Dryer motor wiring have diagram

[John Roberts]

I just want this thing to run. How do I wire it for 110v to just come on and blow air. can somebody help me out.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir John Roberts . . .

If this is an otherwise fully functioning unit, why not start with looking at that shown cluster of wires at the motor and then pulling the YELLOW wire that feeds 220 down to the heater element, and tape up its connector and lash and set safely aside.

That seems like it should then just blow cold air without heat.
If you read the instruction book that may already be considered and possible with a like proper setting of knobs or controls already..

" How do I wire it for 110v "

That statement is a bit fuzzy . . . . but if you ONLY have 110VAC, that AC LINE power would connect to the L1 terminal on the left and the N terminal connection in the center.
The right L2 connection only comes into play in getting a full 220 VAC to that " CURRENT HOG " of a heating element.


73's de Edd

 

[John Roberts]

Sir John Roberts . . .

If this is an otherwise fully functioning unit, why not start with looking at that shown cluster of wires at the motor and then pulling the YELLOW wire that feeds 220 down to the heater element, and tape up its connector and lash and set safely aside.

That seems like it should then just blow cold air without heat.
If you read the instruction book that may already be considered and possible with a like proper setting of knobs or controls already..

" How do I wire it for 110v "

That statement is a bit fuzzy . . . . but if you ONLY have 110VAC, that AC LINE power would connect to the L1 terminal on the left and the N terminal connection in the center.
The right L2 connection only comes into play in getting a full 220 VAC to that " CURRENT HOG " of a heating element.


I dont have the rest of the dryer and I wasnt watching when they took it apart. But I know this motor was working. So your saying the L1 terminal (black wire?) and the N terminal(white wire?) will be what gets this thing going. Because I tried that and it didnt work. I was hopeing there was more to it. Like Im missing a capacitor or something. Thank you for any help.

 

[Bluejets]

Line to M4 (white)....Neutral to M5 (tan).....Earth wire to Grn 14p . As colours on the motor do not match the drawing, perhaps there are terminal markings on the motor terminal white block? One added precaution, this is an "open" motor frame and dangerous to operate outside of original encasing( dryer)

 

[John Roberts]

Line to M4 (white)....Neutral to M5 (tan).....Earth wire to Grn 14p . As colours on the motor do not match the drawing, perhaps there are terminal markings on the motor terminal white block? One added precaution, this is an "open" motor frame and dangerous to operate outside of original encasing( dryer)

Thank you. It worked. Im glad I asked, that was so simple. I kinda assumed white was neutral and I figured I was just missing something. any use for the rest of the wires or can I just clip them off.

 

[Bluejets]

Just tape/isolate them I guess. They were originally used to drive the heater circuit via a centrifugal switch inside the motor.

Operation was, heater comes on only if selected AND motor was running.

Others I've seen are a little more safety orientated and operate the heater via a belt switch so if the drum is not revolving, the heater will not come on.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir John Roberts . . .

When you just done what you did, you bypassed the switch inside the timer from its B to C terminals that normally activates the machine, with the timer knob, but you also bypassed the protective thermal limiter.

Here is the present wiring flow . . .

You have HOT AC coming in from the L1 terminal and right to the M4 terminal of the motor and it passes inside and thru an internal thermal breaker and then to the combined START and RUN windings of the motor . (No capacitor is used on this type of motor . . . .its using brute force inductive starting)
The other end of the motor windings connect to one of two centrifugal switches within the motor housing.
( The far right one is being associated with the heating element, to be sure that it can not activate without the motor and its blower running . . . so put that aspect out of your mind.)

Our route of interest from those two right motor windings is their connection down to terminals M5 which then makes a circuitous loop to the left to go to the timer and then routes back to your Press to Start switch.and then out of that Press to Start switch to pass to the left and go down to M6 terminal or to the left to the door switch.
If the Dryer door is closed, the PINK power loop continues to the left and finally connects to your AC power Neutral / COLD connection. OR, If the door is open, the power follows the GREEN loop and lights up the inside of your dryer.

Ready to power up ?

Got the door closed . . . then if you press the Press to Start switch..
The HOT AC power from L1 flows up to M4 motor terminal and thru both the motor windings and thru the centrifugal switch down to M5 and that ends up at the now closed Press to Start switch that you are holding in, and the power loop then continues thru the closed door switch and eventually to the Neutral / Cold AC power terminal.

HOUSTON ! . . . . we have a complete closed power loop ! Prepare for ignition . . . .

The motor makes an initial power surge and fierce spin of its armature and that momentum is great enough to swing the centrifugal switch over and open contact with the START winding and just leave the motor RUN winding in circuit Also, the the movable centrifugal switch transitions to now making contact with M6 terminal.
If you check out that power loop, you will now see, that just completed switching action ,is now holding your Press to Start connection for you . . . you lazy dude.
The motor now operates until you remove power and it runs down. Then the whole cycle can repeat from a dead start.
I have also marked in the end of dry cycle buzzer in BLUE, BUT, that is dependent upon the timer and its drive motor functioning, as is achieving any timed running of the dryer motor.

As it stands, a pull off connection from the timer B and its other sides companion at C pull off connection and connecting to a Power Toggle switch of a safe 10A /125VDC rating should let you hyave a MAIN POWER SWITCH, to power up the dryer WITHOUT a heating element.

Thereby letting you use it for WELL spin dried or WELL wrung out clothes, lest you encounter mildew aromas emanating forthwith, if not being dried quickly enough, by you now being without any heated acceleration.

Thasssssssit


Doodles . . . .

" any use for the rest of the wires or can I just clip them off."
If no dryer HEATING function is needed, the yellow boxed area can go.
Or some of the TIMER area if you know what you are clipping.

73's de Edd

 

[John Roberts]

Hey man thank you I did enjoy reading that. I appreicate the time taken to do all that.