Maker Pro
Maker Pro

exists an etch resistant pen from corner drugstore/office supply ?

R

robb

trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob
 
L

Leon

trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob

Staedtler Lumocolor 318-9 Fine.

Leon
 
Hello Rob,

trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

Nothing is better than just doing the iron-on over and learn from the
previous attempt. Clean your copper with a scrub pad thoroughly and
iron with more heat and pressure, use the top edge of the iron. The
paper your using may not have the right finish.

More info on my webpage

http://www.oldtemecula.com/theremin/board-etching.htm


For a little touch up, I have had the best luck with Bic Wite Out
pens.

http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do...Flag=true&y=15&x=32&Nr=100000&Ntk=all&An=text


Black markers can work but the results are nothing to write home
about.


* * *
Christopher

Temecula CA.USA
http://www.oldtemecula.com
 
R

robb

Leon said:
Staedtler Lumocolor 318-9 Fine.

Leon
Thanks Leon,
i read about staedler pens used in plotters but...
does that ink need to heat treated to work ?
thanks again,
rob
 
T

Tom Biasi

robb said:
trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob

Try a regular Sharpie. It resists feric chloride and ammonium persulfate.

Tom
 
R

robb

Hello Rob,

Nothing is better than just doing the iron-on over and learn from the
previous attempt. Clean your copper with a scrub pad thoroughly and
iron with more heat and pressure, use the top edge of the iron. The
paper your using may not have the right finish.
yea, i tried three times and the first was the best go ???

i am trying a double sided board which is the real trouble as the
2nd heating messes up the other side's etch mask. i tried putting
paper towel, then tissue paper but it still causes problems i
think i maybe moving the board slightly and that is trashing the
resist lines.

thanks for info and ideas,
robb
 
J

JeffM

Christopher,
I'd be nice if you would pick a Username to use instead of
just duplicating your very long obfuscated email address.
christopher@ NOSPAMoldtemecula.com said:
Nothing is better than just doing the iron-on over
and learn from the previous attempt.
Clean your copper with a scrub pad thoroughly
Agree. Don't get in a hurry. Prep is critical.
Use a Green Meanie and detergent. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
and iron with more heat and pressure,
He may may not have the iron quite hot enough
but otherwise either of those may tend to just spread out the toner.
Again, I would say "Don't get in a hurry".
Too short a dwell time with the iron
is what I found to be my initial problem.
LIFT the iron to move it.

Don't get impatient taking off the paper/plastic either.
Let it cool completely first and be gentle peeling/removing.
For a little touch up,
I have had the best luck with Bic Wite Out pens.
The stuff for Xerox copies seems like a natural match.
I used nail polish I got at the 99c store
and cut the brush bristles at a steep angle to get a point.
Black markers can work
but the results are nothing to write home about.
I found them completely unsuitable. The ink was just too thin.
 
R

robb

Tom Biasi said:
Try a regular Sharpie. It resists feric chloride and ammonium persulfate.

Thanks for idea Tom,
I planned to use a muriatic , peroxide , water etchant but i will
try it out just to see
rob
 
R

Rich Grise

Try a regular Sharpie. It resists feric chloride and ammonium persulfate.

I once bought a special "resist pen", and except for the name stamped
into the side, it was indistinguishable from an ordinary Sharpie.

Cheers!
Rich
 
C

Clint Sharp

robb said:
trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob
I've used Staedtler permanent OHP pens successfully for many years for
'simple' hand drawn PCBs and touching in blemishes in photoresist after
developing. Also used them with PCB transfers (anyone remember them!)
 
R

RST Engineering \(jw\)

Sharpie. It resists ferric, ammonium, and hydrochloric.

Jim
 
J

Jamie

robb said:
trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob
Use the permanent Sharpies. sold every where.
in fine and large tip.
 
J

Jamie

robb said:
Hello Rob,



from the


yea, i tried three times and the first was the best go ???

i am trying a double sided board which is the real trouble as the
2nd heating messes up the other side's etch mask. i tried putting
paper towel, then tissue paper but it still causes problems i
think i maybe moving the board slightly and that is trashing the
resist lines.

thanks for info and ideas,
robb
You iron both sides at the same time.

In your art work, have 2 alignment holes just out side the
trace region that you can later cut off or use 2 mounting
holes that you may have in your art work.
pop out these 2 holes in the final art work on the printed
laser paper. use one side as a marker to get the holes pre drilled
in the board. knock out the holes in the other side of the art work.
using 2 small screws and nuts, put them on each side at the same
time. Find your self a block that will fit between these 2 hole's, so
that you can iron. or.. line up one side first, iron it on. which will
make it stick. then flip it over, place the other sheet on, and iron
that. Using the holes as alignment or course.
etc.
I do this for quick and dirty jobs, it works very well.
The only hassle is if you're doing double sided cross through.
you need to solder on each side with a jumper pin. The solder does not
flow well to the other side because of no plating in the hole.
I found my hot air pencil actually works well in pushing solder
in these holes to connect to the layers.
 
D

D from BC

trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob

One time I did consider searching for and trying out pens but decided
not to. I didn't feel like making a special trip just for a pen.

Instead I've tried the following alternatives:

* Nail polish + brush
* Small brush and spray paint.. (1st make spray blob on card board.)
* Lacquer in medical needle.
* Stencil and spray paint
* Scotch clear tape
* Over clear tape + rework with dremel tool
* Silicone in medical needle.
* Glue gun glue

D from BC
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

D said:
One time I did consider searching for and trying out pens but decided
not to. I didn't feel like making a special trip just for a pen.

Instead I've tried the following alternatives:

* Nail polish + brush


So your boards match your nails? ;-)


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
R

robb

RST Engineering (jw) said:
Sharpie. It resists ferric, ammonium, and hydrochloric.

Jim
great, sharpie and hcl something i already have....
thanks for reply,
robb
 
R

robb

Jamie said:
Use the permanent Sharpies. sold every where.
in fine and large tip.
Thanks jamie,

and i learned there is an ultra-fine also , it makes a pleasant
50-70 mil line well YMMV my hand is not so steady

robb
 
T

Tim Williams

Works for me. So far I've done four or five PCBs with a Sharpie. Helps to
go over and re-ink the pattern, I've had one with somewhat spotty tracks-
looked like wood grain.

Tim
 
R

RST Engineering \(jw\)

Don't use blue or green Sharpies. The acid eats right through them.

Jim
 
C

crominator

trying to touch up and fill in slight mishaps/gaps with DIY
"laser jet" to PCB transfer resist ?

after the transfer ....

so i was wondering what to use to touch up the transfered resist
trace image ?
are there any "brand" ink/pigment pens at local office supply or
corner drug that is known to work for this application ?

thanks,
rob

A Sharpie or fingernail polish. The fingernail polish is easier to
use if thinned about 50% with acetone. Apply with a pointed brush.
 
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