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exists a xenon strobe chemat to erase UV EPOMs ?

D

D from BC

is a xenon strobe light suitable/efficient for erasing uv EPROMs

are there any details that should be attended to if the answer is
maybe ?

i did google and these found sirtes
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/strbfaq.htm
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_strbfaq.html

would the sites have what i need to make uv erasing strobe ??

maybe i just need to read more

thanks,
robb

Dunno...
I unsuccessfully Googled for a xenon spectral graph some time ago.

My curiosity was for xenon exposure vs halogen exposure on
photosensitive pcbs.

Some of the xenon products (certain colour temperature) for car
headlights are obviously heavy at the blue end. A clue for more UV.

I'd be funny to know if a disco strobe at max flash rate can erase a
UV erasable ROM. :)




D from BC
 
D

Don Klipstein

Dunno...
I unsuccessfully Googled for a xenon spectral graph some time ago.

My curiosity was for xenon exposure vs halogen exposure on
photosensitive pcbs.

Some of the xenon products (certain colour temperature) for car
headlights are obviously heavy at the blue end. A clue for more UV.

HID car headlight lamps are metal halides. The xenon there is mainly an
inert ingredient, producing some light before the real active ingredients
vaporize. Xenon does make a nice marketing buzzword though.
The more-blue automotive HIDs have indium in them, which produces little
UV. Most metal halides made for producing white or colored visible light
don't make a lot of UV, usually less than mercury vapor lamps of the same
wattage.
I'd be funny to know if a disco strobe at max flash rate can erase a
UV erasable ROM. :)

I would try a medium flash rate. Maximum flash rate means less energy
per flash, and the energy storage capacitor is at a lower voltage, so the
xenon does not get quite as hot and has a smaller percentage of its output
being UV.

I don't expect a cheap xenon strobe to do well however. EPROMs are
erased mainly by shortwave UV, and cheap flashtubes are made of a
borosilicate glass, which blocks shortwave UV.

If you can find a germicidal lamp that is mechanically and electricaly
interchageable with a fluorescent lamp, you are in business. Look for
G4T5, G6T5, G8T5, G15T8.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

D from BC

HID car headlight lamps are metal halides. The xenon there is mainly an
inert ingredient, producing some light before the real active ingredients
vaporize. Xenon does make a nice marketing buzzword though.
The more-blue automotive HIDs have indium in them, which produces little
UV. Most metal halides made for producing white or colored visible light
don't make a lot of UV, usually less than mercury vapor lamps of the same
wattage.


I would try a medium flash rate. Maximum flash rate means less energy
per flash, and the energy storage capacitor is at a lower voltage, so the
xenon does not get quite as hot and has a smaller percentage of its output
being UV.

I don't expect a cheap xenon strobe to do well however. EPROMs are
erased mainly by shortwave UV, and cheap flashtubes are made of a
borosilicate glass, which blocks shortwave UV.

If you can find a germicidal lamp that is mechanically and electricaly
interchageable with a fluorescent lamp, you are in business. Look for
G4T5, G6T5, G8T5, G15T8.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])

Yeah... I was surprised to see some proclaimed Xenon headlights with
filaments and no power supply required!
IFAK..xenon HID lights have no filament.
The picture on Ebay Item 260197487128 looks sans filament.
It also makes sense that a power supply is needed.

20 000K produces a deep blue.
But, you're saying it's a lamo UV level :( Bummer...

My interest was in making a collimated UV point light source to create
perpendicular shadows.
It's possibly a little better than a germ tube from a ray point of
view.


D from BC
 
M

Mike Harrison

is a xenon strobe light suitable/efficient for erasing uv EPROMs

are there any details that should be attended to if the answer is
maybe ?

i did google and these found sirtes
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/strbfaq.htm
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_strbfaq.html

would the sites have what i need to make uv erasing strobe ??

maybe i just need to read more

thanks,
robb

I have a handheld UV eraser using what looks like a xenon tube. I don't know if it's made of quartz
to help UV transmission, but does erase very quickly.
Sold by Dataman : http://www.dataman.com/WebPages/ProductView.aspx?pid=16
 
R

Robert Baer

Don said:
It would have to have a quartz flashtube rather than a glass one.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
And would be essentially useless, i think because the UV does not
last long enough to discharge the EPROM(s).
 
R

Rich Grise

And would be essentially useless, i think because the UV does not
last long enough to discharge the EPROM(s).

They claim it will do a 27C256 in 25 seconds - if you try one and it
doesn't do that, could you sue them? ;-)

They also say you shouldn't do microcontrollers, because they can
take longer, and the tube can overheat, so they must be pumping
some power through it. (into it?)

Cheers!
Rich
 
R

Robert Baer

Rich said:
They claim it will do a 27C256 in 25 seconds - if you try one and it
doesn't do that, could you sue them? ;-)

They also say you shouldn't do microcontrollers, because they can
take longer, and the tube can overheat, so they must be pumping
some power through it. (into it?)

Cheers!
Rich
A flashtube gets warm on one flash; 25 seconds of *continuus* UV may
be sufficent to erase an EPROM but a flashtube will not cut it.
 
R

robb

Don Klipstein said:
[trim]

If you can find a germicidal lamp that is mechanically and electricaly
interchageable with a fluorescent lamp, you are in business. Look for
G4T5, G6T5, G8T5, G15T8.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])

I did do that Don and it worked great !
a G4T5 and installed in a kitchen cabinet application micro
fixture (my stock) so for about $15 outofpocket

i just put it in a large tin can on two wood blocks and slid 6
EPROMs under it about 3/4" clearance , put top on and plug it in
(no human exposure) and 15 minutes later tested and done.

thanks for the help,
robb
 
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