that SP1<SP2, but the measurments don't differ.

Note:
The proper way to measure the PWM(read as speed control ) signal on R24 is with an oscilloscope .
I assumed you don't have one, so we are using your DMM.
This is isn't accurate for this kind of signal,only indicative, but it should do.

Dorke, your deductions are similar to mine. I assumed that SP3 and P are the same speed, with P simply being operated manually. SP1 and SP2 I would also assume would have different speeds to each other, and SP2 I would assume would be slower than SP3.

Pulse works simply by running the motor when pressed and held. As soon as you release the button, the motor stops. For all other speeds/ functions (SP1 to SP3), the motor will continue to run once these buttons are pressed and released. To stop the motor, you press the Pulse button, which also doubles up as the off button.

And yes, unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope :-(

I will attach the PDF users guide, that way you can see exactly how the unit is meant to operate.
 

Attachments

  • FP3000 Use and Care Manual.pdf
    963.4 KB · Views: 31
I don't know of a way to test RPM with your DMM.
Since you brought it up,I assumed that you have a Tachometer.

As it is now, the ratio of speeds(a naive calculation) should be 3.7/4.8 about 79%.
I don't know what it should be,but it may not be a noticeable difference .
A tachometer measurement isn't a must.

Ah, crossed wires (pun intended for an electronics forum!), and I also misread your quote:

"The proper way to measure the PWM(read as speed control ) signal on R24 is with an oscilloscope .
I assumed you don't have one, so we are using your DMM"


I thought you mean that we were using my DMM to measure speed control (RPM), but I missed that you were talking about an oscilloscope. My reading comprehension let me down (goes to sit in the corner with dunces hat on!)

No, I do not have a tachometer. Well I do have one in my car but I doubt that will be much help!

Oh yes, one thing that did cross my mind is that I have been testing the food processor without the blades attached. With it on its side and with its electronic guts hanging out for testing, I thought it prudent that all spinning blade attachments be removed for obvious safety reasons. I wonder if the blades being different sizes and weights may have a bearing on the speeds? If a heavier attachment is used on the same speed as a lighter attachment, then it's likely to run slower. At least, I would assume so. Perhaps this is how the processor is meant to be operating?
 
The only problem I see with speed is the fact that I would expect SP1 to give a lower reading than SP2, which it doesn't.

The speed ,in all cases would be lower under "food load processing".
Maybe it is time to assemble the unit back and make a speed test under food load in the bowl .

Do you use the "Dough"- SP1 state in practice?
 
Could you please tell what is written on TR1,
the 3 terminal Triac on the black Heat-sink,starts with BTA.

And X1 ,the light blue part near Q4.
 
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The only problem I see with speed is the fact that I would expect SP1 to give a lower reading than SP2, which it doesn't.

The speed ,in all cases would be lower under "food load processing".
Maybe it is time to assemble the unit back and make a speed test under food load in the bowl .

Do you use the "Dough"- SP1 state in practice?


To answer your last question first, yes, my other half says that they do use the "dough" setting when making dough. I'm told that dough making often has its own setting, though quite why dough needs a different speed is beyond me as I don't cook or bake!

Yes, I would expect a difference between SP1 and SP1, otherwise it's pointless having two separate buttons. Unless the manufacturer thought no-one would actually notice no difference in speed despite buying a food processor with "extra" speeds, but could still sell it to people thinking that they would get more features?!!!

I've had it all back together and just ran the processor (with no attachments) to see if any obvious difference could be seen/ heard. In fact, despite different voltage readings between SP1/2 and SP3/ Pulse, the motor sounds exactly the same when running at all four speed selections. I'm listening out for a difference in tone/ frequency that would indicate the motor was running at a different speed but cannot seem to hear any.

I'll get my better half to try it out next time they are baking and see if it's any different with a food load.
 
Could you please tell what is written on TR1,
the 3 terminal Triac on the black Heat-sink,starts with BTA.

And X1 ,the light blue part near Q4.

TR1 was very hard to read. In fact, when I first looked at it there didn't appear to be any writing on it at all. By using my camera on maximum zoom, and holding a lamp at a certain angle, I could just make out the writing. It appears to show the following:

TR1:

BTA12 6000
GK17C VU
CHN 510


X1 was easier to see.

X1 = 4.19


Pictures attached showing them both. Very thankful for modern day zoom cameras that make reading the minuscule writing on components much easier.IMG_20171109_223810.jpg IMG_20171109_223933.jpg
 
I don't bake either.
Here is a food processor that has just 2 buttons,they make dough with it as well...13:00 onward.
Do test the processor and report the result.

Thanks for the part numbers,
that was to satisfy my curiosity.

BTW,
the Triac part should probably read BTA12600C
 
I don't bake either.
Here is a food processor that has just 2 buttons,they make dough with it as well...13:00 onward.
Do test the processor and report the result.

Thanks for the part numbers,
that was to satisfy my curiosity.

BTW,
the Triac part should probably read BTA12600C


I couldn't tell if that was a "C" or a "0" at the end of that Triac part number. Looking again, I am certain that you are correct (and likely it will match up to a proper part that way).

Food processor is now all re-assembled and ready to use. Once it has been used I'll report back if it's noticeable when using the different speed settings. As said, cooking/ baking is foreign to me. I can rebuilt cars from the ground upwards, assembled/ install/ operate computers, rebuilt/ repair guitars, repair simple electronic instruments/ items etc., but operating an oven, washing machine or microwave stumps me! Well, anything beyond the most simple of functions. I'm sure if I was interested enough I could learn more, though I'd rather take them apart and fix them than actually use them. Same with food processors - much easier to just go to the shops and buy stuff already made than use them for processing food. Still, other half is happy about it so that makes me happy.

Once again, thank you so very much Dorke for all your help in bringing this food processor back to life. I have also learnt more about electronics in this process, though I am still very much at the beginner end. I'm keen to learn more.

As said, I will report back on the food processor once it has been used a few times. I also have my next project lined up - a Technics hi-fi tuner/ receiver with an odd infra red remote control issue. The unit doesn't respond to the remote unless you physically put pressure on parts of the case, and some of the panel functions don't work unless you do this too. Odd!
 
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