Electronic Circuit error

[duke37]

You need to localise the fault.
Remove Q1 and see if the voltage is pulled low.
Connect a link to replace Q1 emitter/collector and look at the effect.
If the voltage is pulled low, remove D1. If the voltage then stays up, check D1 for short or correct direction.

I do not find it easy to check Veroboard connections.

 

[endlessparadox]

You need to localise the fault.
Remove Q1 and see if the voltage is pulled low.
Connect a link to replace Q1 emitter/collector and look at the effect.
If the voltage is pulled low, remove D1. If the voltage then stays up, check D1 for short or correct direction.

I do not find it easy to check Veroboard connections.

Just precise what part is Q1 and D1

 

[(*steve*)]

Just precise what part is Q1 and D1

They would be the parts labelled as D1 and Q1 on the schematic you've provided to us.

 

[(*steve*)]

That image is a bit out of focus, but it is clear that your soldering is a bit rough.

It looks like you may have some shorts across strips, and some joints may not be making contact.

Are the strips 4th and 5th from the bottom shorted together?

 

[endlessparadox]

That image is a bit out of focus, but it is clear that your soldering is a bit rough.

It looks like you may have some shorts across strips, and some joints may not be making contact.

Are the strips 4th and 5th from the bottom shorted together?

i did continuity test nope and it is my 2nd time and i have this problem 2 times a row

You need to localise the fault.
Remove Q1 and see if the voltage is pulled low.
Connect a link to replace Q1 emitter/collector and look at the effect.
If the voltage is pulled low, remove D1. If the voltage then stays up, check D1 for short or correct direction.

I do not find it easy to check Veroboard connections.

let me check and write back

 

[davenn]

way too small we cannot pick stuff out clearly .... up the size to 800x600 pixels

and show the top side from directly above as well at 800x600

 

[davenn]

And davenn point i simply dont understand it,he is telling me to cut a big red zone where there is nothing soldered there just an empty track what is the point? the relay 2 coil input and the output was separated in the middle if i didnt put it in the circuit.

im sorry if im annoying if you dont have the patience

we are all running out of patience because you wont listen to what you are being told

ONE MORE TIME

You haven't cut tracks between the relay terminals where you need to ... therefore they are all shorted out

 

[(*steve*)]

According to your layout shown in your first post you have not shown us the whole circuit here.

We should be able to see 7 positions to the left of the IC, but we can only see 4.

 

[endlessparadox]

Works now problem was the IC was burnt and that i only had to move the lower alternative on track to the right

 

[hevans1944]

Well, all's well that ends well. Glad that you "discovered" the burnt IC and were able to "move the lower alternative on track to the right" (whatever that means). Good thing, too, that you fixed a socket in place for the IC... that makes it so much easier to change out those puppies when wiring mistakes crispy-fries them. We probably were not of much help in troubleshooting your problem, but perhaps you were nevertheless able to learn something here. Thank you for solving your problem and reporting back the results.

I am guessing your project now causes the relay to energize and turn on a light (or lights) when the daylight illumination of the cadmium sulfide light-sensitive resistor becomes sufficiently low enough. Make sure the light (or lights) the relay contacts turn on don't accidentally illuminate the CdS photo-sensitive resistor, causing it to decrease in resistance and turn said lights off again. This could result in a low-frequency oscillation of the relay contacts because there is a time delay in the resistance response of the CdS sensor to changing levels of illumination. Typically it takes much longer for the resistance to increase with decreasing illumination than it does for the resistance to decrease with increasing illumination.

 

[Cannonball]

We still need a schematic.

 

[hevans1944]

We still need a schematic.

Nah. The OP claims, in post #29, that the problem is fixed. No further "troubleshooting" is necessary, so no need for a schematic at this late date. Besides, a schematic (of sorts) was provided in the image attached to post #10.

Apparently the only thing missing from that image was the power supply schematic, consisting (presumably) of a step-down transformer with a 14 VAC secondary connected to a full-wave, discrete diode, rectifier bridge with a 1000 μF, 50 VDC, filter capacitor and a 7812 voltage regulator. The 7812 output was supposed to be connected to a common LED, in series with a 1 kΩ current-limiting resistor, to indicate when the power supply was operational. However, because the OP is a novice at this, and currently exhibits poor soldering/construction techniques, the power supply was inoperable because of an unspecified wiring error. Post #29 says that problem is fixed without specifying any details.

This entire thread has been an exercise in the futility of trying to extract information from beginners. They simply don't know what is important and what is irrelevant. Most of them (and this OP is no exception) don't know how to take well-composed, well-lighted, sharply focused pictures, nor do they understand how important such images are for on-line assistance from afar. Time to move on to something else.