Wow! Serendipity strikes again. I spent years standing too close to the stage listening to rock music, and years after that blasting it into headphones. As a result I have suffered some hearing loss in both ears. Not enough to make me plunk down big bucks for hearing aids, but enough to almost completely destroy my previously excellent ability to localize sounds.
This was demonstrated most recently after I cooked some rib-eye steaks under the broiler in my gas oven. There was a pan under the steaks to catch the fat drippings of course. After removing the steaks I thought nothing more about the fat, but it almost immediately ignited from the draft created by opening the oven door. So, I quickly closed the door and the fire immediately went out. Not soon enough to prevent the built-in oven smake detector going off and shutting down the oven. None of the controls worked until after I pulled the plug (for the electronics) and re-inserted it in the wall socket.
But that wasn't the end of it. There were enough combustion products released to activate a smoke alarm somewhere in the house. I spent several minutes trying to locate the smoke alarm without success. The pitch is high enough that constructive and destructive sound interference occurs with the apparent source moving depending on which way my head was turned and where I was standing in the room.
Eventually I gave up and opened the window in the room housing the smoke detector. The fresh air draft immediately silenced the alarm, so I gave up looking for it, closed the window, and went on to eat my steak dinner. I still don't know where that darned smoke alarm is. What I do know is it has another feature that is even more annoying. When the 9V battery becomes nearly exhausted, another circuit kicks in to make the Evilalarm issue a single beep about once every minute or so. Sounds about like a cricket. Almost impossible to locate by the sound. Who woulda thunk someone would turn this into an annoying toy!? But unlike a real smoke alarm, small enough to hide under a desk or chair with the aid of a small neodymium rare-earth magnet. Yikes!
I've never actually tried to use a MOSFET as a variable resistor. I have this "gut" feeling that the transfer function of gate-to-source voltage versus channel resistance would not be all that easy to control. High-current MOSFETs can have very low "on" resistances, on the order of a tenth of an ohm, so they don't dissipate much power when fully on. The off resistance is very high because the conduction channel is pinched off. So you go from what is essentially an open-circuit (off) to essentially a short-circuit (on) with only a few volts change in gate-to-source voltage. Good luck making that behave like a linear variable resistor.
Negative feedback can change all this by making the gate voltage a function of the source current. Also, some PWM integrated circuits do negative feedback, sampling the MOSFET source current through a low-valued resistor and using those samples to control the pulse-width. This seems to be a popular way to drive stepper motors, using a higher than steady-state rated voltage and controlling the average current through low-resistance motor coils. That allows you have your torque without dissipating a lot of power. If you were to apply the elevated voltage to the coils directly it would burn them out. PWM allows the motor coils to be excited with high-frequency pulses occurring much faster than the actual multi-phase (usually quadrature) step pulses. That, in turn, allows the integrated circuit to micro-step the motor. See for example
this datasheet for the Texas Instruments DRV8711 stepper motor controller. I plan to use this puppy to remotely control the tuning capacitor mounted on my magnetic loop amateur radio antenna. Of course I could use a geared DC motor (as many amateurs do), but where's the fun in that?
On controlling and using the LT3092:
There are at least three ways to apply the 0 to 1 V control voltage. (1) Use a PWM signal from an Arduino output and scale and filter it with an RC network to provide 0 to 1 V DC. (2) Design an N-bit R-2R ladder network controlled by N-bits of digital output from the Arduino. There are R-2R ladder network components available for this. (3) Add an external Arduino "shield" containing a DAC, such as this
Maxim MAX5214 which uses a SPI interface, so it is compatible with and can be daisy-chained with your LCD display. I would personally opt for the PWM approach since all you need are two resistors (one of which is variable) for scaling and a capacitor for DC filtering. You might even be able to get by with a single potentiometer and a capacitor.
As for working with "itsy bitsy teeny weeny" microscopic integrated circuits... learn to work with them! Surface-mount is the 21st Century whereas through-hole mount is 20th Century technology.
Yeah, I know, you need a lot of expensive tools... NOT! You need a tiny 1mm conical soldering iron tip for your 30 watt soldering pencil. Put that Weller 200 watt soldering gun back on the shelf. Get some 60/40 solder paste in a syringe with a hypodermic needle; a good 4 to 10 diopter magnifying head-set; some nice tweezers, a roll of very fine 60/40 solder; some solder flux in a syringe with a hypodermic needle; a cup-cake pan to keep all the tiny parts separated; some fine-braid solder-wick; and a somewhat steady hand (but not as steady as you might think), Except for the steady hand, all this might set you back fifty bucks. Oh, and you need a quiet place to work undisturbed without interruptions... a place you can walk away from and come back to and find nothing has been touched.
Most surface-mount components can be re-flow soldered from solder previously placed on the board pads, either by the board manufacturer or by you. Once you have one pin, or two corner pins, tacked down it's a cinch to re-flow solder the remaining pins. For very fine pitches that are found on larger integrated circuits, you just wipe the solder across the row of pins with your soldering iron tip and let the surface tension of the molten solder do the rest. Sometimes you have to go back with some fine solder-wick to remove solder bridges, but that's not a big deal either. Helps to practice on junk boards before moving on to something serious. Rip open any modern works-until-it-doesn't, throw-away because it costs more to repair than to buy a new one, POS electronics for practice. If you shop Wally World you can probably afford to buy new junk to rip open and practice on.
To place parts on a board, just apply a little liquid flux to the pad and stick the part into the flux. Re-heat the device terminal with your soldering iron tip to melt the solder already on the pad and allow it to re-flow up to the device terminal. Voila! Your first connection! The LT3092 comes in an SO-223 package that is pretty easy to solder because the output "pins" are connected together to a single tab on one side. The input and set pins are placed on opposite ends of the other side with another out connection in between. Easy-peasy to surface mount with just a little practice.
I avoided SMD components until last year, when i took the plunge with some PIC10F200 type microprocessors. These also happen to be available in 8-pin DIP versions, but I didn't know that when I purchased them. So, I also ordered some 6-pin SO-23 to 8-pin DIP circuit boards that allowed me to re-flow solder the PIC to the circuit board, solder pin-terminals to the 8-pin DIP connections, and plug the whole thing into a bread-board as if it were a through-hole component. These "adapter boards" are readily available for prototyping, and you could even use them on a printed circuit board (PCB) with through-holes if you are willing to give up the size advantage afforded by the SMD package. However, once you get your feet wet, you will never want to go back to through-hole construction again. Well, almost never. Some parts need big wire connections.
Hop