Cutting PCB's effectively

[Jeremy D. Grotte]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

 

[Walter Harley]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized [...]
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently [...] ?

I've heard it's easier to shear them if you heat them up first. Never tried
it myself (yet).

 

[Rene Tschaggelar]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?

I do have desktop tool with a shear 20cm (8") wide for 1.6mm Epoxy,
1mm Alu, Brass, Copper and the like and perhaps 0.8mm Iron. It also
bends Alu, Brass, Copper, Iron and punches.
They are available in various widths.

As immediaate solution I'd use a metal hand saw with a 30cm(15") long
blade, approx 1cm deep and 0.7mm wide. Those with a bow around them.

Rene

 

[Ban]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save
a bunch of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has
28 (14x2) boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels,
standard FR4 1/16" thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to
route them out. I bought a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels,
hand gets really tired after a few cuts, although the wheels do last
for awhile. Then I bought a good Black&Decker 16" variable speed
scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine blades, high speed, slow speed,
various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's really chew up the
blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm butter with
it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's,
and actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of
sending them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas,
any ideas where I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

I use a 2" diamond circular blade on a table-mounted saw, but beware that
blade cost a bit more than a Drehmel.

ciao Ban

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized [...]
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently [...] ?

I've heard it's easier to shear them if you heat them up first. Never tried
it myself (yet).

With paper-based phenolic PCB material (that nice-smelling brown or
ivory colored stuff), you HAVE to warm it up, or it cracks.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Fred Bloggs]

With paper-based phenolic PCB material (that nice-smelling brown or
ivory colored stuff), you HAVE to warm it up, or it cracks.

Nonsense-

 

[Joseph Legris]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

Get a pair of heavy straight sheet metal shears and cut them apart. The
result is very clean. It takes a lot of force, so wear gloves.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

Nonsense-

Yes, there are cold-shear/cold-punch types, but this is NOT true of
the bulk of the material used in consumer products.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Andrew VK3BFA]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

The best of the lot (as suggested) is a sheet metal guillotine(sp) if
you have access to one. The second best is to use a metal cutting
blade in a power jigsaw - practice a bit first, and for accuracy set
up a guide rail with a long spirit level or a known straight piece of
timber.
Andrew VK3BFA

 

[Tony Williams]

Nonsense-

For cutting with a guillotine or shears it used to be
a standard practice to pre-heat the phenolic sheet in
order to avoid splintered edges. I think sawing is
ok though.

 

[Boris Mohar]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

If the boards are rectangular try scoring them and than breaking them.
Next time order them scored.

--

Regards,

Boris Mohar
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
Aurora, Ontario

 

[nospam]

So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart?

If you are careful you can score them with a tile cutter (Plastic handle
with a small and very hard chisel type bit).

You need a decent straight edge to score against and preferably some way of
clamping it to the work.

Score both sides then snap the PCBs apart, the edges will be a bit furry
but clean up quite easily.

 

[Terry J. Ilardi]

I use a 2" diamond circular blade on a table-mounted saw, but beware that
blade cost a bit more than a Drehmel.

ciao Ban

I use one of those inexpensive 4 inch diamond wet tile saws available at
all home centers. I use it dry, it works extremely well on PCBs (as
well as tile). The blades are available separately and are not terribly
expensive (under 50 USD) but I don't recall if they fit a standard table
saw arbor.

Terry Ilardi

 

[Leon Heller]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized [...]
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently [...] ?

I've heard it's easier to shear them if you heat them up first. Never tried
it myself (yet).

I think that applies to SRBP boards, not fibreglass.

Leon

 

[Chris Carlen]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

At home I have a Bosch jig saw, for which one can obtain a little table
accessory. Using the metal cutting "bimetal" blades, they can go
through a lot of PCB before dulling. Woodcutting blades will be ground
to nothing in just a few cm.

For the ultimate in manual PCB cutting, you want this:

http://www.micromark.com

I have the table saw in the middle of the page here at work. With a
carbide blade and the rip fence you can cut perfectly straight and
square on PCBs, and after a few years, I have yet to notice any
degradation of my blade.

Good day!


--
_______________________________________________________________________
Christopher R. Carlen
Principal Laser/Optical Technologist
Sandia National Laboratories CA USA
[email protected] -- NOTE: Remove "BOGUS" from email address to reply.

 

[Michael]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

I cut up panels with my Makita plunge router, straightedge, clamps, and
a straight carbide cutter. Definitely wear a snug fitting dust mask. I
prefer a cartridge-type vapor mask, myself.

 

[Sean Mathias]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch
of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?
JDG

From what I have seen and heard, a sheet metal guillotine is the way
to go. However, as they are pretty expensive, I spent $45 on a good
paper cutter (the type with the hand operated shear) and get pretty
acceptable results, especially if you left yourself as much space for
cutting as you mentioned.

SM

 

[Jem Berkes]

As immediaate solution I'd use a metal hand saw with a 30cm(15") long

blade, approx 1cm deep and 0.7mm wide. Those with a bow around them.

This is what I use (cost $20 at Home Depot) to cut PCBs. It is rather slow,
but it does get through and the edges can be cleaned up afterwards.

 

[Rileyesi]

I ordered a bunch of PCBs awhile back and had them panelized to save a bunch

of $$$, one set has 49 (7x7) boards per panel, the other has 28 (14x2)
boards per panel, and I've got 20 of each of the panels, standard FR4 1/16"
thick types. Now I see why they charge so much to route them out. I bought
a good dremel and some good cutoff wheels, hand gets really tired after a
few cuts, although the wheels do last for awhile. Then I bought a good
Black&Decker 16" variable speed scroll saw. Tried rough blades, fine
blades, high speed, slow speed, various combinations, etc.etc. Those PCB's
really chew up the blades! One blade is completely flat, couldn't cut warm
butter with it.
When I designed the boards, I gave myself a solid 1/8" between PCB's, and
actually a bit more than that, to cut the boards apart.
So, any good ideas on how to cut them apart efficiently short of sending
them somewhere to get them cut apart? And if no good ideas, any ideas where
I could send them to get them cut up?

Use the 'bast' saw you have available to you and then use a belt sander to
smooth the rough edges.

Personally, I've found a shear to be the best, if you can find one wide enough.

 

[Jeremy D. Grotte]

Are you talking about those 'big' paper cutters? The type with the big arm
on the right side, swings up about 40 some-odd degrees, big sharp blade on
the bottom, relatively heavy duty? I didn't think of that. And really I
wouldn't think that would cut thru it. I'll give it a try. I gave myself
10% of the total as waste, to cover my screwups, guess I may as well make
use of that 10%...
JDG